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    Foodie News

    The Next Iron Chef? Ballerina linebacker Bryan Caswell can't reel in a fishvictory

    Sarah Rufca
    Oct 17, 2010 | 11:31 pm
    • Caswell came out on top in the fishing boat but not at the judging table.
    • But Caswell is still impressive enough to be a prime contender to win it all.

    "I'm a fish guy. I do this every day. If I can't win a fishing challenge, maybe I deserve to go home."

    So says Reef's Bryan Caswell on the third episode of The Next Iron Chef.

    Obviously Caswell has never heard of the reality TV gods, who enact harsh vengeance on any competitor who dare lay down such a boast.

    But while the fishing expedition loomed large from the previews, the episode opens with a more land-friendly challenge of pickles. Jars and jars of pickles, as far as the eye can see, or at least enough to cover the display table.

    Caswell puts forward a "Barcelona Red Hot," which looked like a spicy pickled tomato stuffed with an andouille and pork belly rillette.

    Caswell's dish earns three nods from his fellow competitors for best dish, but he's beaten by New York chef Marc Forgione's duck liver crostini in a rematch of last week's chairman's challenge top two. And it's refreshing to see both men vote for each other and not their own dish. Classy guys.

    Soon it is onto the boat, where the chefs have to catch their own two-course dinner ingredients — the episode's theme is "resourcefulness." Apparently the ocean is full of scorpion fish (who knew!), because they made up 90 percent of the catches. Caswell showed off his skills, pulling in five scorpion fish and two sand dabs to have the most fish.

    Cooking is enlivened by a mixing bowl fire courtesy of chef Celina Tio and Marco Canora's missing artichokes. Though they are eventually found in the trash, his immediate jump to "sabotage!" smacks of feeling just a bit too important.

    Caswell serves a warm seafood salad with scorpion fish and chile shrimp as his first course, and a sand dab carpaccio with grapefruit, using the sand dab roe he found in a sac inside the fish.

    His dishes render judge Michael Symon nearly speechless as he praises it as "slick," while Simon Majumdar makes the fantastic observation that Caswell "looks like a linebacker and cooks like a ballerina."

    But when it comes to selecting a top two, Caswell misses the cut, with honors going to winner Canora, who turns his three pitiful scorpion fish into his old world/new world versions of cacciucco (an Italian fish stew) and to chef Duskie Estes, who comes out near the top with her bacon-wrapped sardine and seared scorpion fish despite losing the intro challenge almost unanimously.

    The two obvious low scorers are Maneet Chauhan and Mary Dumont, who has yet to serve a dish that impressed and says goodbye. With so many chefs now firing on all cylinders, it's obvious that any mistake can send you home.

    We have to wonder if Caswell's fish splendor took away from his resourcefulness score, since the chef who caught the least fish earned the brass ring. Is using less fish to make good food more resourceful than, I don't know, catching more fish?

    It's arguable, but since the judges liked what Caswell put in front of them (and the reality TV gods gave him a reprieve) than we'll take it and be happy.

    Next week is all about ... condiments? Interesting.

    Until then Houston foodies can vote for Caswell (or whoever else they want) in the online fan vote.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    when I dip, you dip

    Heights restaurant's new lunch service will only offer 1 sandwich

    Eric Sandler
    May 22, 2026 | 3:30 pm
    La Lucha french dip sandwich
    Courtesy of La Lucha
    La Lucha will begin serving French dips on Friday, June 12.

    If a sandwich hall of fame existed, one of its plaques would surely be devoted to the French dip. Its combination of thinly-sliced beef, tangy horseradish sauce, and a savory au jus is a winning formula.

    Beginning Friday, June 12, Heights restaurant La Lucha will be showcasing two takes on the venerable sandwich when it starts serving them for its new Friday-only lunch service, which will be held from 11 am-2 pm. To be clear, the two sandwiches (plus fries) will be the only menu items available at lunch — apologies to anyone hoping to ease into the weekend with La Lucha staples like fried chicken or the pharmacy burger.

    The two sandwich choices are: a West Coast style French dip that’s just shaved meat and au jus or an East Coast style that adds provolone and caramelized onions. Both are served with horseradish aioli on bread from Houston’s Royal Bakery that “gets crispy and delicious,” according to executive chef Bobby Matos.

    The meat is the same prime rib that newly opened steak joint Star Rover, La Lucha’s sister restaurant, serves as part of its viral, “I ate the 76’er” eating challenge. Priced at $26, the sandwich offers a healthy seven ounces of thinly-sliced beef.

    “They’ve done this at Little Sparrow in Atlanta but for late night. It’s been a huge success and people are digging it,” Matos explains about the motivation to introduce the offering.

    Limiting the menu to two variations of the same sandwich, fries, and beverages — both alcoholic and non-alcoholic — allows La Lucha to offer its Friday lunch service more easily than if Matos had to staff the kitchen to parepare its full menu.

    “It’s just bringing more people to the Heights and giving them a chance to get to know our restaurants,” Matos adds. “There are still people who don’t know about La Lucha, and it’s been eight years.”

    Although Matos moved to Texas from California, he says he prefers the East Coast French dip. “I want cheese and onions on mine. I like cheese on French dips,” he says.

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