where's eric eating

CultureMap editor's 10 favorite dishes at Houston restaurants in November

November’s dining adventures across Houston consisted of only a couple of new restaurants, an upscale, contemporary Chinese restaurant in River Oaks; an ambitious neighborhood eatery in Garden Oaks; and a buzzy barbecue spot on the border of Conroe and The Woodlands.

The month also provided me with an opportunity to visit a veteran chef in his new home, catch up one of the city’s new additions to the Michelin Guide, and sample a po’ boy from the rising star chef behind Houston’s hottest new burger joint.

As a reminder, this list isn’t ranked. I liked all of these dishes for different reasons.

Here are my favorite dishes I ate at Houston-area restaurants in November.

Lobster Fettuccine at State of Grace
Chef Ryan Lachaine is off to a strong start as the executive chef of the River Oaks restaurant. The lobster fettuccine — pasta made in-house, of course — features a generous portion of seafood along with a lobster-infused sauce americane. In addition to a couple of Riel favorites, the caviar tots and the butter burgers, he’s also introduced a cheese fondue that matches the menu’s Continental-influenced, retro vibe.

Birria Beef Pacchei at Lazy Lane
The newly opened Garden Oaks restaurant is putting a Houston spin on classic Mediterranean dishes. In this entree, house made pasta is paired with braised beef cheek, radishes, salsa verde, and herbs, turning the building blocks of barbacoa tacos into a form that fits the ambitious neighborhood restaurant. Other highlights from the meal included Spanish meatballs and crispy skin ocean trout over beet risotto.

Deviled Crab at Credence
One of the 14 Houston restaurants added to the Michelin Guide for 2025, the live fire restaurant near Memorial City Mall serves this dish instead of a crab cake. Blue crab meat gets sauteed in smoky tomato butter for a bite that’s sweet, smoky, and satisfying. Pair it with the grilled snapper for the full Gulf Coast seafood experience.

Peking Duck at Maison Chinoise
This contemporary Chinese restaurant from the company behind Toulouse and Lombardi Cucina Italiana is already winning fans in River Oaks. The Peking duck, a speciality of chef Jordan He, delivers tender meat, crispy skin, and paper-thin crepes that are worthy of any version served around town. Pair it with some of the restaurant’s extensive dumpling selection for the full experience.

Branzino at Okto
Chef Yotam Dolev recently updated the menu at this Mediterranean-influenced Montrose restaurant. Seared to achieve a crispy skin, the flakey white fish sits in a tomato-gazpacho broth with fennel and olives. Don’t miss the signature frena bread and Greek salad.

Shrimp Po’ Boy at Boo’s Burgers
One perk of moving from pop-up to brick-and-mortar is that it allows Boo’s Burgers chef-owner Joseph Boudreaux to indulge creative impulses such as a rotating Friday fish special that’s currently this sandwich. Loaded with a generous serving of crispy, well-fried shrimp, the sandwich is simply dressed shredded lettuce, tomato, and the chef’s smoky burger sauce. Get it before Boudreaux moves on to another special.

Veal Piccata at Fielding’s River Oaks
The River Oaks restaurants is fond of fusion flavors, and its take on veal piccata is no exception. Instead of the usual lemon-caper sauce, Fielding’s serves its veal in a richer mushroom cream sauce with fall-friendly caramelized apples and creamed spinach. It’s a heartier take on the classic that’s well-suited to winter’s recent arrival.

Barbecue at Charm Taphouse & BBQ
Thai fare meets Texas at this restaurant on the border of The Woodlands and Tomball. The house made sausages are a standout, particularly the beef-and-basil and German hotlink, particularly when dipped in the restaurant’s tangy nam jim jaew. While the brisket and ribs could’ve used a little longer in the smoking, a weekend prime rib special with a crispy crust and well-rendered fat already has me contemplating a return visit.

