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    Foodie News

    The Next Iron Chef? Ballerina linebacker Bryan Caswell can't reel in a fishvictory

    Sarah Rufca
    Oct 17, 2010 | 11:31 pm
    • Caswell came out on top in the fishing boat but not at the judging table.
    • But Caswell is still impressive enough to be a prime contender to win it all.

    "I'm a fish guy. I do this every day. If I can't win a fishing challenge, maybe I deserve to go home."

    So says Reef's Bryan Caswell on the third episode of The Next Iron Chef.

    Obviously Caswell has never heard of the reality TV gods, who enact harsh vengeance on any competitor who dare lay down such a boast.

    But while the fishing expedition loomed large from the previews, the episode opens with a more land-friendly challenge of pickles. Jars and jars of pickles, as far as the eye can see, or at least enough to cover the display table.

    Caswell puts forward a "Barcelona Red Hot," which looked like a spicy pickled tomato stuffed with an andouille and pork belly rillette.

    Caswell's dish earns three nods from his fellow competitors for best dish, but he's beaten by New York chef Marc Forgione's duck liver crostini in a rematch of last week's chairman's challenge top two. And it's refreshing to see both men vote for each other and not their own dish. Classy guys.

    Soon it is onto the boat, where the chefs have to catch their own two-course dinner ingredients — the episode's theme is "resourcefulness." Apparently the ocean is full of scorpion fish (who knew!), because they made up 90 percent of the catches. Caswell showed off his skills, pulling in five scorpion fish and two sand dabs to have the most fish.

    Cooking is enlivened by a mixing bowl fire courtesy of chef Celina Tio and Marco Canora's missing artichokes. Though they are eventually found in the trash, his immediate jump to "sabotage!" smacks of feeling just a bit too important.

    Caswell serves a warm seafood salad with scorpion fish and chile shrimp as his first course, and a sand dab carpaccio with grapefruit, using the sand dab roe he found in a sac inside the fish.

    His dishes render judge Michael Symon nearly speechless as he praises it as "slick," while Simon Majumdar makes the fantastic observation that Caswell "looks like a linebacker and cooks like a ballerina."

    But when it comes to selecting a top two, Caswell misses the cut, with honors going to winner Canora, who turns his three pitiful scorpion fish into his old world/new world versions of cacciucco (an Italian fish stew) and to chef Duskie Estes, who comes out near the top with her bacon-wrapped sardine and seared scorpion fish despite losing the intro challenge almost unanimously.

    The two obvious low scorers are Maneet Chauhan and Mary Dumont, who has yet to serve a dish that impressed and says goodbye. With so many chefs now firing on all cylinders, it's obvious that any mistake can send you home.

    We have to wonder if Caswell's fish splendor took away from his resourcefulness score, since the chef who caught the least fish earned the brass ring. Is using less fish to make good food more resourceful than, I don't know, catching more fish?

    It's arguable, but since the judges liked what Caswell put in front of them (and the reality TV gods gave him a reprieve) than we'll take it and be happy.

    Next week is all about ... condiments? Interesting.

    Until then Houston foodies can vote for Caswell (or whoever else they want) in the online fan vote.

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    news/restaurants-bars

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    Slowpokes is coming

    Sawyer Yards cafe closes as Astro-owned Houston coffee brand pivots

    Eric Sandler
    Jan 2, 2026 | 3:39 pm
    Maven Coffee Sawyer Yards interior
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Maven Coffee's interior will be renovated to reflect Slowpokes' style.

    A Houston hospitality group is shifting from operating cafes to selling coffee products to as many people as possible. Rex Hospitality’s decision to focus on products such as cold brew concentrate means that Maven Coffee in Sawyer Yards has closed, but the space will soon reopen as the newest outpost of a growing Houston coffee shop.

    Rex partner Juan Carlos de Aldecoa tells CultureMap that he and his business partners, attorney Jimmy Doan and Astros pitcher Lance McCullers Jr., have turned over the property to Slowpokes, the growing Houston coffee shop with locations in Garden Oaks, the East End, Levy Park, and more. While Rex is still operating Maven Coffee’s shop at the Thompson Hotel, the company is actively searching for a new operator who would keep the location open as Maven but free it from day-to-day oversight. The future of Maven’s coffee and cocktail stands at Toyota Center and Daikin Park has yet to be decided.

    “The cafes are brand plays for us,” de Aldecoa says. “We’re shifting that a bit. We still have more locations coming, but they won’t be operated by us. They’ll be licensing deals in different developments. That’s our new model.”

    Instead, the company will focus on growing Maven Coffee Company, which sells cold brew concentrate and other coffee products to both restaurants and directly to consumers. “We’ve had a record month-over-month. If we put the right amount of time and effort into this project, we can make a big impact. I feel that’s where our resources are best utilized,” de Aldecoa says.

    Later, he adds, “We’re in 14 different metros. We’d like to increase that to about 50 through our concentrate and having different sorts of products such as RTDs.”

    Rex opened Maven at Sawyer Yards in October 2024. Intended to be an all-day cafe, it served coffee and breakfast in the morning as well as a sophisticated dinner menu that included everything from roast chicken and spicy rigatoni to steak and octopus.

    Coming Soon to Sawyer Yards

    Slowpokes owner Mazen Baltagi tells CultureMap that, after building a friendship with de Aldecoa, he welcomed the opportunity to bring his coffee shop to Sawyer Yards. Having assumed control of the space on January 1, he’s optimistic that the new Slowpokes will open in March. Plans call for replacing the current interior with more homey fabrics and installing vintage speakers that are more in line with Slowpokes’ other shops. He thinks the location is ideal for Slowpokes, which has built a devoted following by selling coffee, beer, and wine that are paired with a diverse food menu built around sandwiches, flatbread pizzas, and breakfast items.

    “If you look at all of our locations, most of them aren’t necessarily in high-traffic areas. They’re in underserved areas — besides [nearby] Catalina Coffee, which we’re huge fans of, but they don’t have food [other than pastries] or Wi-Fi,” Baltagi says.

    In particular, Baltagi thinks Slowpokes will appeal both to area residents looking for a coffee shop where they can get a little work done and to people exercising at nearby gyms such as Orange Theory and Momentum Climbing Gym. Slowpokes will also build on some of Maven’s existing events, such as the monthly Cars & Coffee gathering and a weekly run club.

    “I think it’s a phenomenal brand that can get to 25-plus locations in the Houston area and throughout the state,” de Aldecoa says about Slowpokes. “I think they do a great job. They’ve figured out how to do it at scale. I’m excited for them, and they have a great model.”

    closingsnews-you-can-eatopeningscoffee
    news/restaurants-bars

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