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    a matter of taste

    Breaking down Alison Cook's top 100: What makes a restaurant the best?

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 25, 2019 | 1:20 pm
    Manabu Horiuchi Hori-san Kata Robata
    Kata Robata tops Alison Cook's list.
    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Kata Robata is Houston’s best restaurant, according to Alison Cook. The Upper Kirby sushi restaurant tops the venerable critic’s list of Houston’s top 100 restaurants.

    Seems reasonable enough. Kata Robata chef Manabu Horiuchi is the current CultureMap Tastemaker Awards chef of the year, and his restaurant balances both traditional sushi techniques with an appealing, Gulf Coast perspective that includes dishes like heritage pork shu mai and Texas wagyu yakitori skewers.

    “What lands a restaurant on the list? It’s a personal judgment, one based on more than four decades of observing and reporting on Houston’s food scene,” Cook writes in the list’s introductory essay. “It’s not about hot takes or adding scads of new places just to appear … well, new.”

    Despite not wanting to “appear new,” she has made major changes to both the restaurants that are included on the list and how they’re ranked relative to each other. The top 10 contains four new members: Tony’s, 5; Indigo, 6; Squable, 8; and Giacomo’s, 10. Similarly, Cook welcomed a number of newcomers to the ranked, top 30 portion of her list, including Georgia James (12), Caracol (18), Verandah Progressive Indian Cuisine (20), Kau Ba Kitchen (22), Eunice (24), 1751 Sea & Bar (26), Costa Brava Bistro (28), Tejas Chocolate and Barbecue (29), and Bravery Chef Hall (30).

    Newcomers in the alphabetical, non-ranked section of Cook’s list include: Blood Bros. BBQ, International Smoke, La Lucha, MAD, Rudyard’s, Truth Barbeque, and others.

    Elevating certain restaurants means that many others have been removed. The most prominent victim of this reshuffling is Ronnie Killen. Killen’s Barbecue drops from third to 23, and Killen’s Steakhouse, ranked 16 in 2018, falls off the list entirely. On the bright side, Killen’s STQ moves up from 27 to 15, making it the city’s second best steakhouse behind Georgia James.

    Of the four French-inspired restaurants Cook included in last year’s top 20, only La Table (21) remains in the ranked section. The others, Brasserie 1895, Lucienne, and Maison Pucha Bistro, have been dropped into the alphabetical section.

    Other restaurants that remain open but are off the list include some restaurants that Cook has previously championed, such as Habanero & the Guero, Hubcap Grill, and Mezzanote. Bernie’s Burger Bus, Morningstar, Oporto Fooding House & Wine, Pappas Delta Blues, Pizaro’s Pizza, Potente, and Revival Market are also among the restaurants that appeared on the last year’s edition but didn’t make the cut in 2019.

    Cook’s list also offers a significantly different take on the state of Houston’s dining scene than CultureMap’s own list of Houston’s top 100 restaurants. That starts at the top; Riel, CultureMap’s number one restaurant, only comes in at 27 on Cook’s list. (Maybe someone should buy Riel chef-owner Ryan Lachaine a Jose Altuve jersey to celebrate his ranking.)

    Overall, the two top tens contain only four restaurants in common: Theodore Rex, Kata Robata, UB Preserv, and Himalaya. Some restaurants in CultureMap’s top 30 — Potente, Roka Akor, and Mein — don’t appear on Cook’s list at all.

    CultureMap’s Top 100 list is different in all the ways I promised it would be back in September. For example, it prefers eclectic, casual atmospheres to fine dining. Cook has two upscale restaurants in her top five, but BCN doesn’t show up on the CultureMap list until 20 and Tony's comes in at 40.

    With a focus on the Inner Loop, the CultureMap list makes room for casual restaurants like Paulie’s, Relish, Les Ba’get, Alma Latina, The Classic, and La Calle that are vital parts of their respective neighborhoods but get replaced on Cook’s list with suburban establishments like Fielding’s Local, Soto’s Cantina, and Pierogi Queen.

    Ultimately, it’s up to readers to decide which list is more useful to them. Is Nobie’s one of Houston’s very best restaurants, or is it merely a good one? Does Izakaya Wa provide diners with a traditional Japanese experience, or do they prefer the high style, more expensive offerings at Kuu? Is Weights + Measures serving some of the city’s best pasta, or should people splurge on Da Marco instead? Does using an offset smoker and making brisket fat tortillas make The Pit Room one of Houston’s best barbecue joints, or do people prefer the East Texas touches at Ray’s BBQ Shack?

    Answering these questions comes down as much to personal taste as an objective assessment of quality.

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    Soup spoon season

    10 Houston chefs share 15 top soups that offer comfort and sustenance

    Brianna McClane
    Nov 12, 2026 | 2:30 pm
    Phanh Ky Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang,
    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy
    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

    Happy soup season to all who celebrate. The weather has finally dipped low enough in Houston that diners can enjoy a hearty bowl of soup without breaking a sweat. With so many delicious selections at Houston restaurants, we turned to Houston's chef and other restaurant industry experts to find out which brothy creations are worth seeking out.

    The only rule? No one could nominate a soup from their own restaurant. Here’s what they had to say.

    Dana East, line cook, Uchi Houston

    To Dana East of Uchi Houston, the caldo de res at Ruchi Mexican Grille’s Reliant Stadium location “feels like home to me… Even though I’m not Mexican.”

    “The caldo de res at that specific Ruchi's tastes like it was made in a Mexican grandmother's kitchen, or like soups that I would eat for family meal that kitchens I work in would make when everybody is sick during the winter,” she says.

