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    Lendo a Hando

    Japanese restaurant with Nobu cred rolls out sushi's hippest trend in The Heights

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 18, 2019 | 4:00 pm

    Sushi hand rolls have arrived in The Heights. Hando, a new restaurant dedicated to temaki, opened for lunch and dinner on Wednesday, December 18.

    Only 22-seats, all of Hando's seating is around one central counter that was designed by local firm JT Arc Studio and built by Construction Concepts. From their perch, diners can watch chef Man Nguyen and his team prepare the rolls; another section is devoted to the bar, which features cocktails alongside a selection of Japanese whisky.

    The ordering process is relatively straightforward. Diners select from a menu of 12 hand rolls — selections include salmon, tuna, yellowtail, and a housemade beef spam musubi — or they may opt for a preset selection of three, four, or five rolls. In order to ensure the nori wrapper stays crispy, rolls are prepared and served individually; diners are encouraged to eat them quickly, before the nori becomes chewy. Prices range from $4 for a cucumber roll to $8.50 for either toro or lobster.

    In addition to hand rolls, Hando (pronounced Han-dough) serves small plates such as Brussels sprouts, miso soup, and a version of chips and dip made with sesame crackers and an edamame-avocado spread. They're prepared by sous chef Michael Fee, who worked with Nguyen at Nobu Houston.

    Hando owner Jason Andaya returned to his hometown after time spent working for Marriott International and a restaurant group in Los Angeles; this restaurant is the first concept from his new company, Family Meal Group. During an interview on the What's Eric Eating podcast, Nguyen explained why he chose to focus on hand rolls rather than other types of sushi.

    "For me, hand rolls are a completely different experience. The way we will serve them is they'll be coursed-out throughout the meal. If you order five, you would only have one in front of you each time, and the sushi chef would deliver the next one when you're done," Andaya says. "This way, you're guaranteed the freshest product possible. The seaweed stays crispy, the rice is a little bit warm, and the protein isn't sitting at room temperature on your plate."

    Hando is the second restaurant devoted to temaki to open in The Heights this month. Handies Douzo, a new concept from Kokoro chefs Patrick Pham and Daniel Lee, opened a couple of weeks ago. While both restaurants will likely evolve over time, Hando currently sets itself apart with a larger selection of hand rolls, serving hot appetizers, and a full liquor license (Handies is currently BYOB but will eventually serve beer, wine, and sake).

    -----

    Hando; 518 W 11th St.; Sunday - Thursday, 11 am - 10 pm; Friday and Saturday 11 am - 11 pm; 713-393-7425; no cash accepted.

    Hando tuna hand roll
    Photo by Al Torres Photography
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    where's eric eating

    CultureMap editor's 10 favorite dishes at Houston restaurants in November

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 2, 2025 | 5:13 pm
    Charm Taphouse & BBQ
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Try the sausages at Charm Taphouse & BBQ.

    November’s dining adventures across Houston consisted of only a couple of new restaurants, an upscale, contemporary Chinese restaurant in River Oaks; an ambitious neighborhood eatery in Garden Oaks; and a buzzy barbecue spot on the border of Conroe and The Woodlands.

    The month also provided me with an opportunity to visit a veteran chef in his new home, catch up one of the city’s new additions to the Michelin Guide, and sample a po’ boy from the rising star chef behind Houston’s hottest new burger joint.

    As a reminder, this list isn’t ranked. I liked all of these dishes for different reasons.

    Here are my favorite dishes I ate at Houston-area restaurants in November.

    Lobster Fettuccine at State of Grace
    Chef Ryan Lachaine is off to a strong start as the executive chef of the River Oaks restaurant. The lobster fettuccine — pasta made in-house, of course — features a generous portion of seafood along with a lobster-infused sauce americane. In addition to a couple of Riel favorites, the caviar tots and the butter burgers, he’s also introduced a cheese fondue that matches the menu’s Continental-influenced, retro vibe.

    Birria Beef Pacchei at Lazy Lane
    The newly opened Garden Oaks restaurant is putting a Houston spin on classic Mediterranean dishes. In this entree, house made pasta is paired with braised beef cheek, radishes, salsa verde, and herbs, turning the building blocks of barbacoa tacos into a form that fits the ambitious neighborhood restaurant. Other highlights from the meal included Spanish meatballs and crispy skin ocean trout over beet risotto.

    Deviled Crab at Credence
    One of the 14 Houston restaurants added to the Michelin Guide for 2025, the live fire restaurant near Memorial City Mall serves this dish instead of a crab cake. Blue crab meat gets sauteed in smoky tomato butter for a bite that’s sweet, smoky, and satisfying. Pair it with the grilled snapper for the full Gulf Coast seafood experience.

    Peking Duck at Maison Chinoise
    This contemporary Chinese restaurant from the company behind Toulouse and Lombardi Cucina Italiana is already winning fans in River Oaks. The Peking duck, a speciality of chef Jordan He, delivers tender meat, crispy skin, and paper-thin crepes that are worthy of any version served around town. Pair it with some of the restaurant’s extensive dumpling selection for the full experience.

    Branzino at Okto
    Chef Yotam Dolev recently updated the menu at this Mediterranean-influenced Montrose restaurant. Seared to achieve a crispy skin, the flakey white fish sits in a tomato-gazpacho broth with fennel and olives. Don’t miss the signature frena bread and Greek salad.

    Shrimp Po’ Boy at Boo’s Burgers
    One perk of moving from pop-up to brick-and-mortar is that it allows Boo’s Burgers chef-owner Joseph Boudreaux to indulge creative impulses such as a rotating Friday fish special that’s currently this sandwich. Loaded with a generous serving of crispy, well-fried shrimp, the sandwich is simply dressed shredded lettuce, tomato, and the chef’s smoky burger sauce. Get it before Boudreaux moves on to another special.

    Veal Piccata at Fielding’s River Oaks
    The River Oaks restaurants is fond of fusion flavors, and its take on veal piccata is no exception. Instead of the usual lemon-caper sauce, Fielding’s serves its veal in a richer mushroom cream sauce with fall-friendly caramelized apples and creamed spinach. It’s a heartier take on the classic that’s well-suited to winter’s recent arrival.

    Barbecue at Charm Taphouse & BBQ
    Thai fare meets Texas at this restaurant on the border of The Woodlands and Tomball. The house made sausages are a standout, particularly the beef-and-basil and German hotlink, particularly when dipped in the restaurant’s tangy nam jim jaew. While the brisket and ribs could’ve used a little longer in the smoking, a weekend prime rib special with a crispy crust and well-rendered fat already has me contemplating a return visit.

    Shrimp Tacos at Cochinita & Co.
    At this restaurant in the East End, plump shrimp are paired with a sweet and spicy pineapple pico and a morita aioli, then wrapped in house made corn tortillas. Good ingredients and precise execution — the shrimp are cooked gently enough to retain a springy texture and mild sweetness — make them some of my favorite tacos in Houston. A side of the vegetarian black beans make for a tasty companion.

    Tonkotsu Gachi at Japanese Ramen Gachi
    Influenced by Shawn the Food Sheep, I visited the two-year-old Med Center-area restaurant for dinner. The signature tonkotsu features a well-seasoned, milk-colored broth with deep pork flavor and major umami punch. Paired with some karaage it made for a very satisfying dinner — just be aware that the Food Sheep’s flock may overwhelm the restaurant’s ability to serve diners quickly.



    Charm Taphouse & BBQ

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Try the sausages at Charm Taphouse & BBQ.

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