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    Eat Your Heart Out

    Cooking with Albert: My brief, wondrous culinary adventures at Chez Roux

    Sarah Rufca
    Dec 22, 2009 | 4:00 am
    • Chef Albert Roux in the kitchen
    • Our Chez Roux dinner menus, signed by Albert Roux, Matthew Gray and SilvanoGiraldin.

    "Good job, girls."

    My mother has an entire filing cabinet of my various awards and accomplishments from birth on forward, but this might be the most exciting affirmation of success I have ever received.

    When the representatives at La Torretta Lake Resort & Spa offered me a chance to attend an intimate cooking lesson and meal with Chef Albert Roux and his handpicked staff at Chez Roux, I leapt at the chance. After all, it's not every day you cook with a legend of the British culinary world. Roux, with his brother Michel, opened London's Le Gavroche in 1967, which transformed British dining and was the first UK restaurant awarded three Michelin stars in 1981.

    The only drawback? I don't cook. Like, at all.

    So, figuring that two clueless novices are better than one, I bring along my friend and co-worker, Caroline. Arriving at the special chef's table adjacent to the kitchen, Roux and executive chef Matthew Gray give us the menu and basic game plan and introduce the chefs we'll be working with in groups of two. Rejecting the seafood course (smelly) and the dessert trio (boring), Caroline and I elect to make the main course, roast breast of duck with parmesan polenta, pearl onions and braised mustard greens. We also pick the duck because the junior sous chef, Damien Rice, seems to have a sense of humor, which I think he'll need trying to work with us.

    We are handed large knives and shown how to trim the fat from the breasts—we complete the task decently but slooooooowly; eventually Damien gives us several additional tutorials so that the course will be ready in time. Chef Roux is also watching and gives me a stern warning when I'm about to remove too much of the duck. Since I am not bleeding and did not accidently ruin anything, I consider the knife portion of the lesson an overwhelming success.

    Caroline is given responsibility for the duck sauce while I handle the pearl onions. This comes down to stirring and feeling accomplished while Damien scurries behind our backs, handing us pre-measured ingredients and leaving us to pour them in and watch the pots. After I totally own the caramelized onions, Damien decides I'm ready to whisk the polenta. It turns out I have no clue how to use a whisk, but I pick it up. What no one told me is that whisking is exhausting. I fully expect to have whisk elbow tomorrow.

    The last phase is seasoning the duck breasts and watching them cook on the stove. Damien gives us advice while watching the clock—it's clear he really wants us to be able to recreate this at home. Caroline tells him at her house they store books in the oven.

    The last to finish, we grab our champagne flutes and join Roux and the others at the table. Silvano Giraldin, the longtime manager of Le Gavroche, gives us a brief lesson about our wine pairings. Roux makes polite (and funny!) small talk to the amateur chef/diners, while occasionally barking an order to the kitchen staff as they prepare for the dinner service.

    At last, the moment of truth arrives. The main course, our duck has been sliced and plated with the polenta, onions, mustard greens and a parmesan wafer. I take a bite and, oh my god, it's really good. At least, I think it's good. Duck is not exactly a staple of my diet. So I watch Chef Roux—as he takes a bite, his face doesn't light up in wonder at our excellence, but neither does he choke or spit it out. "Mmm, very tender," he proclaims. "Good job, girls."

    Forget the wine, I'm drunk with glee. Albert Roux ate something I made and said nice things! Sure, it's his recipe to begin with and maybe (probably) he's just placating us. But I still plan to inscribe the quote on my tombstone. I finish the three-course dinner (the other students also performed well, but I like to think the duck was the standout) emotionally and gastronomically satisfied.

    Am I encouraged to take to the kitchen more often? Definitely. I never thought I'd ever create anything gourmet, but with patience and preparation, I know it's possible. Still, it's tempting to never cook again and go out with this class, this moment, as my crowning achievement.

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    need a hand?

    Growing Houston sushi chain rolls into new Galleria-area development

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 6, 2026 | 2:45 pm
    Handies Douzo hand rolls
    Courtesy of Handies Douzo
    Handies Douzo will brings its hand rolls to Uptown later this year.

    A growing Houston hand roll restaurant has signed on to a new Galleria-area development. Handies Douzo is the fourth restaurant announced for Central Park Post Oak.

    Opened in late 2019, Handies is known for wrapping its rolls in crispy seaweed that gives each bite a distinct crunch. The well-executed dishes and affordable prices helped Handies earn a nomination for Neighborhood Restaurant of the Year in the 2026 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards.

    On track to open later this year, the Uptown location will be Handies Douzo’s fourth, joining its original in the Heights as well as restaurants in Montrose and Spring Branch. Like those siblings, it will serve Handies’ familiar menu of hand rolls (temaki), crudos, and sashimi that’s overseen by founding chefs and co-owners Daniel Lee and Patrick Pham.

    Duckstache, the hospitality group behind Handies, is working with Houston’s Gin Design Group on the interior. Expect a slightly more upscale look than the restaurant’s other locations, with details such as matte black finishes and dark terrazzo to complement the 26-seat counter.

    “We’re really intentional about the neighborhoods we choose and where we think Handies Douzo will feel like a natural fit,” Lee said in a statement. “Houston diners know what they like, and Uptown is such a vibrant, fast-growing area. Central Park Post Oak felt like the right match for our handroll experience and the way people in Houston live, work, and dine.”

    Handies is the fourth restaurant that’s announced its plans to open at Central Park Post Oak. The others are:

    • Buck & Rider, an Arizona-based seafood restaurant known for its oyster bar and lively brunch
    • The Henry, the “ultimate neighborhood restaurant” from Flower Child owner Fox Restaurant Concepts
    • Sparrow Italia, an Italian steakhouse from Toca Madera owner Noble 33.

    Announced last year, Central Park Post Oak will consist of three buildings with a combined 1.2 million square feet of office space separated by a three-acre lawn. Houston-based real estate development firm Midway, working with real estate investment firms 3Edgewood and Parkway, is developing the property. Construction is expected to be completed in the fall of 2026 with the restaurants openings to follow.

    “Handies Douzo represents the kind of thoughtful, chef-driven hospitality we want at the heart of Central Park Post Oak,” Midway vice president Clayton Freels said. “Patrick, Daniel, and the Duckstache team have built a loyal following across Houston, and we are thrilled to help them extend that experience to Uptown in a way that feels authentic to both the brand and the neighborhood.”

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