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    Eat Your Heart Out

    Cooking with Albert: My brief, wondrous culinary adventures at Chez Roux

    Sarah Rufca
    Dec 22, 2009 | 4:00 am
    • Chef Albert Roux in the kitchen
    • Our Chez Roux dinner menus, signed by Albert Roux, Matthew Gray and SilvanoGiraldin.

    "Good job, girls."

    My mother has an entire filing cabinet of my various awards and accomplishments from birth on forward, but this might be the most exciting affirmation of success I have ever received.

    When the representatives at La Torretta Lake Resort & Spa offered me a chance to attend an intimate cooking lesson and meal with Chef Albert Roux and his handpicked staff at Chez Roux, I leapt at the chance. After all, it's not every day you cook with a legend of the British culinary world. Roux, with his brother Michel, opened London's Le Gavroche in 1967, which transformed British dining and was the first UK restaurant awarded three Michelin stars in 1981.

    The only drawback? I don't cook. Like, at all.

    So, figuring that two clueless novices are better than one, I bring along my friend and co-worker, Caroline. Arriving at the special chef's table adjacent to the kitchen, Roux and executive chef Matthew Gray give us the menu and basic game plan and introduce the chefs we'll be working with in groups of two. Rejecting the seafood course (smelly) and the dessert trio (boring), Caroline and I elect to make the main course, roast breast of duck with parmesan polenta, pearl onions and braised mustard greens. We also pick the duck because the junior sous chef, Damien Rice, seems to have a sense of humor, which I think he'll need trying to work with us.

    We are handed large knives and shown how to trim the fat from the breasts—we complete the task decently but slooooooowly; eventually Damien gives us several additional tutorials so that the course will be ready in time. Chef Roux is also watching and gives me a stern warning when I'm about to remove too much of the duck. Since I am not bleeding and did not accidently ruin anything, I consider the knife portion of the lesson an overwhelming success.

    Caroline is given responsibility for the duck sauce while I handle the pearl onions. This comes down to stirring and feeling accomplished while Damien scurries behind our backs, handing us pre-measured ingredients and leaving us to pour them in and watch the pots. After I totally own the caramelized onions, Damien decides I'm ready to whisk the polenta. It turns out I have no clue how to use a whisk, but I pick it up. What no one told me is that whisking is exhausting. I fully expect to have whisk elbow tomorrow.

    The last phase is seasoning the duck breasts and watching them cook on the stove. Damien gives us advice while watching the clock—it's clear he really wants us to be able to recreate this at home. Caroline tells him at her house they store books in the oven.

    The last to finish, we grab our champagne flutes and join Roux and the others at the table. Silvano Giraldin, the longtime manager of Le Gavroche, gives us a brief lesson about our wine pairings. Roux makes polite (and funny!) small talk to the amateur chef/diners, while occasionally barking an order to the kitchen staff as they prepare for the dinner service.

    At last, the moment of truth arrives. The main course, our duck has been sliced and plated with the polenta, onions, mustard greens and a parmesan wafer. I take a bite and, oh my god, it's really good. At least, I think it's good. Duck is not exactly a staple of my diet. So I watch Chef Roux—as he takes a bite, his face doesn't light up in wonder at our excellence, but neither does he choke or spit it out. "Mmm, very tender," he proclaims. "Good job, girls."

    Forget the wine, I'm drunk with glee. Albert Roux ate something I made and said nice things! Sure, it's his recipe to begin with and maybe (probably) he's just placating us. But I still plan to inscribe the quote on my tombstone. I finish the three-course dinner (the other students also performed well, but I like to think the duck was the standout) emotionally and gastronomically satisfied.

    Am I encouraged to take to the kitchen more often? Definitely. I never thought I'd ever create anything gourmet, but with patience and preparation, I know it's possible. Still, it's tempting to never cook again and go out with this class, this moment, as my crowning achievement.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Dine Out and Do Good

    6 Rice Village restaurants team up to support Houston hospitality nonprofit

    Eric Sandler
    Jan 13, 2026 | 5:15 pm
    Milton's restaurant interior
    Courtesy of Milton's
    Milton's opens September 27.

    Some of Rice Village’s top restaurants have teamed up to raise money for the Southern Smoke Foundation. Dine Out Rice Village is taking place through January 31.

    Modeled after Houston Restaurant Weeks, each restaurant is serving a prix fixe menu at a set price that includes a donation to Southern Smoke, the Houston-based non-profit that provides emergency assistance and mental health services to hospitality workers.

    “January is typically a slower month for restaurants, so if we can encourage folks to go out to eat and simultaneously raise funds for the people growing, cooking, and serving the food and drinks, it’s a win/win all around,” Southern Smoke executive director Lindsey Brown said. “We hope Dine Out Rice Village becomes an essential event in Houston’s food and beverage annual calendar.”

    The participating restaurants are:


    • D’Amico’s: Two-course dinner ($45)
    • Hamsa: Three-course lunch ($25) and four-course dinner ($55)
    • Hudson House: Two-course lunch ($20) and three-course dinner ($55)
    • Mendocino Farms: Golden State Farm Salad (20-percent of sales)
    • Milton’s: Three-course dinner ($55)
    • Navy Blue: Two-course lunch ($35) and three-course dinner ($55)

    Find the specific dishes and donation amounts in this Instagram post:


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Southern Smoke Foundation (@southernsmokefoundation)


    Navy Blue co-owner Aaron Bludorn first proposed Dine Out Rice Village in 2025. He encourages diners to sample the restaurant’s crispy salmon with pomme puree and butter-braised leeks.

    “We created Dine Out Rice Village in concert with Southern Smoke Foundation to showcase all of the amazing restaurants in the neighborhood,” Bludorn said. “We feel that giving Houstonians a reason to visit the Village is all we need to remind them that it is one of the premier dining destinations in Houston.”

    Seth Siegel-Gardner, culinary and creative director for Milton’s owner Local Foods Group, echoed Bludorn’s sentiments. “All of us at Local Foods Group love what Southern Smoke Foundation does for our industry locally and around the country,” he said.

    “We’re always proud to support the incredible organization, especially because that usually comes with doing something fun for Houston diners. In this case, the set menu is an awesome deal for a great cause. It’s a good excuse to try or revisit Chef Kent’s legendary Chicken Parm.”

    news-you-can-eatfundraiserssouthern smoke foundationrice village
    news/restaurants-bars
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