    East also recommends the Bogotano at Mi Pueblito, a soup made with three kinds of potatoes that she says “imbue a smoky flavor in it that is borderline addictive.”

    “I could eat an entire pot of that stuff,” she says. “They serve it with fresh cream and capers that take it to the next level.”

    Garrett Rice, owner, Bayou Butchers

    The cream of crab soup at Loch Bar is a highlight that Garrett Rice of Bayou Butchers looks forward to after work.

    “It’s a simple dish that lets a really good ingredient shine, and they certainly don’t shy away from the crab in true Baltimore fashion,” Rice says. “With Loch Bar’s kitchen open late, I can always count on a cup of crab soup waiting for me after a long shift.”

    German Mosquera, executive chef, Long Weekend

    When German Mosquera of Long Weekend wants ramen, he heads to Mensho, the Japan-based chain that just opened its second Houston-area location on the border of River Oaks and Montrose.

    “For me, it’s all about the broth,” he says. “Mensho’s tori paitan has a rich, velvety texture and incredible umami flavor from start to finish. The perfectly jammy egg adds another layer of richness that keeps me coming back. I also love the intimate Tokyo-style counter seating. It makes for an authentic ramen experience.”

    Kerry Pauly, owner, KP’s Kitchen

    The matzo ball soup at Kenny and Ziggy’s is “in a league of its own,” according to Kerry Pauly of KP’s Kitchen. He describes it as “rich, flavorful, and pure comfort whether you’re sick or feeling great.”

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner, Alora

    “My favorite go-to spot for soup has always been Phanh Ky,” says Louis Lamson Quy of Alora, a Peruvian-Vietnamese fusion restaurant in Montrose. “They specialize in hủ tiếu nam vang, a noodle dish with roots tracing back to Teochew Chinese immigrants in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. It’s also one of the most popular noodle dishes in my hometown, Saigon, so it always feels a little like home to me.

    “To me, Phanh Ky is one of the OGs in the game,” he adds. “I first tried it when I moved to Houston nine years ago, and I’ve been coming back ever since. There’s just something comforting about a place that stays consistent after all these years.”

    Maria Christie, operator and general manager, Christie’s Seafood and Steaks

    “I love, love the lemon chicken soup at Harry’s,” says Maria Christie of Christie’s Seafood and Steaks. "For me the soup at Harry’s reminds me of the way my mom would make the lemon soup.”

    “And the lentil soup (at Anonymous Cafe) is really hearty and it just reminds me of cold winter days (whenever we get those in Houston!),” she adds. “It’s absolutely perfect because it has a hint of tomato in it. Deeeelicious!”

    Her sister, Kathy Christie, who serves as Christie's director of catering, is a fan of Little Pappasito's chicken tortilla soup. “Whenever you are under the weather, it totally hits the spot,” Kathy says. She adds extra lime to hers.

    Nicole Routhier, partner and culinary ambassador, Le Colonial

    The bun bo hue at Pho Quynh, a small Vietnamese restaurant located inside 99 Ranch Market, is a year round must for Nicole Routhier of Le Colonial.

    “Their spicy, deeply flavorful broth is super comforting and among the best in town. The chef is generous with the noodles and toppings of tender beef brisket, pork shank, gio Hue (steamed pork sausage with black peppercorns), and blood pudding. The soup comes with a side of shaved cabbage, crunchy bean sprouts, Vietnamese mint (rau ram), and a wedge of lime to be added to the soup as you eat. Two tiny containers of fermented shrimp sauce (mam tom) and spicy chili oil are also provided so you can add even more umami to the soup,” Routhier says. “Bun bo hue is a full meal on its own, and my idea of heaven in a bowl.”

    Oscar Juarez, founder and owner, Make It Nice Hospitality

    The pozole verde at Cuchara is a simple and flavorful dish that private chef Oscar Juarez of Make It Nice Hospitality says he would recommend to anyone.

    “The broth has a nice balance of richness and acidity, and it’s just one of those dishes that’s comforting without being too heavy,” Juarez says. “Growing up with Mexican food, I have a real appreciation for dishes like this.”

    Rafael Nasr, founder, Craft Pita

    Rafael Nasr of Craft Pita says he has “a burning passion for North China’s sizzling rice soup.”

    He describes it as an intensely flavored, crystal-clear broth with bits of pork and tiny shrimp to fill you up.

    “The carrot, napa cabbage, and wood ear mushrooms add umami and I am convinced have healing powers,” he says. “The flash fried rice adds texture and flavor at the same time and whether served table side or at home provide dinner and a show. I eat this soup and talk about it more than any soup in Houston.”

    Nasr’s pro tip: Add a bit of soy sauce and lots of North China’s housemade green chili oil to the soup.

    Ziggy Gruber, chef and owner, Kenny & Ziggy’s

    Ziggy Gruber of Kenny & Ziggy’s has a couple of favorite soups in town, which isn’t surprising since his own deli is known for its bowl selection. Among his favorites is the clam chowder at Capital Grille, which he says captures the true flavor of the East Coast with plenty of clams and just the right amount of thyme.

    He also loves the French onion soup at Etoile Cuisine et Bar.

    “The stock is very rich and the onions are extracted so the flavor is permeated throughout the soup. I like that it has multiple croutons rather than one crouton in the soup,” he says. “And then the cheese on top!”

    Another top pick for Ziggy is the tortilla soup at Grace’s.“It is complicated in such a good way, with the crunchy bits of tortillas and chicken skin, with the coolness of the avocado, and it has just the right amount of spice,” he says.

    Phanh Ky H\u1ee7 Ti\u1ebfu Nam Vang,

    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

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