Foodie News

Texas Monthly heaps "Mex-Tex" love on Hugo's, snubs Yelapa

Hugo's Mexican restaurant
Photo by Paula Murphy
Chef Hugo Ortega
Photo by Terri Fensel
Hugo's mole verde

It looks like Texas Monthly has found a way around some of the regional infighting that surrounds any "best of" list — particularly the lists centered around food.

In the December issue, the magazine focuses on the emergence of "Mex-Tex" — a more authentic breed of restaurants with culinary pedigree ranging beyond the frontera to the interior and coastal regions of Mexico. And Houston favorite Hugo's earned a top spot as one of the five "mejores."

But among the top five, as on the rest of the list, in lieu of rankings the restaurants are named alphabetically, with Austin's Fonda San Miguel, Cuquita's in Dallas, Fort Worth's Salsa Fuego, and San Antonio fave Soluna joining Hugo's at the top.

The authors, including TM staple Pat Sharpe and Houston reporter Robin Barr Sussman, single out Hugo's seafood, moles, carne asada and desserts for particular merit, lauding the restaurant as "Houston’s temple of interior Mexican cuisine," and giving credit to owner and executive chef Hugo Ortega for his version of dishes from his native Puebla — "his creative interpretations take them beyond earnest tradition," coos the magazine.

Houston had a total of nine entries in the top 50, tying it with Dallas and San Antonio for the most representation, with Austin close behind with eight contenders.

In addition to Hugo's, Texas Monthly named these eight as the other top Mex-Tex eateries in Houston:

We're disappointed the phenomenal coastal Mexican newcomer Yelapa Playa Mexicana didn't make the list, but it does raise the question: Where does Tex-Mex end and Mex-Mex begin? If Tex-Mex originals like Ninfa's and Irma's can make the list, what would disqualify other other Tex-Mex joints (besides the fact that Ninfa's and Irma's do their thing better than anybody else)?

CultureMappers, what do you think of the list? Is "Mex-Tex" legit? What other restaurants did Texas Monthly miss? And is Hugo's the best in Texas?

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there's the rub

Restaurant known for 'new Houston cuisine' now open in Cypress

Courtesy of Jonathan's the Rub

Jonathan's the Rub serves steaks and other dishes.

A restaurant known for its eclectic “new Houston cuisine” has opened in Cypress. The fourth location of Jonathan’s the Rub is now open for dinner in Bridgeland (20215 Bridgeland Creek Parkway).

First announced last year, the new Jonathan’s is located in Village Green, a 70-acre mixed-use development within the 925-acre Bridgeland Central district. The 5,500-square-foot restaurant includes two patios totaling 2,600 square feet, giving the restaurant plenty of room for private dining rooms, a bar area, and indoor-outdoor areas with fire pits and greenery.

“We were looking for the next frontier — a community with a booming population and a clear vision for growth that aligns with our brand,” chef-owner Jonathan Levine said in a statement. “When we discovered Bridgeland and learned it was a Howard Hughes development, we were immediately impressed. With their reputation for developing generational communities, we felt confident that Bridgeland was the right place for our family and for Jonathan’s the Rub.”

Like Jonathan’s three other locations, the menu at Bridgeland is built around Levine’s signature “new Houston cuisine,” a kicked-up take on comfort food that includes everything from lobster tacos and blackened shrimp and grits to Italian American classics and steakhouse fare.

Village Green is also home to H-E-B and restaurants such as Sweet Paris Crêperie & Café and Crust Pizza Co. Austin-based burger joint P. Terry’s will open there next year.

“Jonathan’s the Rub’s arrival in Bridgeland Central brings a distinguished addition to the culinary scene in both the community and northwest Houston,” said Jim Carman, president of the Texas region, for Bridgeland developer Howard Hughes Communities. “We’re proud to partner with exceptional restaurateurs like Chef Jonathan Levine to bring elevated dining experiences that enhance the lifestyle offerings for our residents and neighbors.”

Courtesy of Jonathan's the Rub

Jonathan's the Rub serves steaks and other dishes.