The New York Times has once again shined its spotlight on Houston restaurants. Two of the city’s most-well regarded eateries make the paper’s new list of The 26 Best Dishes We Ate Across the U.S. in 2024.
They are:
- Horchata Berlinesa at Ema, a Mexican breakfast and lunch restaurant in the Heights that earned a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide
- Goat Chops at Aga’s, the essential Pakistani restaurant in Southwest Houston
Priya Krishna, one of the Times two interim food critics, writes the entries for both Houston dishes.
She describes eating Aga’s goat chops as a “deeply primal pleasure” and appreciates the fajitas-style presentation of serving the chops on a sizzling platter. “The warmth of the spices runs deep, and the chops are tender to the bone. Eat with your hands, letting the fiery marinade stain your fingers a delightfully,” Krishna writes.
That sentiment is shared by Houston food influencer and Burger Bodega owner Abbas Dhanani. In his guide to Houston’s 25 best halal restaurants, Dhanani called Aga’s “the best Pakistani restaurant … in the nation. Any Pakistani that travels to Houston has almost certainly been to Aga’s.”
Moving on to Ema, Krishna hails the Horchata Berlinesa, a doughnut filled with horchata-flavored pastry cream, as “a seamless marriage of European and Mexican confectionery.” Krishna praises the filling for its “subtle, cinnamon-laced flavors of horchata” that serve as a contrast to the sweetness of the sugar-crusted dough.
One other dish on the list is also available in Houston. Atlanta restaurant Little Sparrow makes the cut for its French onion soup, which writer Kim Severson calls “the perfect soupe à l’oignon gratinée.” Since Little Sparrow is part of Ford Fry’s Rocket Farm restaurant group, that French onion soup is also available at River Oaks restaurant State of Grace, which switched to a European-inspired menu and more refined service model earlier this year.
Chefs Ford Fry and Bobby Matos discussed the changes at State of Grace on an episode of CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast. Hear that interview here.
Only one other Texas restaurant made the Times list — the Suadero taco at Paprika, a food truck in Austin. Earlier this year, the paper included three Texas restaurants, including Houston-area soul food concept Viola & Agnes, on its annual list of “our 50 favorite places in America right now.”
The original Tacos A Go-Go on Main.
Tacos a Go-Go is heading to White Oak in the Heights.Google Maps
