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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 347 and 348

    Powerhouse Texas pitmaster and prolific photographer dish on award-winning Burnt BBQ joint

    CultureMap Staff
    Feb 2, 2024 | 1:27 pm
    Robert Jacob Lerma and Ernest Servantes

    Photographer Robert Jacob Lerma and chef Ernest Servantes are this week's guests.

    Courtesy of Robert Jacob Lerma

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” Ernest Servantes and Robert Jacob Lerma join CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler in a free-flowing conversation about barbecue, whiskey, and more. Servantes is the chef-owner of Burnt Bean Company, a barbecue restaurant in Seguin, and Lerma is an award-winning photographer whose work has appeared in publications across the country.



    The two men began their friendship when Servantes was rising up the ranks of the competition barbecue circuit and Lerma was establishing his reputation as a photographer. They’ve traveled across the United States and beyond eating barbecue and teaching it to others. All of those experiences fueled Servantes’s desire to open a restaurant.

    Since Burnt Bean opened in late 2020, it has earned wide acclaim, including being ranked the fourth best barbecue joint in the state by Texas Monthly and earning a 2023 James Beard Award finalist nomination in the category of Best Chef: Texas for Servantes and his business partner David Kirkland.

    What sets Burnt Bean apart is the way Servantes blends traditional meats with sides inspired by his Mexican heritage and childhood in Uvalde, Texas. The restaurant has become known for its Sunday brunch service that features different specials every week.

    “Basically what I’m doing is inviting you to my house growing up on a Sunday morning after church. I took my grandparents' and parents' recipes and tweaked them,” Servantes says. “I gave you what I wanted you to eat. We get a lot of people who ask ‘hey, can I get [somethine else]?’ No, there’s no substitutions, other than if a kid under five wants a scrambled egg. Other than that, you’re gonna eat what I want to serve you, because you’re invited to my house.”

    “It’s Mexican soul food. It’s super loud and crazy. We call it the Mexican Waffle House. You’ve got short order cooking and the music blaring in the background. You’re eating the cuisine I was raised with. You’re eating the tacos, the huevos Rancheros. I get to do it once a week where I can really spread my culinary wings.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear the two friends discuss the current state of Texas barbecue, Servantes’ thoughts on being nominated for a James Beard Award, and Lerma’s take on the current state of Texas whiskey. The two men also share memories of John Brotherton, the popular Austin-area pitmaster who passed away last month.

    In this week’s other episode, Felice Sloan joins Sandler to discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: the 11 Houston-area chefs and restaurants who earned semifinalist nominations for the James Beard Awards; the sudden closure of Buffalo Bayou Brewing Company; and restaurateur Claire Smith’s plans to close Alice Blue at the end of February.



    In the restaurant of the week segment, they visit Tavola, the new Italian fine dining restaurant from Berg Hospitality. Listen to hear their thoughts on its transformation from La Table and which dishes they’d order again.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Sunday at 8 am on ESPN 97.5.

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    Let's a-go-go tacos

    Houston taqueria opens 2 new locations with cocktails by Anvil owner

    Eric Sandler
    Jan 29, 2026 | 12:09 pm
    Tacos A Go Go Sharon Haynes Bobby Heugel Maribel Gomez
    Photo by Dylan McEwan
    Co-owners Sharon Haynes and chef Maribel Gomez with Anvil owner Bobby Heugel.

    Residents of the Heights and Briargrove have a new options for tacos and margaritas. Tacos A Go Go has opened new locations in both neighborhoods.

    Located in the former Lola Neighborhood Diner (1102 Yale St.) and Killen’s STQ (2231 S. Voss Rd.), the two new restaurants are the first Tacos A Go Go locations to feature a full bar. Owners Sharon Haynes and Maribel Gomez turned to Anvil owner Bobby Heugel to create the cocktail program.

    “Launching a full bar felt like the natural evolution of Tacos A Go Go,” Haynes said in a statement. “We’re known for fresh, authentic flavors, and our bold, fun new cocktails and designated bar area are totally in line with that thinking. Working with Bobby Heugel meant we could bring that same care and thought to the bar, offering excellent cocktails with fresh-squeezed juices and perfectly matched spirits.”

    Heugel, along with bartenders Máté Hartai and Tyler Wang, put a Mexican spin on familiar cocktails, including the Mole Espresso Martini (vodka, espresso, coffee liqueur, and mole spices), the Frozen Mangonada (Mexican rum, mango, lime, chamoy, and chile spices), and a fresh spin on the margarita that can be enhanced with a housemade pico de gallo syrup and finished with a pico de gallo garnish.

    At 2,646 square feet, the Heights location offers more space and better parking than Tacos A Go Go’s former home on White Oak. Both new locations feature interior design by Brittany Vaughn of Garnish Designs (Milton’s, Tiny Champions) and hand-painted graphics and collages by Matt Tabor of Letterset Houston.

    The restaurants will serve Tacos A Go Go’s familiar menu. Led by chef Gomez, it includes street-style tacos with fillings such as carne guisada, pastor, picadillo, and barbacoa. In addition, the restaurant offers breakfast tacos all day and more elevated options such as grilled shrimp and smoked brisket. Non-taco options include burritos, quesadillas, and salads.

    The Heights location is open from 7 am-10 pm Sunday through Wednesday and 7 am-12 am Thursday through Saturday, while Briargrove is open daily from 7 am-10 pm. Both restaurants offer happy hour daily from 2-5 pm, including $5 margaritas.

    Tacos A Go Go Sharon Haynes Bobby Heugel Maribel Gomez

    Photo by Dylan McEwan

    Co-owners Sharon Haynes and chef Maribel Gomez with Anvil owner Bobby Heugel.

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