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    Rave 'n Rant

    How dare they murder my favorite magazine

    Janice Schindeler
    Oct 24, 2009 | 2:56 pm

    A few weeks ago when I was struggling with writer’s block— actually more like a deep freeze — my sympathetic editor, in an effort to help me break through, asked if I had deep feelings regarding the demise of Gourmet magazine.

    At that time I didn’t.

    Though a subscriber, I had several issues still in their decidedly ungreen clear plastic wrappers stacked and thus unread on the kitchen counter.

    At first it seemed silly to me to have strong feelings one way or another about the loss of the magazine. After all I had suffered much more serious losses.

    The death of the still mourned Houston Post cost me my food editor’s job.

    My parents’ deaths rocked my soul.

    Thrice I have lost my entire community as I followed my husband and his job around the world.

    And most recently the children have grown and left the nest, leaving me floundering for purpose.

    Upon reflection I realized that though all these life changes, Gourmet has been a constant. When in Australia and feeling a million miles from anywhere, Gourmet brought me tastes of interior Mexico. When the gray of the United Kingdom overwhelmed and the pub food of the Home Counties under whelmed, Gourmet’s sunny pages of vineyard feasts in California brought light.

    Then I remembered that when I first stated writing about food, I looked to it as a model. The succinct coverage of chefs and food items a stencil of sort. Reading Gourmet helped me organize my thoughts, focus on the critical issues. The exquisite photographs a springboard from which to jump when food styling for Ultra Magazine. And a nod of confirmation when a restaurant, chef or kitchen gadget I had written about received similar treatment from Gourmet.

    Yes I will miss Gourmet. But I will need to get over my anger first. On a recent blissful Sunday I caught up on my reading, plowing through the stack of unopened mail and magazines.

    And now I am mad.

    To sit with the stellar November issue, with its perfect golden brown turkey on the cover, and to realize this is the last Gourmet to shepherd me through the “cookingest” day of the year is simply infuriating.

    Worse, no Christmas cookie December issue to anticipate. Or at least I am assuming this is it. The publisher has not had the courtesy to contact me regarding the status of my account. Have they you?

    Indeed, rather then let us know exactly what is going on with our subscriptions, the ultimate insult came when the first thing I noticed upon tearing into the November issue was those always annoying and now insanely infuriating gift subscription cards. My reaction - total indignation.

    The presence of these cards screamed at me. Did the great publishing house of Conde Nasty hold the million plus subscribers in such contemptuous regard? First we received no notification from them as to this heinous act and secondly it seemed like some old carney trickery. What was this plea for new and even worse gift subscriptions when there would never be a future issue? Insulting.

    And then I read the interview of Gourmet editor Ruth Reichl in the New York Times magazine, revealing that the termination of publication was as big a surprise to her as it was to us.

    We as readers may have lost a loved publication, but many workers lost their jobs. The instant unemployment of countless production workers, columnists, photographers and staff writers reawakened my memories of the brutal closing day of The Houston Post. The heartless inhumanity of the act in these particular economic times, with the holiday season looming ahead, staggers the imagination.

    Yes, dear editor, thanks for the nudge. I turns out I do have strong feelings. The death, nay, the murder of the magazine is a heartless, disrespectful act, that has me feeling helpless and wanting to climb to a tall peak and scream, “How dare they?”

    But this I know. With every loss there is a lesson learned, growth happens.

    Change, while painful, is good. I now view my parents’ deaths as the final step in the cycle of life. My years overseas taught me communities exist everywhere if you take the time to build them. The empty nest allows me time for self exploration and thankfully, still requires occasional fluffing when the prodigal off spring home for visits of quality, Job losses have lead to new, far more satisfying opportunities.

    I will miss Gourmet with its pulse on the global food scene while simultaneously bringing the best of the American food to my mailbox every month

    In this maddening world of disregard and surprise I will survive Christmas by digging out all my old December Gourmets. No doubt when Easter, July 4th and next year’s Thanksgiving rolls around I will revisit the appropriate past issues, now stacked up on shelves like my mother in-law’s revered National Geographic.

    I suggest you do the same.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    raising the steaks

    Houston's new, all-you-can-eat wagyu beef restaurant opens this week

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 29, 2026 | 12:11 pm
    Wagyu House food spread
    Courtesy of Wagyu House
    Meals at Wagyu House also include sushi, dumplings, and more.

    While Houston has undeniably evolved as a restaurant city, local diners still love a good steak. Beginning this Friday, a new restaurant will give the city an all-you-can-eat wagyu experience.

    Meet Wagyu House. Opening this Friday, May 1 in the former Peli Peli space in the Galleria (5085 Westheimer Suite 2515), the Japanese barbecue restaurant is the latest project from Chubby Group, a wagyu-focused hospitality company that first made a splash locally with Mikiya Wagyu Shabu House, an all-you-can-eat, wagyu-based shabu shabu concept that opened in 2024.

    “Houston is a fantastic city with a very vibrant culture about Asian food,” Chubby Group partner David Zhao tells CultureMap. “Experiencing domestic wagyu, Australian wagyu, and A5 wagyu from Japan, the customers have been very fond of that, and we’ve seen that in the feedback. That’s why we’re very excited to bring more of our concepts here.”

    What distinguishes Wagyu House from, say, a typical Korean barbecue restaurant is that all of its meats are wagyu — either domestic, Australian, or Japanese. The restaurant offers four tiers of pricing — silver, gold, diamond, or black diamond — that each offer increased access to more premium cuts of beef. For example, silver includes less premium cuts of both domestic and Australian wagyu such as chuck, brisket, and shoulder. Stepping up to gold adds in a limited amount of those same cuts from Japan, while diamond offers unlimited meats from all three countries.

    Each tier also includes a selection of unlimited appetizers and snacks, such as gyoza, shrimp tempura, salmon nigiri, yellowtail nigiri, and fountain drinks. Prices start at around $55 for silver and go up to about $100 for diamond, plus any alcoholic beverages and tip. Considering Japanese wagyu can sell at restaurants for $40 or more per ounce, the restaurant offers a lot of value for meat lovers.

    “It’s very difficult to get that kind of pricing,” Zhao says. “We supply the cuts and we buy the cattle as a whole instead of a third party. Because of that, we’re able to provide significant value to our customers.”

    The restaurant also runs a higher food cost than most, at close to 40 percent. To make money, the restaurant needs to be busy all the time, Zhao explains.

    “The only way we’re profitable is to squeeze our occupancy cost to three or four percent instead of 13 percent,” he says. “Our dollar per square foot has to be ridiculous. We have to have lines out the door. We have to pack the house daily.”

    Wagyu House offers diners the opportunity to get even lower pricing by joining its membership program. Priced at $58 per year, members receive lower pricing on their meals as well as access to a concierge service that will make priority reservations that allow them to skip ahead of non-members for tables. As Zhao points out, members earn back the cost after two or three visits, making it a useful option for the restaurant’s most ardent fans. Even better, it’s valid at all of the company’s locations, which will grow to as many as 100 by the end of 2026.

    All-you-can-eat concepts are having a moment in Houston, especially with sushi, where restaurants like Seven Sushi & Robata are drawing crowds. Wagyu House is a more premium experience, but Zhao understands why these concepts appeal to diners.

    “There's a dopamine hit when you go to a restaurant and you don’t have to think about menu pricing,” Zhao says. “You get value. That’s a big component. You don’t have to worry about what you order. You can have it all at an amazing price point.”

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    news/restaurants-bars
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