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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 441 and 442

    Meet the chef duo behind downtown Houston's buzzy new restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Feb 10, 2025 | 6:00 am

    On the most recent episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chefs Christian Hernandez and Priscilla Trevino join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Barbacana. Recently opened in downtown, Barbacana is earning attention for Hernandez’s tasting menu, which draws inspiration from Houston’s immigrant culinary traditions.



    As CultureMap reported last year, Hernandez brings extensive experience to Barbacana. His resume includes time at pioneering restaurant Oxheart, working at New York City’s Contra when it earned a Michelin star, and serving as the opening chef de cuisine for Mediterranean-inspired fine dining restaurant March. While those fine dining experiences led him to serve a tasting menu, a desire to offer diners more affordable options prompted Hernandez to serve an a la carte menu at both lunch and dinner.

    One of the ways Hernandez aims for Barbacana to distinguish itself is by committing to sustainable practices. For example, Hernandez and Trevino found a way to use all of a grapefruit by making items like fruit leather and marmalade rather than just the segments.

    “All of that stuff is really important for me,” Hernandez says. “To make a more sustainable, well thought out restaurant concept where we could recreate those influences and those procedures.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear Trevino discuss her time at restaurants such as Bludorn and Georgia James. Hernandez also reflects on whether his experiences at Michelin-starred restaurants makes earning a star one of his aspirations for Barbacana.

    Barbacana Priscilla Trevino and Christian Hernandez
      

    Courtesy of Barbacana

    Chefs Priscilla Trevino and Christian Hernandez of Barbacana.



    In another recent episode, Sandler and co-host Michael Fulmer discuss some recent restaurant news. Their topics include the Houston restaurants that received semifinalist nominations for this year’s James Beard Awards; the owners of Leaf & Grain opening two new restaurants in Memorial; and Koffeteria bringing a satellite location to Spring Branch.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Fulmer and Sandler discuss their recent meals at bol and Pok Pok Po, the two new fast casual restaurants in Midtown from the chef and owners of Amrina, an Indian fine dining restaurant in The Woodlands. Tune in to hear each restaurant’s relative strengths, as well as which they’re more likely to return to first.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

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    one night only

    Award-winning NYC chefs join Houston rising star for pop-up dinner

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 10, 2025 | 4:45 pm
    Barbacana restaurant interior
    Courtesy of Barbacana
    Barbacana will host the special dinner on July 22.

    One of Houston’s rising star chefs is teaming up with two of his mentors for a one-night-only experience. New York chefs Fabián von Hauske-Valtierra and Jeremiah Stone are coming to downtown restaurant Barbacana on Tuesday, July 22 for a collaboration dinner with chef-owner Christian Hernandez.


      
     
     
     
     
     
     
    View this post on Instagram
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
    A post shared by Barbacana Restaurant (@barbacanahtx)


    Stone and von Hauske-Valtierra earned a Michelin star and a Food & Wine Best New Chef award for their New York City restaurant Contra. First opened in 2013, Contra served an affordable tasting menu of dishes that could change from night to night based on available ingredients. It closed in 2023. The chefs opened a new concept called Bar Contra in 2024.

    Hernandez worked at Contra as a line cook in 2016 and 2017, which is when it first earned a Michelin star. He tells CultureMap that he turned down an offer from Eleven Madison Park, then considered one of the best restaurants in America, to cook at the smaller, more innovative Contra.

    “It really shaped everything I did afterwards,” Hernandez tells CultureMap. “Their level of creativity, their confidence and comfort with what they do — we’d change the menu every couple of days. It showed me a lot of what it takes to perform on that level consistently.”

    For the collaboration dinner, Stone and von Hauske-Valtierra will prepare three dishes alongside three dishes from Hernandez and the Barbacana team. Even though the dinner is only a couple of weeks away, Hernandez hasn’t finalized the menu yet. The plan is to shop for ingredients the day before and let them dictate what’s served.

    One possibility is a dish Hernandez is testing that’s inspired by his time at Contra. It’s a tuna crudo with seasonal melson and lacto-fermented blackberry consomme.

    “Two or three elements, simple plating — as I’ve been working on this tuna dish, I’ve been thinking about them,” he says.

    Hernandez opened Barbacana in late 2024. Located near Market Square in downtown Houston, it takes inspiration from Houston’s immigrant traditions, filtered through the chef’s work at fine dining restaurants such as Oxheart, March, and Contra.

    The six-course dinner is priced at $200 with an optional, $100 wine pairings. Reservations are available on OpenTable.

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