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    The CultureMap Interview

    10 questions for 10 years: Kata Robata chef looks back at Houston's best sushi restaurant

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 26, 2019 | 11:05 am

    Perhaps no chef in Houston has had a better 2019 than Manabu Horiuchi. Better known as Hori-san, the executive chef of Kata Robata earned chef of the year in the CultureMap Tastemaker Awards, and his restaurant celebrated its 10th anniversary with its reputation firmly established as one of the city’s top dining destinations, including being ranked eighth in CultureMap’s list of Houston’s Top 100 restaurants.

    Therefore, the time seemed ripe to catch up with the chef about his path from Japan to Houston, the evolution of Kata Robata, his affection for karaoke, and more. For a man who’s known for his calm demeanor in the kitchen, he certainly had a lot to say.

    CultureMap: How did you become interested in being a chef?

    Manabu Horiuchi: When I was six or seven years old, I started cooking with my mom. My mom was not a professional chef, but she was a chef for a retirement center. She makes great food for my family.

    She showed me her tamago, a Japanese egg omelet. She taught me two or three times, then I made it. Kata Robata’s egg omelet is still my mom’s recipe.

    CM: When did you start making sushi?

    MH: After graduating from culinary school, I moved to Tokyo. I started to work at a sushi restaurant called Sushiko Honten. That’s a very old school, used to be the number one sushi restaurant in Tokyo, before Jiro was famous.

    It takes a long time to become a sushi chef. First year, it’s dishwasher and also just cleaning the restaurant: wipe the chairs, wipe the floors, wipe the tables. Maybe cut the vegetables for the sashimi.

    CM: How long were you there before they let you cut fish?

    MH: I think it was about 15 or 16 months. I was pretty fast. Some chefs take two years. It depends on a chef’s skill.

    My boss was the judge. He said, you cut the vegetables perfectly. Let’s go to the next level, cutting fish.

    CM: You spent two years working as a private chef for the Consul-General before starting to work at Kubo’s. Why did you choose to stay in America instead of going back to Japan?

    MH: The U.S. has a lot of [opportunity]. In Japan, it takes 20 years to become a head chef. In the U.S., it’s pretty fast, maybe five or six years. Also, in Japan, people care about a person’s age. They don’t respect someone who’s 25 or 30. They respect someone who’s 40 or 50 years old.

    In this country, people are very fair. If the food is good, [they say] ‘that’s a great chef.’ It’s very fair. Doesn’t matter if someone is female or male. I thought I had a big chance.

    CM: Why did you decide to leave Kubo’s to work at Kata Robata?

    MH: It was something different. I was kind of tired of making traditional Japanese food. If wanted to do that, I would’ve gone back to Japan.

    CM: What is dish that you can serve now that people know you and trust you?

    MH: We sell shu mai. That’s not a Japanese food. It’s Chinese. When I started, if I had made Chinese food, people [would say] ‘oh, this is not a Chinese restaurant. You should not make Chinese food.’ Now, we have shu mai, people say, ‘it’s good, amazing.’ Ten years ago, I couldn’t make that style. Now, customers appreciate something out of the box.

    CM: What have you learned from working with sous chefs like Seth Siegel-Gardner?

    MH: He showed me a lot of different techniques, more European-style, that he learned from places like The Fat Duck. I learned sous vide; 10 years ago, nobody did that. We started that with Seth: liquid nitrogen, making sauces with dehydrated [ingredients]. He showed me lots of techniques.

    The gyoza with kimchi powder, we still make the same thing. Seth came after he closed The Pass & Provisions. He was still sad about it. He sat at the counter, and I made the gyoza for him. [I said], ‘Seth, eight years, still the same.’ He said, ‘long time no see, my friend.’

    CM: What would you like to see this restaurant grow and change?

    MH: I need to learn more. In Houston, there’s a new generation of chefs, like Felipe Riccio, Nick Wong. They learn techniques from Europe and New York and come to Houston. I don’t want to be stagnant.

    CM: Where are you eating now that inspires you?

    MH: Definitely, UB Preserv is interesting. Felipe Riccio [Rosie Cannonball], his food is very light; it’s not too heavy. Houston food used to be very heavy, but he’s changing that. Maybe after four or five years, I feel like he’ll be one of the top chefs in Houston.

    Luis Roger, at MAD, he’s doing things directly from Spain. I went there [recently]. I’m still full. I had brioche with foie gras, baby eel, the food was amazing.

