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    Foodie News

    Timbergrove gets in on the foodie fun: New craft beer & wine spot takes overabandoned grocer

    Sarah Rufca
    Nov 29, 2012 | 10:20 am
    • Crisp's central bar has 24 beer taps.
    • One of the thin-crust pizzas from Crisp
      Courtesy photo
    • Crisp has a separate to-go room for retail wine (by the bottle or case) as wellas beer growlers.

    Sometimes it seems like Houston restaurateurs woke up a couple years ago and realized that people north of I-10 like to eat and drink too. From El Gran Malo to Cottonwood to the revitalized Corkscrew wine bar, Heights-adjacent neighborhoods like Oak Forest and Timbergrove are finally getting their delicious due.

    The latest eatery among the numbered streets in Crisp, which opened at the beginning of November and offers wine, craft beer and a focused menu that features thin-crust pizzas on white or wheat dough — from the Blue Southern Belle with gorgonzola, peaches, arugula, basil and Texas Sweet Tea syrup to the San Fran North Beach, covered with tomato sauce, pepperoni, rosemary ham, fennel seed sausage, green olives, chili flakes and cherry tomatoes — plus salads, sandwiches and some traditional American-style entrees like beer can chicken and beef short ribs.

    With 24 craft beers on tap (including several locals) and a sizeable wine list, Crisp seems well poised to bridge the gap that's emerged between the two drinks.

    With 24 craft beers on tap (including several locals) and a sizeable wine list, Crisp seems well poised to bridge the gap that's emerged between the two drinks. There's even a retail component that sells and refills growlers and offers any wine on the list to-go for 20 percent off. There's also an enomatic wine system, so guests can add money onto a tasting card and get individual tastes in one-, three- or five-ounce pours before settling on a bottle.

    Though it looks a little generic from the outside, the 6,000-square-foot open interiors are set apart by a large wood-framed central bar and exposed brick walls that date to the building's former life as the long-abandoned Shady Grocery. Crisp is owned by the team behind Pub Fiction, Shot Bar and Celtic Gardens and compared to some of the other new establishments nearby it feels less personal and more formulaic: x taps + y repurpursed old building + z servers with old timey mustaches = cool bar.

    Still, it seems like a winning formula as of late. As far as neighborhood haunts go, this Timbergrove version looks like it has some promise.

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    news/restaurants-bars
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    Bourdain-inspired chef/writer

    Houston chef looks back at barbecue pop-ups with artful new zine

    Craig D. Lindsey
    May 15, 2025 | 4:00 pm
    Ryan Grimes Knives in Water
    Courtesy of Ryan Grimes
    Ryan Grimes has been serving food in bars for more than 10 years.

    If you frequent beloved dive bars like Two Headed Dog, Grand Prize Bar or Lil' Danny Speedo's Go Fly a Kite Lounge, there’s a good chance you’ve drunkenly bought food from Knives in Water.

    One of several pop-up kitchens that sells and serves bar food on a regular basis, Knives consists of one guy – Baltimore native Ryan Grimes – who knows his way around smoked meats, whether it’s ribs, turkey legs, buffalo wings, or a whole turkey (for Thanksgiving only). When it comes to barbecue, he sees himself as a culinary outlier.

    “The art of barbecue can kind of be gatekept by a lot of folks, which is ridiculous,” Grimes tells CultureMap. “I mean, it's three ingredients. It's a lot like punk rock: three chords and the truth, and you’re gonna get it right.

    On Saturday, May 24, Grimes will celebrate his 42nd birthday at Midtown bar Two Headed Dog, where he’ll be serving up more than just food. He’ll also debut Papercut, a zine filled with essays, remembrances and, yes, recipes. “A lot of it was taken from previous Instagram posts I had done that I expounded upon,” he says.

    With layout and artwork provided by bartender/artist Khrystah Luisa Gorham (who also designed Knives in Water’s logo and T-shirt merch), Grimes included many endearing entries to this brisk read. A 2015 post has him recalling the time he and his father went to the Million Man March when he was 12. A more recent piece has him cooking for his parents and maternal grandparents on Martin Luther King Day. He pays tribute to idol Anthony Bourdain (“I count him as a teacher of sorts, helping me find my own voice through food, culture and adventure.”) as well as an old friend whom he named a wing sauce after.

    The issue also runs down the various dishes Grimes tinkered with during the pandemic. “I took a look back at dishes that I had done in the past that I don't do anymore or, for one reason or another, I can't do,” he says. “Maybe they're too complicated or just wouldn't sell well at a dive bar, that kind of thing.”

    Papercut is basically a printed primer of the business Grimes has been operating since 2019. “Actually, [The Suffers frontwoman] Kam Franklin was the person that first put the idea in my head to do this, you know, professionally,” he remembers. “I did a dinner party for her. I mean, I can't remember what year it was — 2010, 2012, 2014… She was the first person to say, 'hey, you really got something here. You know, you're talented, your food's good. People seem to dig it.' So I guess you could kind of date it back to that.”

    Grimes got the idea for Papercut when he did a pop-up at last year’s Zine Fest Houston, held at the Orange Show. That’s where co-organizer Anastasia “Stacy” Kirages encouraged Grimes to put his thoughts and opinions down on paper. “It took her a while to convince me to do it,” he says. “Stacy's the most personable, likable person on the planet and I admire the hell out of her. So, it was kind of tough.”

    After he stopped procrastinating, Grimes found that creating a zine came quite easily to him. “Once I came up with the name, the silly name, it just kind of flew together in the space of maybe two months. I started writing it in February and I was holding a copy of it by late March, maybe early April. But yeah, it didn't take long at all.”

    Grimes has a limited number of copies, which he’ll be selling at his pop-ups. Copies will also be available at CLASS Bookstore and Gulf Coast Cosmos Comicbook Co. He isn’t ruling out dropping another volume if demand calls for it. If he does, Grimes assures readers that he’ll have fun with it and not become another culinary clout-chaser. “

    Yeah, it's really serious – the business of being a foodie, posting on Instagram and likes and all this stuff,” he says. “The competition is real and this is just a way to say it doesn't have to be that way. You know, you can do all of this yourselves. You and your friends can start a pop-up.

    “Starting a restaurant is something that will likely never happen for me,” he continues, “but that doesn't mean that I don't believe in my food and don't believe in my friends that do it as well. Umbrella Fellas, Annie’s Sammies, Tacos Bomberos. These are all pop-ups that are deserving of brick-and-mortar restaurants. They're deserving of all the accolades that we just don't get overshadowed because we're small-time, hanging out in dive bars, serving the people. But that's fine. No one I know is doing this for the laurels. It's just this punk rock DIY ethic that anyone can do this. Yeah, that's the beauty of it.”

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    news/restaurants-bars
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