What's Eric Eating Episodes 441 and 442

Meet the chef duo behind downtown Houston's buzzy new restaurant

On the most recent episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chefs Christian Hernandez and Priscilla Trevino join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Barbacana. Recently opened in downtown, Barbacana is earning attention for Hernandez’s tasting menu, which draws inspiration from Houston’s immigrant culinary traditions.

As CultureMap reported last year, Hernandez brings extensive experience to Barbacana. His resume includes time at pioneering restaurant Oxheart, working at New York City’s Contra when it earned a Michelin star, and serving as the opening chef de cuisine for Mediterranean-inspired fine dining restaurant March. While those fine dining experiences led him to serve a tasting menu, a desire to offer diners more affordable options prompted Hernandez to serve an a la carte menu at both lunch and dinner.

One of the ways Hernandez aims for Barbacana to distinguish itself is by committing to sustainable practices. For example, Hernandez and Trevino found a way to use all of a grapefruit by making items like fruit leather and marmalade rather than just the segments.

“All of that stuff is really important for me,” Hernandez says. “To make a more sustainable, well thought out restaurant concept where we could recreate those influences and those procedures.”

Listen to the full episode to hear Trevino discuss her time at restaurants such as Bludorn and Georgia James. Hernandez also reflects on whether his experiences at Michelin-starred restaurants makes earning a star one of his aspirations for Barbacana.

Barbacana Priscilla Trevino and Christian Hernandez

Courtesy of Barbacana

Chefs Priscilla Trevino and Christian Hernandez of Barbacana.

In another recent episode, Sandler and co-host Michael Fulmer discuss some recent restaurant news. Their topics include the Houston restaurants that received semifinalist nominations for this year’s James Beard Awards; the owners of Leaf & Grain opening two new restaurants in Memorial; and Koffeteria bringing a satellite location to Spring Branch.

In the restaurant of the week segment, Fulmer and Sandler discuss their recent meals at bol and Pok Pok Po, the two new fast casual restaurants in Midtown from the chef and owners of Amrina, an Indian fine dining restaurant in The Woodlands. Tune in to hear each restaurant’s relative strengths, as well as which they’re more likely to return to first.

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One Day Only

Chef of Michelin-starred Texas BBQ joint pops up at Houston crawfish favorite

Photo by Quit Nguyen

Join Lucas McKinney for a crawfish pop-up this Sunday, May 17.

The pitmaster behind one of Texas’ Michelin-starred barbecue joints will be in Houston for a one-day-only crawfish boil. Evan LeRoy, chef and co-owner of Austin’s LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue, will be at Josephine’s this Sunday, May 17 from 2-6 pm.

Part of the restaurant’s Backyard Boil pop-up series, LeRoy and Josephine’s executive chef Lucas McKinney have collaborated on a four dishes that will be served at the pop-up, which will take place on Josephine’s patio. They are:

Smoked Crawfish Boil Sausage on a Stick: andouille flavored pork sausage with crawfish, corn, and potatoes
Brisket and Cheddar Croquettes: Chopped brisket and cheddar cheese in a creamy bechamel. Scooped, breaded in panko, and fried til crispy
Oysters on the Half Shell: Pickled Onion Mignonette, Smoked Jalapeno Salsa, Kimchi Elote
Smoked Salsa Macha with Beef Tallow: Guajillo, ancho, and arbol chiles, lime, soy, garlic, onion, pepitas, and pecans

The pop-up is part of LeRoy’s tour for his new book, New School Barbecue: Recipes for Next-Level Smoking and Grilling, which he co-wrote with Texas Monthly restaurant critic Paula Forbes. Released this week, the book contains almost 100 recipes for mains, sides, and desserts.

LeRoy & Lewis Evan Leroy ATX Evan LeRoy is coming to Houston this weekend. Photo by Briana Balducci

“Lucas asked me to participate in a crawfish boil this year, and it happened to line up with the release of the book, so I said yes,” LeRoy tells CultureMap. “The event format centers around a crawfish boil, along with some fried items and oysters, so it doesn't necessarily reflect the recipes in the book. Instead, we decided to bring a few dishes we’ve been working on over the past year or so, including the brisket and cheddar croquettes — which will definitely make it into my next cookbook.”

McKinney has already hosted pop-ups with the likes of ChòpnBlọk chef-owner Ope Amosu and Mike Pham of Trill Burgers.

“With these crawfish boils, I want each chef to bring their own perspective and let the menu reflect their personal style of cooking,” McKinney adds. “Events like this are really centered around community, collaboration, and introducing something fresh and exciting to Houston each time.”

LeRoy and Lewis has earned wide acclaim for its “new school” barbecue. In addition to being one of only four Texas barbecue joints to hold a Michelin star, it ranked No. 2 on Texas Monthly’s list of the state’s 50 best barbecue joints. McKinney began patronizing the restaurant when his friend, pitmaster Cole Parkman, worked there.

“It’s incredibly good,” McKinney says. “Eating there feels like they’re telling you, ‘I know you think you like brisket, but this is what you should really like.’ I really respect that they’ve planted their feet firmly in the ground and committed to doing things differently. It all makes so much sense — and it’s delicious.”

Reservations (free) are required to attend the Backyard Boil at Josephine’s; both 2 pm and 4 pm seatings are available. Attendees will purchase food and drinks a la carte. Josephine’s regular menu will not be available at the pop-up. Copies of New School Barbecue will also be available for purchase.

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