    CM: I understand you like to sing karaoke. What’s your song?

    MH: The Beatles, ‘Yellow Submarine.’ I like to sing a song that’s fun.

    Iron Chef Morimoto came to Houston and ate at this restaurant. He enjoyed the food here. After, he asked me, let’s go to karaoke with your staff. This was four years ago. Our staff, almost half of the staff, went to Genji’s with chef Morimoto. We did karaoke in a private room.

    Chef Morimoto was standing on a chair, singing without a mic. I was singing Yellow Submarine, and chef Morimoto was super upset. [He said], ‘you’re Japanese. You should not be singing that song.’ [I said], ‘sorry, chef.’ It was funny.

    After that, I tried to learn more Japanese songs, because of what chef Morimoto said.

    ---

    Portions of this interview have been edited for length and clarity.

    Manabu Horiuchi has been Kata Robata's executive chef for 10 years.

    Manabu Horiuchi Hori-san Kata Robata
      
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Manabu Horiuchi has been Kata Robata's executive chef for 10 years.
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    Where to Eat Brunch Now

    10 Houston restaurants spicing up brunch with fresh new flavors

    Brianna Griff
    May 16, 2025 | 10:14 am
    Smoked Salmon Latke Kirsten Gilliam Okto Brunch
    Photo by Kirsten Gilliam
    Okto's newly launched brunch features fresh dishes like this smoked salmon latke.

    Houston’s weekend routine just got a jolt of new flavors. From a Peruvian-Vietnamese mash-up to a Mediterranean feast in Montrose and a seafood-driven spread in Autry Park, a wave of both new and established Houston restaurants are rolling out fresh takes on everyone's favorite weekend indulgence. Whether it’s four riffs on eggs Benedict or savoring a foie-gras macaron while being serenaded by a violin, these 10 new options are delivering bold brunches with global influences and tipsy tinctures.

    Alora Restaurant and Bar
    Located in the former Kau Ba space in Montrose, this restaurant touts itself as Houston's only Peruvian-Vietnamese restaurant. For brunch, chefs and married couple Diego Ponce and Makala Ponce have created a menu that fuses the two cuisines — think Lima Hot Chicken and Pandan French Toast ($19) with aji limo pepper balanced by the sweetness of pandan. The Bò Né ($28) is a Vietnamese twist on steak and eggs alongside Comté cheese, pate, and tomatoes, while the salmon on crispy toast ($22) is crowned with guacamole, pickled vegetables, and a passion fruit vinaigrette. Beverages include the Alora Bloody Mary ($15) with pickled quail eggs and green mango. Alora serves brunch 11 am-3 pm on weekends.

    Smoked Salmon Latke Kirsten Gilliam Okto Brunch
      

    Photo by Kirsten Gilliam

    Okto's newly launched brunch features fresh dishes like this smoked salmon latke.

    Chardon
    The Thompson Hotel's fine dining restaurant launched in February, transporting both guests and diners to France with its fare. Chardon has become a destination in its own right, and the addition of weekend brunch makes it even more appealing. Classics like Quiche Lorraine ($18) and Croque Monsieur ($32) sit on the menu alongside creations of delicate Lox et Crêpe with dill crème fraîche ($26) and the Avocado and Haricot Vert Tartine topped with a jammy soft-boiled egg ($17). The Bisous Tower ($23/person) proffers a selection of savory pastries and small bites like foie gras macarons and Texas cornbread madeleines. A violinist sets a soft soundtrack while patrons dine. Brunch is 11 am–3 pm on weekends.

    il Bracco
    The Galleria-area Italian spot just upgraded its weekend offerings with several new bites. Housemade pastries include zeppole with orange marmalade ($10), blueberry focaccia ($9), and an artichoke and arugula scone ($12). The weekend-only bucatini carbonara is now joined by shakshuka alla verde, the restaurant's riffs on eggs in purgatory ($19); frittata with with asparagus, goat cheese, tomatoes, and arugula ($17); and a mortadela sandwich on focaccia ($16). Pair them with a mimosa, espresso martini, or a breakfast martini with a little orange marmalade. Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday from 11 am-3 pm.

