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    And a new speakeasy

    Goode Co.'s mesquite-fired Tex-Mex restaurant coming to River Oaks in March

    Eric Sandler
    Jan 15, 2025 | 9:39 am

    Levi Goode is ready to share more details about his plans to bring Goode Co. Kitchen & Cantina to the River Oaks Shopping Center.

    As CultureMap reported in October, Goode has claimed the former La Griglia space for Kitchen & Cantina’s fourth location; it will also be home to a speakeasy-style bar called Bar Buena. With construction well underway, both the restaurant and the bar should open in March.

    [Update 3/3: The restaurant announced it will open on Wednesday, March 12. An opening date for Bar Buena has not been set.]

    The chef and restaurateur explains that part of the decision to open in River Oaks stems in part from the good-natured grief he’s been getting about the restaurant from regulars at his four establishments on Kirby Drive. They wanted to experience its food without having to drive to the Heights or Memorial.

    “Everybody is very territorial on where they live and eat,” Goode says. “I think it’s funny. I’ve been getting lots of jokes about Credence and Kitchen and Cantina, ‘Are you ever going to do this inside the loop?’ It was exciting we were able to secure a really iconic restaurant space and evolve it into Kitchen & Cantina.”

    Turning La Griglia into Kitchen & Cantina requires extensive renovations. One that people will notice immediately is that the bar has been moved back a little bit to make it easier to enter the restaurant. A large tree in the middle of the dining room will emphasize its high ceilings.

    One element that will remain are the concrete pavers that local celebrities signed when the restaurant opened. Its a nod to the space’s history and as well as a bygone era of Houston restaurants.

    Just as Credence’s speakeasy Sidebar has a distinct feel from the main restaurant, Bar Buena will have a difference environment than Kitchen & Cantina. Occupying La Griglia’s former private dining room, the bar takes inspiration from Goode’s extensive travels throughout Mexico, including to places like Jalisco and Oaxaca.

    “Bar Buena is going to be a bit more refined than what we’ve done at Kitchen and Cantina,” he says. “If it’s ranch-inspired, very Texas-Mexican frontera, you’re going to get more a polished finish at Bar Buena. It’s a small space, very intimate. A place where we’ll be well suited for great hospitality with small bites, great cocktails, and tastings of agave-based spirits.”

    Of course, the food menu will be familiar to anyone who’s dined at Kitchen & Cantina’s existing locations. Like all Goode Co. restaurants, it features meats grilled on mesquite. Expect favorites such as fajitas, redfish on the half shell, carnitas, and campechana along with an extensive selection of agave-based cocktails.

    Goode Co Kitchen & Cantina fajitas

    Courtesy of Goode Co. Restaurants

    Goode Co. is bringing its mesquite-grilled fajitas to River Oaks.

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    truffle masters recap

    Street corn shines at Houston's truffle-powered chef competition

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 12, 2026 | 5:32 pm
    Truffle Masters 2026
    Photo by Daniel Ortiz
    Marcus Benedict, Daniella Johner, and chef Luis Roger of MAD and BCN.

    One of Houston’s top Mexican restaurants took the top prize at this year’s Truffle Masters competition. Victoria Elizondo, chef-owner of Cochinita & Co., bested 24 other Houston chefs with Elotitos, corn brushed with chiltepin aioli, dusted with seven chile spice, and finished with shaved truffles and Parmesan.

    “The team killed it last night,” Elizondo wrote on Instagram. “We won 1st place at @thetrufflemasters all while having fun and cooking with love! Food doesn’t need to be fancy, it just needs to be made with corazón!”

    The attention couldn’t have come at a better time. As CultureMap reported last month, Cochinita & Co. is currently in the process of opening a second location in Lindale Park. Customers can invest in the project via the NuMarket platform in exchange for credits at the restaurant.

    Second prize went to Camaraderie in the Heights for its black sesame and black truffle gelato, while Cocody, a French restaurant in River Oaks, took third place for its truffle-shaped Lollys Persillade Escargot Cromesquis, essentially an escargot lollypop with with black truffle and quail egg in the middle.

    Montrose sushi restaurant Soto won People’s Choice with its Engawa fin muscle with truffle balsamic unagi sauce, kizami, and chocolate black truffle masago arare. Aniket Bhingare, a bartender at Michelin-starred restaurant Musaafer, won the cocktail competition with his Pour Me a Slice, made with truffle and herb-infused and a clarified mix of roma tomatoes, fresh basil, oregano, basil, and truffle oil.

    Other standout dishes included a Yukon Gold potato with truffle brown butter from Michelin-recognized sushi restaurant Hidden Omakase, truffle s’mores from Israeli-inspired steakhouse Doris Metropolitan, beef tartare and truffle ice cream from fine dining sushi restaurant Katami, and Credence’s truffle duck sausage with plums and truffles. Maximo, a Mexican restaurant in West U., maximized (sorry) its truffle usage with a Cachetada de Barbacoa Taco, made with nixtamalized truffle tortilla, truffle-braised barbacoa, and sottocenere al tartufo cheese with black garlic-habanero salsa

    More than 350 attended the sold-out affair, which took place at the Astorian events space in Sawyer Yards. The judging panel include both media members (such as this author) and hospitality pros. A portion of proceeds will be donated to the KNOWAutism Foundation.

    Truffle Masters 2026

    Photo by Daniel Ortiz

    Marcus Benedict, Daniella Johner, and chef Luis Roger of MAD and BCN.

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