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    what's eric eating episode 263

    Houston restaurant prince dishes on his new Midtown eatery and his truffle Twinkies

    CultureMap Staff
    Dec 15, 2022 | 1:15 pm
    The Lymbar David Cordua

    Chef David Cordua is this week's guest.

    Photo by Dylan McEwan

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef David Cordúa joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss The Lymbar, his Latin Mediterranean bar and restaurant that just opened in Midtown’s the Ion development.



    Best known for working alongside his father Michael at Cordúa Restaurants, the Houston restaurant group behind South American concepts Churrascos and Americas, The Lymbar is David Cordúa's reentry into the world of Houston restaurants. The interview opens with the chef discussing his roots in the business and how, four years after parting ways with his former employer, he came to open his first solo project at the Ion.

    The Lymbar’s eclectic menu might surprise diners who only know Cordúa for signature items like the churrasco and tres leches. While both of those dishes are on the menu, they’re joined by items such as a chicken balontine that pays homage to his childhood, taco platters that nod to his wife’s Lebanese-Mexican heritage, and the truffle Twinkies that he created to win the first Truffle Masters chef competition. Sandler asks Cordua to explain the reasoning behind such a diverse menu.

    “I think the first step towards cooking well is you need to serve things that you are into. That’s the only way that hospitality comes through in an authentic way,” he says. “It’s frankly the only way you’re going to give it care and attention. You have to fall in love with it first. That needs to be the overall impetus. ‘I am so into this, and I know you will be, too.’”

    Listen to the full interview to hear the chef describe his experience working with designer Gin Braverman to bring The Lymbar to life. He also shares some thoughts on the restaurant’s extensive cocktail program and explains his goals for its first year of operations.

    Prior to the interview, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: Cafe Louie’s transformation into Louie’s Italian American; Austin pizzeria Via 313 revealing its first Houston-area location; and the opening of Austin pizzeria Home Slice in Midtown.

    In the restaurants of the week segment, Clarkson and Sandler share their first impressions of Navy Blue, the new seafood restaurant in Rice Village from the team behind Bludorn. They also discuss a recent meal at Zanti Cucina Italiana, describing both the dining experience and how it fits into River Oaks.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturday at noon on ESPN 97.5.

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    Bernadine's Revived?

    Houston chef takes flight with new Gulf Coast seafood spot in the Heights

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 4, 2026 | 9:01 am
    Southern Smoke Festival 2022 Graham Laborde Paige Gallaspy Laborde
    Photo by Emily Jaschke
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    Everything old is new again for Graham Laborde. The chef, a co-owner of Midtown sandwich favorite Winnie’s, will open a new, Gulf Coast-inspired seafood restaurant in the Heights called Little Bird.

    If that sounds familiar, it’s because Laborde once led Bernadine’s, a “love letter” to Gulf Coast cuisine that operated in the Heights from 2015 until 2017. While Little Bird is a distinct restaurant with its own identity, diners with a long enough memory will certainly see some commonalities between the two restaurants.

    “I’m a firm believer in playing to my strengths, I don’t think any of the cooking I’ve done either at Bernadine’s or Winnie’s or Little Bird, which you’ll soon see, does anything but play to my strengths,” Laborde tells CultureMap. You can’t change who you are. This is the cuisine I know and love. It’s what I’m best at. I’m excited to do it.”

    Laborde has claimed the former Flying Fish/The Kid space (1815 N. Durham) for Little Bird, which is just around the corner from where Bernadine’s used to be (it’s now Star Rover). Plans call for about 150 seats, private dining rooms, and an air-conditioned patio. Details include a hand-carved wooden oyster bar and a mural by Houston artists Whitney Garrett-Yarbrough and Dayle Booth.

    The menu is still under development, but don’t be surprised if at least a couple of Bernadine’s dishes show up. “I’ve grown a lot over the last 10 years. I think that my style, my palate has grown a lot, too. The menu is a work in progress, but I’m excited to hammer it out,” he says.

    Adding to the “getting the band back together” vibe are some of the people helping Laborde bring Little Bird to life. Julia Doran, who served as Bernadine’s pastry chef before a length stint at Nancy’s Hustle and Tiny Champions, is consulting on the dessert program. Chelsea Thomas, formerly Bernadine’s assistant general manager, will serve as general manager at the new restaurant (full disclosure: Thomas is a regular contributor to CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast). Bartender Justin Ware, director of operations for Winnie’s, Johnny’s Gold Brick, and Starduster Lounge, will oversee Little Bird’s beverage offerings.

    The chef is excited to be back in the Heights, a neighborhood he knows well.

    “I first moved to the Heights straight from New Orleans. I noticed Heights Blvd had a middle ground. It made the transition so much easier,” Laborde says. “I’ve lived in the Heights and Garden Oaks for 16 years. It’s my home. I’m thrilled to be back here.”

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