what's eric eating episode 263
Houston restaurant prince dishes on his new Midtown eatery and his truffle Twinkies
On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef David Cordúa joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss The Lymbar, his Latin Mediterranean bar and restaurant that just opened in Midtown’s the Ion development.
Best known for working alongside his father Michael at Cordúa Restaurants, the Houston restaurant group behind South American concepts Churrascos and Americas, The Lymbar is David Cordúa's reentry into the world of Houston restaurants. The interview opens with the chef discussing his roots in the business and how, four years after parting ways with his former employer, he came to open his first solo project at the Ion.
The Lymbar’s eclectic menu might surprise diners who only know Cordúa for signature items like the churrasco and tres leches. While both of those dishes are on the menu, they’re joined by items such as a chicken balontine that pays homage to his childhood, taco platters that nod to his wife’s Lebanese-Mexican heritage, and the truffle Twinkies that he created to win the first Truffle Masters chef competition. Sandler asks Cordua to explain the reasoning behind such a diverse menu.
“I think the first step towards cooking well is you need to serve things that you are into. That’s the only way that hospitality comes through in an authentic way,” he says. “It’s frankly the only way you’re going to give it care and attention. You have to fall in love with it first. That needs to be the overall impetus. ‘I am so into this, and I know you will be, too.’”
Listen to the full interview to hear the chef describe his experience working with designer Gin Braverman to bring The Lymbar to life. He also shares some thoughts on the restaurant’s extensive cocktail program and explains his goals for its first year of operations.
Prior to the interview, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: Cafe Louie’s transformation into Louie’s Italian American; Austin pizzeria Via 313 revealing its first Houston-area location; and the opening of Austin pizzeria Home Slice in Midtown.
In the restaurants of the week segment, Clarkson and Sandler share their first impressions of Navy Blue, the new seafood restaurant in Rice Village from the team behind Bludorn. They also discuss a recent meal at Zanti Cucina Italiana, describing both the dining experience and how it fits into River Oaks.