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    Little Pappas revived

    Pappas revives its intimate, Inner Loop beloved seafood restaurant

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 10, 2021 | 11:57 am
    Little Pappas Seafood exterior
    Little Pappas will return in 2022.
    Courtesy of Pappas Restaurants

    In the world of Houston restaurants, "temporarily closed" usually means closed for good, but every now and then an establishment gets a second chance. Count Little Pappas Seafood House among those fortunate few.

    Closed since last year due to the pandemic, the intimate, Inner Loop favorite seafood spot will reopen early next year with a new name that reflects one of its most popular items: Little Pappas Seafood House Oyster Bar. Seafood lovers always feasted on oysters at Little Pappas — carefully watching the marquee for special deals on prized bivalves — but now they'll be a more explicit focus with selections from both the East and Gulf coasts.

    As for the rest of the menu, look for Gulf fish such as snapper that's caught by Pappas Restaurants' own boats and farm-raised redfish from Palacios along with a few fried selections, appetizers like crab cakes and quail brochette, and Maine lobster. Pappas' signature tableside Greek salad will be available, too.

    Similarly, Pappas wine director Robert Smith plans to stock the list with approximately 60 "cool bottles" (his words) that pair well with oysters and other seafood, especially Champagne, European whites, and lighter reds like Pinot Noir.

    Changes to the space include new countertops and a refreshed bar complete with new stools. Outside, the 24-seat patio will have all-new furniture.

    Pappas plans to begin hiring in early January. The restaurant will open as soon as its team is trained and ready to go.

    Little Pappas isn't the only Pappas restaurant to get a second chance in 2022. The company will revive its Greek restaurant Yia Yia Mary's — now Yia Yia Pappas — in the former Pappadeaux space on Richmond Avenue.

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    fit to print

    New York Times critic awards Houston restaurant 2 stars in glowing review

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 16, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Chopnblok food spread
    Courtesy of ChòpnBlọk
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    Let’s just call 2025 the year of ChòpnBlọk. In a review published Tuesday, December 16, the New York Times has awarded the Houston restaurant two stars (“very good”).

    Written by chief restaurant critic Tejal Rao, the review touts many of the same qualities that the Times already praised when it included ChòpnBlọk on its list of America’s 50 best restaurants.

    Rao writes that she usually avoids restaurants that serve food in bowls, but she’s impressed by the way that chef-owner Ope Amosu has put a West African spin on the concept.

    “For inspiration, Ope Amosu looked to the kind of chain restaurants that were built to scale, where flavors are often subdued to appeal to the broadest possible audience, focus-grouped to death. But the delight of ChòpnBlok is in its sure sense of self, its lively, multidimensional cooking and clear, delicious vision for modern food from the Black diaspora,” Rao writes.

    She singles out specific dishes, including the Nigerian red stew with short rib, the Black Star bowl with shrimp, and the signature Motherland, made with chicken, greens, and plantains. “It’s utterly simple, but draws you in for more with the mouthwatering twang of not-too-much MSG — an international shortcut to building umami that tends to be used carefully, and layered with other forms,” she writes.

    The review also touches on the way Amosu switched the restaurant from counter service to full service — described as “warm, informal, and quick with the jokes” — and his time working at Chipotle to learn the basics of the restaurant operations.

    A two-star review is only the latest instance of ChòpnBlọk receiving national attention. In addition to the Times 50 best list, Esquire recently named it one of America’s best new restaurants. The Michelin Guide awarded it a Bib Gourmand designation for 2025. Amosu earned a semifinalist nomination for Best Chef: Texas in the 2025 James Beard Awards.

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