Shrimp Tacos at Cochinita & Co.
At this restaurant in the East End, plump shrimp are paired with a sweet and spicy pineapple pico and a morita aioli, then wrapped in house made corn tortillas. Good ingredients and precise execution — the shrimp are cooked gently enough to retain a springy texture and mild sweetness — make them some of my favorite tacos in Houston. A side of the vegetarian black beans make for a tasty companion.

Tonkotsu Gachi at Japanese Ramen Gachi
Influenced by Shawn the Food Sheep, I visited the two-year-old Med Center-area restaurant for dinner. The signature tonkotsu features a well-seasoned, milk-colored broth with deep pork flavor and major umami punch. Paired with some karaage it made for a very satisfying dinner — just be aware that the Food Sheep’s flock may overwhelm the restaurant’s ability to serve diners quickly.

Photo by Eric Sandler

Try the sausages at Charm Taphouse & BBQ.

news-you-can-eat

two great tastes

Collaborative cookie bakery and ice cream shop spin up new Meyerland spot

Pudgy's Fine Cookies Underground Creamery Van Teamer Josh DeLeon

Photo by Emily Walling

Van Teamer and Josh DeLeon are coming to Meyerland.

Two of Houston’s foremost purveyors of sweet treats are adding a second location. Pudgy’s Fine Cookies and Underground Creamery are coming to Meyerland.

Scheduled to open in August, the combined cookie bakery and ice cream shop will be located in the Meyerland Court shopping center (4798 Beechnut St.). The location will serve the thick, chewy cookies that Pudgy’s is known for alongside Underground’s first-ever soft service ice cream.

Underground Softies, as the concept is known, is a variation from the hand-packed pints that Underground Creamery sells at Pudgy’s and via its weekly drops — online sales of three or four flavors that change every week and frequently sell out in under an hour. The flavors at Underground Softies will change less frequently.

"We'll be more focused on soft serve with a less dynamic menu instead of constantly changing everything," Underground owner Josh DeLeon said in a statement. "It's going to be a challenge for me, because creating something new every week has always been part of Underground's DNA. But I'm excited to really refine this concept while still finding ways to keep things creative."

DeLeon tells CultureMap that diners will be able to add some of Underground’s signature toppings to their soft serve, including Oreo MSG (malted salted grit), Biscoff grit, sea salt, Craft Pita olive oil, and fudge. More toppings will be added once the new location is running smoothly.

Customers will also be able to purchase a limited selection of Underground pints to-go. However, the weekly drops will only be available at the Heights location.

Van Teamer founded Pudgy’s during the pandemic as an outgrowth of her passion for cookie baking. After decided a franchised cookie bakery’s products were too sweet, she developed her own recipes for cookies such as a chocolate chip (The Pudgy), the Bonanza Brulee, a cookie that combines the flavors of creme brulee and bananas Foster, and the Wild Campfire, a s’mores-inspired cookie with toasted marshmallows and chocolate chunks. Like Underground, Pudgy’s frequently serves limited-edition flavors inspired by special ingredients or the time of year.

The new location expands on the duo’s current location in the Heights that opened in 2022. During those four years, Teamer and DeLeon have deepened their professional relationship. Underground and Pudgy’s have collaborated on cookie and ice cream flavors, participated in events together, and the owners have served as an important sounding board for each other.

"It's the best of both worlds," Teamer said in a statement. "We each have our own businesses and creative freedom, but we also get to share ideas, support one another and celebrate each other's wins. Even though we're doing our own thing, we're working toward the same goal of creating a great experience for our community and helping each other succeed."

"The cross-pollination of our audiences is why we've become what we are," DeLeon added. "I truly believe our brands can stand on their own, but Van has been an incredible mentor when it comes to the business side of things. Sharing knowledge has propelled both of us faster than I ever expected."

In addition to offering soft serve, the new location will improve on the Heights in another important way. It will offer a seating area for people to enjoy their cookies and ice cream.

“Our goal is to become more connected with the community by creating a welcoming space where people can make memories, celebrate special moments and feel right at home," Teamer said.

news-you-can-eat openings desserts ice-cream