A Big Bad Chef

He's back! Chef Randy Rucker's long-awaited return shows promise — new restaurant's no carbon copy

El Big Bad, the bigger, badder version of Heights gastrocantina El Gran Malo, is set to open in early November in the former Cabo/Pepper Jack's space on Market Square. To give diners a preview of the new menu, designed by former Rainbow Lodge/Bootsie's Heritage Cafe chef Randy Rucker, the restaurant held two preview dinners this week.

Although both the decor and the food are still a work in progress, the dinner demonstrates the way that El Big Bad's larger space allows for more dishes than the tacos that are El Gran Malo's signature.

Dinner began with a demonstration by third generation jimador (agave farmer) Jose Cortes. Cortes showed how he uses a traditional tool to harvest agave plants. In a matter of minutes, he thrust the tool at the tall plant, chopping away the thick leaves to reveal the large pineapple-shaped fruit that eventually becomes tequila. Short of going to Mexico for the agave harvest, it's the closest any of us will get to the process that brings tequila to tables.

It wasn't perfect, but there's enough talent in the kitchen to fix the problems.

With the entertainment portion of the evening complete, Rucker, executive chef Ben Rabbani and newly hired sous chef Mark Parmley began to serve eight courses — six savory and two sweet. Generally, the preview revealed a new, seafood-oriented direction for El Big Bad that reflects both Rucker and Rabbani's commitment to utilizing local ingredients whenever possible.

The meal began with ceviche. Both Rucker and Rabbani have tons of experience preparing the dish. This version had a sweet, spicy flavor with a little salty pop from capers. Next up, serrano-marinated Gulf shrimp that had diners reaching for the cooling refreshment of the paired sweet, hibiscus-infused cocktail. Both of these courses preview the raw bar that co-owner Steve Sharma tells CultureMap will be a part of the restaurant when it opens.

The next two courses seemed to be works in progress. A blue crab tostada had a crispy, salty crunch, but it felt as though the crab's flavor was lost between the fried tortilla and cheese. The mango and beet salad that followed had an interesting concept, but the mango sauce had a runny texture that made it hard to eat.

Thankfully, things took a turn for the better with a chicken tamale. The masa uses Mangalitsa pork that gave it an incredibly light, almost fluffy texture. Topped with mole, it had a subtle spiciness that had people near me asking for seconds. Expect them to be a lunch menu staple.

Whole-roasted Texas redfish showed a slight reluctance to pull away from the bones cleanly, but the fish's chimichurri enhanced flavor more than made up for it being a little undercooked. Hopefully, practice makes perfect.

Desserts showed a surprisingly adeptness with pastry, particularly the buttery crust of the apple tostada, although the included crema was more like cream cheese in its overall thickness and consistency. Cinnamon covered churros with a rich chocolate dipping sauce finished the meal.

It wasn't perfect, but there's enough talent in the kitchen to fix the problems. Owners Steve Sharma and Lea McKinney spent time both before and after talking to their guests. They understand what a big step up El Big Bad is for them and are determined to make it work.

Chicken tamales in sesame seed mole was the highlight of the meal.

Photo by Eric Sandler

Chicken tamales in sesame seed mole was the highlight of the meal.

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where to eat on Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving procrastinators: Reservations remain at these Houston restaurants

Courtesy of Culinary Khancepts

Dine on a three-course meal at Leo's River Oaks.

Houstonians who still don’t have plans for where they’re eating on Thanksgiving, which will be observed this Thursday, November 27, need not worry. With more and more Houston restaurants open for the holiday, procrastinators still have plenty of choices available.

This roundup includes some fine dining options with prix fixe menus, a couple of decadent buffets, and a few lower priced, a la carte options, including one that can be picked up from a drive-thru. All of the establishments listed below had reservations available as of Monday, November 24, but that will change as Thanksgiving approaches.

Courtesy of Culinary Khancepts

Dine on a three-course meal at Leo's River Oaks.

Note that this guide focuses on restaurants serving a version of traditional Thanksgiving fare. Dozens of restaurants in Chinatown and other Asian-focused districts will also be open — and busy — on Thursday.

Amrina
Put a masala-spiced spin on Thanksgiving with this restaurant’s five-course, $95 menu. Choices include pumpkin-spiced pani puri, Mulligatawny velouté with turkey kofta, and turkey kebab. Entree choices — including roasted turkey breast, filet mignon, and tiger prawns — are matched with family-style sides such as mashed potatoes, cranberry chutney, and spinach and corn casserole. Pumpkin mascarpone cheese mousse leads the three dessert options.

Bar Bludorn
The Memorial tavern is serving a three-course, $75 menu that begins with starter choices such as oysters, steak tartare, endive salad, and squash soup. Entree selections include roast turkey, steak frites, and branzino, all of which can be paired with sides such as pommes puree, cranberries, and stuffing. Finish with one of three dessert selections.

