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    Forgione or Canora?

    No Caswell or Tsai, but Next Iron Chef winner is one heckuva guy

    Sarah Rufca
    Nov 22, 2010 | 12:06 am

    Last week I asked whether two finalists who specialized in Italian and worked in New York meant The Next Iron Chef was looking for a ringer to replace Batali.

    Commenters responded with a resounding "yes!" — it looks like Ming Tsai's elimination was the most contentious since Gretchen vs. Mondo on Project Runway, even though it was the right call in my view.

    But onto the final — Marco Canora versus Marc Forgione. Canora has been the most consistently impressive, notching more challenge wins than any one else this season or any season. Forgione came in clearly as the underdog, having had some slip-ups and near-misses, but when he was firing on all cylinders, he made food no one could match.

    He may have been he underdog, but I was on Team Forgione from the start. Why?

    1. He did his homework. It's not clear if the producers told the contestants this would be Thanksgiving themed (though it seems unlikely) or if Forgione figured out the air date and worked it out from there. Either way, he was a fountain of information, talking all about the original Harvest Festival in 1621, what they ate there and what they didn't (turkey). This history major approves.
    2. His sous chefs were hotter. Did I say hotter? I meant hot.
    3. Marco Canora was still being Marco Canora. Which is to say defining any interpretation other than his as heretical and inferior. As he entered kicthen stadium, his voiceover reminded "I don't think great cooking is about bells and whistles," a pretty open barb tossed at Forgione's fanciful, intellectual creations. It wouldn't be as annoying if it wasn;t the same cheap shot he'd been taking since episode one, and no one likes a winner who's also a whiner.

    The cooking portion was even more chaotic than usual, and the fact that they were creating a Thanksgiving feast really caused it to hit home how ridiculous it is that these guys do this all in an hour.

    There was early drama when Canora cut a finger, some yelling about fennel being too hot, duck sausage that might have been a problem but then wasn't, an awkward interview segment with the eliminated Iron Chef contestants (nice blazer, Caswell!) and a soothing ending of Canora repeatedly screaming for the time.

    Forgione's Harvest Festival-inspired feast was up first for judging, with the panel expanded to include Iron Chefs Bobby Flay and Masaharu Morimoto in addition to Donatella Arpaia, Simon Majumdar, Michael Symon and Alton Brown.

    Forgione opens with a beautiful sunset-colored clam chowder with mussels, cod and sweet potatoes. The judges pretty much agree it's well-flavored and perfectly cooked but a tad salty.

    Next Forgione serves his duck sausage wrapped in swiss chard on a cornbread crouton. Arpaia calls it a "perfect bite," and Majumdar is impressed at how pretty it is, though he describes the sausage as dry.

    The third course is a butter-poached lobster with sauce poured from the smoked lobster tail and "sun-choked" spinach, with an underplate of smoked wood chips to simulate the sensation of eating lobster around a fire.

    "From a flavor standpoint it wasn't my favorite of the tree you've put in from of us so far, but I love the thought process you put into it," says Symon.

    Forgione continues with chestnut-stuffed venison with gin-soaked raisins and butternut squash and lemon confit puree. It gets universal praise, with Flay calling the flavor combos "simple and smart" and Arpaia, speaking warmly of how it made her feel like Thanksgiving.

    Finally the desert is an inside-out plum cobbler with candied walnuts and vanilla ice cream. Morimoto finally speaks up and says he really likes it.

    But when the overall meal is considered, the lack of turkey is still controversial. Flay says he didn't miss it and commends Forgione for his ballsy decision. Majumdar seems torn, but Arpaia implies the risk paid off since the dishes were successful.

    Last but not least, Marco Canora opens with a roasted fennel soup with butter-poached lobster and a sweet pumpkin pickle. Arpaia and Majumdar knock it for it's muddy brown appearance but everyone seems in agreement that the flavors are on point.

    He follows with a pumpkin risotto with suash, pumpkin puree and amaretti biscuits. Symon says it's a touch too sweet and Majumdar agrees, saying the flavor combiantion and the sweetness didn't work for him.

    "Since we're honoring the tradition of Thanksgiving I very much felt obliged to do turkey," says Canora, who seems to be angling for a win via disqualification after the less-than-positive feedback from the second course.

    He serves a traditional turkey breast with gravy, cranberry puree painted on the plate, mashed potatoes and porcini mushroom stuffing. Majumdar likes the moistness of the turkey, but Flay suggests crisping some skin for a bit of crunch would have been nice.