    Maximo
    The West U. restaurant's weekend brunch offers a range of masa-based dishes. Consider egg Benedict that swaps the traditional English muffin for masa cornbread or cinnamon-sugar coated masa waffles that are topped with cheesecake whipped cream, Japanese peanuts, and agave syrup. Huevos ahogados, drowned in green tomatillo salsa, are served with a side of corn tortillas to soak up every bite of the mushrooms, greens, and Oaxacan cheese. Pair them with cocktails such as the Java-Horchata Flip (sake, coffee liqueur, horchata, whole egg, peanut chili crisp) and the Sangria Tango (tomatillo, cucumber, coriander, green chili, with the guest’s choice of agave or Mexican gin). Brunch is served on Saturday and Sunday from 11 am-3 pm.

    Melrose
    Created by CultureMap Tastemaker Awards Chef of the Year Emmanuel Chavez, the Montrose lounge serves clever riffs on enduring brunch favorites. Options include charred tomatillo chilaquiles with poached eggs, an acai bowl served in a half coconut, hanger steak with eggs and chimichurri, and a breakfast sandwich made with scrambled eggs, cheese, and brown sugar-roasted “billionaire’s bacon” on a brioche bun. The Melrose Tower channels New York's iconic Sadelle's restaurant with its house-cured lox, mini bagels, chive cream cheese, and accoutrements. Drink options include a spritz, Bloody Mary, and a michelada verde made with tomatillo juice. Brunch is served on Sunday from 11 am-3 pm.

    MF Lobster and Seafood
    The weekend spread at this Autry Park destination aims to elevate Houston’s brunch offerings. Think Benedicts made with silky hollandaise cascading over lobster, braised bacon, pork belly, or classic Canadian bacon (yes, that’s four varieties of the dish). The indulgence continues with wagyu steak and eggs, buttery Maine lobster popovers, and bagels and lox featuring Ora King salmon and roe. For the sweet tooth, choose a brioche pain perdu with caramelized apples and whipped maple mascarpone, or end the meal with a dark chocolate pot de crème. MF Lobster and Seafood serves brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 11 am-2:30 pm.

    Okto
    Sof Hospitality’s Mediterranean restaurant kicks off Sunday with a late-morning feast of fresh flavors such as pan con tomate salad with grilled sourdough and bruleed burrata ($20) and the rich notes of the beet-cured lox atop a potato apple latke ($22). Other highlights include an omelet with blue crab and mascarpone ($24) and a crepe Suzette ($16) accentuated with Grand Marnier, candied orange, and whipped ricotta. Okto’s spot at the trendy Montrose Collective boasts a spacious patio and ample underground parking (or valet). Brunch is served Sunday from 11 am-4 pm at Okto.

    Relish Restaurant and Bar
    The second outpost of this River Oaks staple opened in Memorial’s Town and Country Village at the end of 2024, but only added brunch to its repertoire at the end of April. Flaky herb biscuits ($9), buttermilk pancakes topped with brandied pecans ($15), and a salmon citrus salad with champagne vinaigrette ($24) are just a few of the dishes available. The Italian baked eggs ($18) in a pomodoro sauce with Italian sausage and grilled sourdough is a highlight of the menu. Diners can take advantage of all-day happy hour deals on select cocktails, beer, and wine, with a full espresso bar for those abstaining or still recovering from the previous night’s festivities. Relish serves brunch from 10 am-3 pm on weekends.

    Santé Lounge
    The Upper Kirby lounge’s patio is sure to be a destination for the posh set this summer. Santé's Sunday Funday Brunch features an elevated twist on classics like Dubai chocolate croissants, the grilled-to-order Santé burger with brioche, and a platter laden with five chilled seafood preparations. Patrons can listen as a live DJ spins tunes while relaxing on the patio with its cabanas, chandeliers, and greenery. Order the deviled egg trio (Nashville hot chicken, Tobiko caviar, and ramen egg) and sangria (with white or red wine) for the table. Brunch at Santé is from 12 pm-4 pm on Sunday, with a required dress code.

    Traveler’s Cart
    The Street Market Brunch is an international affair with cinnamon-dusted Morning Churros ($8), Chinese breakfast dumplings ($12) paired with a sambal-oyster-soy sauce, and charming fish-shaped Japanese taiyaki waffles ($9) with yuzu custard filling. Or dig into Turkish cilibir eggs ($15) seasoned with Aleppo pepper, smoked paprika, and za’atar oil. The global tour continues at the bar with "around-the-world" mimosas, a build-your-own Bloody Mary cart, and Don’t Stop the Carnival ($13), a punchy Brazilian coffee cocktail of rum, sweetened condensed milk, and toasted coconut. Traveler’s Cart serves brunch from 10 am-3 pm on Saturday and Sunday.

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