Chardon
Visit this French restaurant in the Thompson Hotel for a three-course, family-style Thanksgiving meal. Priced at $75 per adult and $25 for kids five and above, it includes shareable portions of cornbread, deviled eggs, chestnut and celeriac soup, fennel and apple salad, and smoked duck and cranberry terrine. For the entree course, diners will share herb-roasted turkey, turkey leg cassoulet, and beef cheek bourguignon paired with traditional sides. For dessert, the restaurant will serve apple tart, maple profiteroles, and chocolate and hazelnut cake.

Cleburne Cafeteria
For those looking for a more affordable option, this Houston favorite will be open for both dine-in and to-go from from 11 am-8 pm with a full range of starters, sides, entrees, and desserts. Keep in mind that lines may be long.

Fielding’s River Oaks
The European-inspired restaurant will supplement its usual menu with Thanksgiving add-ons such as grilled turkey breast with garlic confit and sage gravy, orange cranberry chutney, brown butter sweet potato mash, and green bean casserole ($49), as well as Peking duck breast ($46), pumpkin spice parker house rolls ($18), and apple cinnamon crisp ($17).

Himalaya
On Thanksgiving, chef-owner Kaiser Lashkari adds masala-spiced turkey and dressing to his extensive menu of Indo-Pak fare. Remember, the restaurant is BYOB, so plan accordingly.

Juliet Steakhouse & Fine Dining
The Galleria-area restaurant will serve a Thanksgiving buffet from 12-9 pm. Priced at $59.95 for adults and $29.95 for kids, it includes a carving station with turkey, salmon, and filet mignon as well as sides such as mashed potatoes, green casserole, mac & cheese, and more. Additional items include lobster bisque, Caesar salad, and desserts.

King Ranch Texas Kitchen
The Galleria-area restaurant’s Thanksgiving Day buffet ($59 per adult, $25 per child), includes a carving station with turkey, ham, prime rib, and brisket, as well as spinach dip, Caesar salad, deviled eggs, King Ranch chicken empanadas, shrimp cocktail, and an extensive selection of sides and desserts.

King Steak
The recently-opened Galleria-area restaurant will serve a four-course, $70 Thanksgiving menu. The family-style meal includes shared appetizers including vegetable “charcuterie,” deviled eggs, and cornbread. Entree options include turkey, ham, and tenderloin ($10 supplement) paired with sides that include mashed potatoes, dressing, green bean casserole, candied yams, roasted carrots, Brussels sprouts, and cranberry sauce. Finish with pumpkin pie and pecan pie.

Kitchen Rumors
The eclectic, Indian-inspired eatery is serving a four-course, $65 menu. Begin with dishes such as lobster dumplings, crispy kale and wasabi peas, and blue cheese chicken kebab. Entree choices include turkey breast, filet mignon, shrimp and pumpkin stir fry, and two vegetarian options, all of which are paired with family-style sides such as mashed potatoes, cranberry chutney, garbanzo beans, and garlic naan. The meal concludes with either pumpkin halwa pie or chocolate cremeux.

Leo’s River Oaks
Winner of the Best New Restaurant in the 2025 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards, the restaurant will serve a three-course menu that begins with lobster bisque or kale salad. Choose turkey ($75) or chateaubriand ($85) for an entree, both of which are paired with family-style sides that include pomme puree, brown butter green beans, butternut squash stuffing, cranberry sauce, and a parker house roll. Dessert is pumpkin pie.

Navy Blue
The Rice Village seafood restaurant is offering a three-course, $85 menu (children 10 and under, two courses for $55). Starter choices include shrimp cocktail, Caesar salad, seafood gumbo, or crab cake. For an entree, select turkey roulade with sweet potato and stuffing, hanger steak with bone marrow herb butter, branzino, seared scallops, or tagliatelle with mushrooms, plus optional sides. The meal ends with one of four desserts.

Pappas Bar-B-Q
Get a Thanksgiving plate with turkey, ham, and sides for $21.95. Served from 9 am-6 pm, it’s the only meal on this list that can be picked up at a drive-thru. The restaurant will also be serving its full menu, which means people can pick up brisket, ribs, or pecan pie to supplement their Thanksgiving table.

Perseid
This French-inspired restaurant at the Hotel Saint Augustine will serve a three-course, $85 menu. Starter choices includes chicory salad, sunchoke soup, duck terrine, and hiramasa crudo. Go traditional with turkey roulade or mix things up with mushroom risotto, hanger steak, or salmon. Dessert choices include pumpkin pie and maple cake.

Saltgrass Steak House
The family-friendly restaurant will serve a Thanksgiving plate that includes roast turkey breast, dressing, gravy, garlic mashed potatoes, green bean casserole, cranberry sauce, and choice of salad or soup for $23.99.

Willie G’s
This seafood restaurant next to the Post Oak Hotel will serve an expansive Thanksgiving buffet that’s priced at $69 for adults and $29 for children. Expect a full spread of traditional Thanksgiving fare such as turkey, honey-roasted ham, stuffing, candied yams, and green bean casserole. In addition, diners will have access to a raw bar with oysters, smoked salmon, peel & eat shrimp, deviled egg, and spicy tuna rolls. Breads, pastries, and a couple of kid-specific dishes round out the offerings.

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