    Next up is a pretty plate of venison stuffed with juniper, rosemary and pistacios alongside a corn sformato and huckleberries. Flay likes the word "sformato." Majundar feels there is too much juniper, Arpaia suggests it's the rosemary that's a little overpowering but still cmmends the dish as fun.

    Last up is Canora's pecan tart with a cranberry sorbet and squash confit. "This is definetely the best pecan pie I've ever eaten," says Majundar, and he pronounces pecan is that anoying Northeastern way, PEE-cun. Symon just grins and stammers out that he loved it.

    The judges deliberation begins, with Flay giving the first nod to Forgione for his elevated presentations. Arpaia and her bountiful cleavage remark on what a close race this is, and compares the early courses between the men, saying she prefers Forgione's lean towards salty over Canora's lean towards sweet. In the head-to head venison comparison, Majumdar prefers Forgione's version for his restraint in seasoning.

    Alton Brown describes the decision as between Forgione's "unpredicable brilliance" versus Canora's "consistent soulfulness."

    For me, it certainly seems like Forgione has a good shot, but the lingering question of to turkey or not to turkey could be the difference.

    After the requisite stalling and tension, the chairman announces the winner is ... Marc Forgione!

    If I didn't already like him, the sobbing man-hug with his sous chefs was pretty adorably touching. Canora, to his credit, accepts his loss with grace.

    CultureMappers, were you surprised at Forgione's win? Would you have preferred Canora, or is the loss of Caswell and Tsai still too close?

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    service switcheroo

    Street food-inspired Houston restaurant swaps counter service for servers

    Eric Sandler
    Nov 14, 2025 | 10:14 am
    Traveler's Cart food spread
    Photo by Andrew Hemingway
    Traveler's Cart is add new dishes to its menu, including steak frites and chicken parm.

    A globally-inspired Houston restaurant is making a big change to its service model. Traveler’s Cart will switch from counter service to full service beginning this Monday, November 17.

    When owners Thy and Matthew Mitchell opened Traveler’s Cart last year as a more casual sister concept to Traveler’s Table, their globally-inspired Montrose restaurant, they decided counter service would match the restaurant’s street food-inspired menu and lower price point. With a year of experience, they’ve decided full service — where diners sit down and order from a server — will improve the customer experience in a number of ways.

    First, they noticed that some of their online reviews go to great lengths to explain the ordering process. Moving to traditional table service will elimination that confusion.

    “We want to be like a great brasserie or izakaya where people come and enjoy food and drinks at a reasonable price,” Matthew Mitchell tells CultureMap. “There’s a lack of intuitiveness about the process right now. Almost a year in, we’re still having to explain where you go and how you order. That tells you we probably missed the mark.”

    He also recognizes that the inherent uncertainty of counter service — people are concerned about how long they’ll have to wait to order and whether a table will be available once they do — limits the restaurant’s appeal as a date night option or for larger groups who want the certainty of having a place to sit.

    Even though the restaurant has been a financial success, according to Mitchell, he thinks Traveler’s Cart is missing out on revenue with its counter service model. “I think people order less at the counter. You may not order a cocktail, and you certainly won’t get back up and order more drinks,” he says.

    Switching to full service will also help the restaurant’s perceived value. With entrees mostly priced between $15 and $25, the restaurant may feel expensive relative to other fast casual restaurants. Once servers are added, Mitchell thinks diners will appreciate the value, particularly since its prices are about half of sister concept Traveler’s Table.

    “I feel like the food quality is outstanding for the price, but when it crosses that $20 or $30 threshold, people perceive it as pricey,” he says.

    Traveler’s Cart has other ways to enhance the value of its offering, such as its $18, three-course lunch that includes iced tea or a fountain drink. Happy hour, available Monday through Friday from 3-6 pm, includes $8 cocktails, $3 drafts, $8 small plates, and more.

    Along with the new service model, Travelers Cart is updating its menu with a number of new dishes. They include Thai chili queso, Baja shrimp tacos, salmon donburi bowl, chicken parmesan, and steak frites. The cocktail menu has also been refreshed with a Mexican espresso martini and a Tuk Tuk Old Fashioned, named for the vehicle that now sits in front of the restaurant’s entrance.

    Recently recognized by the Texas Restaurant Association as Restaurateurs of the Year for the Houston region, the Mitchells hope that these changes will lead to even more success. With the service style refined and the menu dialed in, they’re already looking for another location.





    Traveler's Cart food spread

    Photo by Andrew Hemingway

    Traveler's Cart is add new dishes to its menu, including steak frites and chicken parm.

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