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    Eat Your Heart Out

    Cooking with Albert: My brief, wondrous culinary adventures at Chez Roux

    Sarah Rufca
    Dec 22, 2009 | 4:00 am
    • Chef Albert Roux in the kitchen
    • Our Chez Roux dinner menus, signed by Albert Roux, Matthew Gray and SilvanoGiraldin.

    "Good job, girls."

    My mother has an entire filing cabinet of my various awards and accomplishments from birth on forward, but this might be the most exciting affirmation of success I have ever received.

    When the representatives at La Torretta Lake Resort & Spa offered me a chance to attend an intimate cooking lesson and meal with Chef Albert Roux and his handpicked staff at Chez Roux, I leapt at the chance. After all, it's not every day you cook with a legend of the British culinary world. Roux, with his brother Michel, opened London's Le Gavroche in 1967, which transformed British dining and was the first UK restaurant awarded three Michelin stars in 1981.

    The only drawback? I don't cook. Like, at all.

    So, figuring that two clueless novices are better than one, I bring along my friend and co-worker, Caroline. Arriving at the special chef's table adjacent to the kitchen, Roux and executive chef Matthew Gray give us the menu and basic game plan and introduce the chefs we'll be working with in groups of two. Rejecting the seafood course (smelly) and the dessert trio (boring), Caroline and I elect to make the main course, roast breast of duck with parmesan polenta, pearl onions and braised mustard greens. We also pick the duck because the junior sous chef, Damien Rice, seems to have a sense of humor, which I think he'll need trying to work with us.

    We are handed large knives and shown how to trim the fat from the breasts—we complete the task decently but slooooooowly; eventually Damien gives us several additional tutorials so that the course will be ready in time. Chef Roux is also watching and gives me a stern warning when I'm about to remove too much of the duck. Since I am not bleeding and did not accidently ruin anything, I consider the knife portion of the lesson an overwhelming success.

    Caroline is given responsibility for the duck sauce while I handle the pearl onions. This comes down to stirring and feeling accomplished while Damien scurries behind our backs, handing us pre-measured ingredients and leaving us to pour them in and watch the pots. After I totally own the caramelized onions, Damien decides I'm ready to whisk the polenta. It turns out I have no clue how to use a whisk, but I pick it up. What no one told me is that whisking is exhausting. I fully expect to have whisk elbow tomorrow.

    The last phase is seasoning the duck breasts and watching them cook on the stove. Damien gives us advice while watching the clock—it's clear he really wants us to be able to recreate this at home. Caroline tells him at her house they store books in the oven.

    The last to finish, we grab our champagne flutes and join Roux and the others at the table. Silvano Giraldin, the longtime manager of Le Gavroche, gives us a brief lesson about our wine pairings. Roux makes polite (and funny!) small talk to the amateur chef/diners, while occasionally barking an order to the kitchen staff as they prepare for the dinner service.

    At last, the moment of truth arrives. The main course, our duck has been sliced and plated with the polenta, onions, mustard greens and a parmesan wafer. I take a bite and, oh my god, it's really good. At least, I think it's good. Duck is not exactly a staple of my diet. So I watch Chef Roux—as he takes a bite, his face doesn't light up in wonder at our excellence, but neither does he choke or spit it out. "Mmm, very tender," he proclaims. "Good job, girls."

    Forget the wine, I'm drunk with glee. Albert Roux ate something I made and said nice things! Sure, it's his recipe to begin with and maybe (probably) he's just placating us. But I still plan to inscribe the quote on my tombstone. I finish the three-course dinner (the other students also performed well, but I like to think the duck was the standout) emotionally and gastronomically satisfied.

    Am I encouraged to take to the kitchen more often? Definitely. I never thought I'd ever create anything gourmet, but with patience and preparation, I know it's possible. Still, it's tempting to never cook again and go out with this class, this moment, as my crowning achievement.

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    Where to Drink Now

    5 new Houston bars inspired by Rome, global travels, and grandma's house

    Brianna McClane
    Sep 22, 2026 | 12:08 pm
    the bixby spring branch bar
    Photo by Hasan Yousef
    The Bixby in Spring Branch is a neighborhood bar without television screens.

    From pickleball courts to grandma’s house, Houston’s newest lineup of bars are adding plenty of personality to the city. Take a trip to Italy in Upper Kirby or embark on a global adventure in the Heights. Whichever bar Houstonians choose from the five listed below, a cold cocktail will surely be waiting for them.

    Atlas Cocktail Bar
    Houston-native Dan Bui has brought his globally-themed bar concept home with the new Atlas Cocktail Bar in the Heights. This is the first Houston iteration of the bar, following its sister locations in Dallas and Fort Worth. Designed as an ode to the countries and cultures of the world, each Atlas location has knickknacks and mementos displayed from Bui’s travels.

