a new chapter
Houston's shuttered kosher steakhouse reopens as a non-kosher neighborhood grill
Owner Jason Goldstein, chef Arturo Macias, and general manager David Tenorio are ready to welcome diners to Exodus Bar and Grill.
Jason Goldstein is leaving the world of kosher restaurants behind. Although his Meyerland restaurant Genesis Steakhouse & Wine Bar closed on April 30, its space won’t stay empty for long.
In its place, Goldstein will open a new restaurant called Exodus Bar and Grill. The name has two meanings. First, Exodus is the book that comes after Genesis in the Jewish Torah (aka, the Old Testament). Second, it’s a not-so-subtle poke at the Houston Kashruth Association (HKA), the organization that, in Goldstein’s opinion, forced the closure of Genesis when it removed the restaurant’s kosher certification in January. Unlike Genesis, Exodus will not be a kosher restaurant.
“It’s very much like Houston’s. A lot of the idea comes from Houston’s. A nice establishment that caters to the masses,” Goldstein tells CultureMap about Exodus. “People in the neighborhood want a nice restaurant they can go to with good service and good ambiance.”
When Genesis lost its kosher certification, the six Orthodox Jewish rabbis who make up Houston’s Vaad Harabanim urged their congregants not to dine at the restaurant, as it no longer met their standards for being in compliance with Jewish dietary laws. While it’s likely those very religious people won’t dine at Exodus, Goldstein thinks the new concept will appeal to both less traditionally observant Jews who worship at nearby synagogues and residents of neighborhoods like Bellaire, Meyerland, and Westbury who don’t want to leave the area to get a good meal in a nice environment.
Operating as a non-kosher restaurant comes with some notable advantages compared to operating a kosher establishment. Most importantly, the restaurant will be open on Friday nights and during the day on Saturday, which is strictly forbidden by the HKA. In addition, non-kosher meat is less expensive than kosher meat, which means Exodus’ menu will offer a lower price point than Genesis did. Exodus will be able to serve dishes that mix meat and dairy such as a chicken alfredo pasta, a cheeseburger, or even something as simple as mashed potatoes with butter. Finally, it will also serve non-kosher ingredients like shrimp and other shellfish.
Indeed, a draft menu Goldstein shared with CultureMap shows how Exodus will take advantage of those opportunities. Tentative menu items include fried calamari; blackened redfish with shrimp; gumbo with shrimp, chicken, and beef sausage; and a burger topped with mushrooms and Swiss cheese. None of them would have been allowed at Genesis.
Certain staples of the Genesis menu will remain. For example, Exodus will serve all of the sushi items that Genesis did. In addition, the old restaurant’s ribeye and beef short ribs will be available at Exodus.
Jewish diners who prefer a kosher steak or kosher chicken will still be able to get it at Exodus for an additional fee. Goldstein says those items will be cooked in separate pans and served on different plates with different utensils than non-kosher dishes. Since some kosher mindful Jewish people already follow those standards at other restaurants, Goldstein thinks they’ll appreciate being able to dine that way at Exodus.
Kenny & Ziggy’s owner Ziggy Gruber has been an outspoken supporter of Genesis throughout its dispute with the HKA. He’s feeling optimistic about Exodus’ potential to connect with diners.
“There is a lack of casual, family type of neighborhood joint over here,” Gruber says. “I don’t think that it’s a bad idea. On the weekends and at night, he’ll do well. You and I know Yiddishe people like to eat. If they like the food, they'll patronize his establishment.”
Goldstein expects to be closed for a week or so while he makes some interior changes to distinguish Exodus from Genesis. Initially, the restaurant will operate with the same menu at lunch and dinner, and Goldstein plans to add weekend brunch once Exodus has established itself.
“We’ll start with one menu, execute it, and go from there. We can’t all be 20 pages like Ziggy’s menu,” he says with a laugh.
Located at 80 Braeswood Square, Exodus Bar and Grill will open at 11:30 am Monday-Friday; 4 pm on Saturday; and 1 pm on Sunday. Brunch hours will be announced in the future.