    “I’ve been fortunate to travel the world, and I like to share what I’ve learned,” Bui said in a release. “Atlas Cocktail has always been about bringing the world into one room. But here, in Houston, that idea hits differently. Because this city already is the world.”

    The menu aligns with the theme, with originals such as the Tejas Daiquiri, inspired by India and Trinidad, with ghee-washed Bacardi Gold, vanilla-chai Nixta, and coconut-curry leaf syrup. Non-alcoholic beverages, beer, wine, and house shots are also on order. Pair drinks with food like German pretzel bites, a Cuban sandwich, and a bulgogi smash burger. For dessert, there’s New York Cheesecake. Atlas is open daily from 4 pm to 2 am at 729 W 19th Street.


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    Beez Kneez
    From the group behind the now-closed Unicorn Disco and Handlebar, Beez Kneez touts itself as grandma’s house in the Heights. This is the second location of Beez Kneez, with the first in Austin. Here, the vibe is quirky with neon signage, taxidermy, and ride-on toys that were likely parked in front of a grocery store in a previous life.

    A pool table provides entertainment, while drinks like an Oreo White Russian and espresso martinis keep patrons hydrated. Beez Kneez is open Monday through Friday from 4 pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 2 pm. Find it at 1015 W 19th Street.

    The Bixby
    From the Kirby Group, the company behind concepts such as Heights Bier Garten, comes a new Spring Branch neighborhood bar. No TVs are in sight at this moody, intimate spot that seats 45 inside and 40 on the patio — instead, patrons are invited to visit neighboring Long Point Social Club to catch a game.

    “There’s a lot of intention behind The Bixby, but we never want the guest to have to think about any of it,” beverage director Joel Ramirez said in a statement. “The drinks can be complex, the music can be eclectic, and the room can have its own personality, but hospitality should always feel simple. Come in, get comfortable, and have a good time.”

    The drink menu’s 14 specialty cocktails range from the Bixby Cup with gin, strawberry, kombu, lime, and togarashi, to the Crocodile Tears, a pisco-tequila concoction with mango bianco, Salers, and peppers. For food, choose from burgers, street tacos, wings, a charcuterie board, and chicken nuggets. The daily happy hour runs from 4-7 pm, with $10 house cocktails and $2 off beer and wine by the glass. A DJ spins tunes on Saturday nights from 9 pm to midnight.

    The Bixby (7202 Long Point Road) is open daily from 4 pm to 2 am.

    Long Point Social Club
    The pickleball craze continues with the opening of Long Point Social Club in Spring Branch. Located on the same property as the Bixby, this two-acre racquet and social club aims to be a gathering place for competitive and casual players alike. Beyond the 12 pickleball courts (eight of which are covered) and four padel courts, the LP Cafe serves up coffee and grab-and-go bites from 8 am, while the Long Point kitchen dishes out fare like sandwiches and bowls from 3-10 pm. Weekday happy hour and weekend brunch round out the offerings. LP Bar is open from 12 pm to 12 am, with beer, wine, seltzers, and classic cocktails like Moscow Mules and Old Fashioneds.

    “We wanted to create more than a place to play,” co-owner Andy Aweida said in a release. “Long Point Social Club is designed to bring people together, whether they are joining a league, learning a new sport, meeting friends for open play, or simply spending time in the space. Our goal is to build a community where everyone can find a way to participate and feel welcome.”

    Long Point Social Club is open daily from 8 am to 12 am at 7202 Long Point Road.

    Otium
    On the Kirb owner Joe Abreely and his partners created this upscale Italian lounge in Upper Kirby as an immersive destination that aims to transport patrons to the days when Rome reigned supreme. Named for the Latin word for "leisure," the interior sets the mood with custom furniture, natural wood, greenery, and soft lighting.

    “I really wanted to bring the old Roman feel to the evening,” co-owner Job Abreely tells CultureMap. “[Houston] needs something that people can really dress up for. Cicero wrote ‘otium cum dignitate,’ meaning, ‘leisure with dignity.’ You don't just go out to have fun, you also go out to connect or relax after work, but also to build culture and and talk amongst amongst ourselves, to build connections.”

    The Italian influence extends to the menu with drinks such as the Otium Spritz, made with Select Aperitivo, white peach puree, prosecco, and soda, and food including bruschetta and flatbreads. For martini fans, the Diadema Martini is a tableside experience, with an olive oil fat-washed martini in a frozen bottle dramatically presented inside a wooden box filled with dry ice.

    Important to know before you go: The 25-and-up only bar has a strict dress code. Otium is open from Thursday to Saturday from 8 pm to 2 am at 5020 Kirby Drive.

    the bixby spring branch bar

    Photo by Hasan Yousef

    The Bixby in Spring Branch is a neighborhood bar without television screens.

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