Hot Chef Bolts Austin For H-Town

Hot young chef abandons Austin's unprofessional sushi scene for a small restaurant near Houston

Why would 25-year old sushi chef Jason Liao abandon a successful career as a sushi chef in Austin to open a 38-seat restaurant dubbed Preview: Modern Seafood in a Sugar Land strip center?

"No guts. No glory," the chef tells CultureMap.

Although he worked at Austin sushi restaurants like Umi Sushi Bar and Nanami Sushi Bar, Liao says he's tired of "unprofessional" practices like marking out the price of a menu item and replacing it with a handwritten one. "Burned out" by Austin, he decided there has to be a better way to serve seafood and he's returned home to Houston to start over.

"It's a transition time for Houston (restaurants)," Liao says. He cites restaurants like Oxheart and Underbelly as inspiration and the was drawn by the lure of being part of a "big movement. I want to be a part of it." But not with a sushi restaurant.

"Burned out" by Austin, Liao decided there has to be a better way to serve seafood and he's returned home to Houston to start over.

"Sushi bars are like Chinese restaurants now," Liao explains. "They have the same menu layout, the same items." Instead, Preview will feature a flexible, seasonal menu with items that change every couple of weeks. He's working with Ora King for salmon and will leverage his other connections to bring in fish from Japan and elsewhere.

In a style that sounds similar to Cove Cold Bar, dishes will be slightly larger than tasting menu portions.

"I'm against the traditional setup of appetizers, entrees, desserts," Liao says. He believes it doesn't make sense for diners to "spend $38 on salmon" when a more affordable, smaller portion delivers the same flavors and experience. He concedes that the small plates concept can "get a little expensive," but thinks Sugar Land diners, who are typically seen as gravitating towards more family-friendly fare, will embrace the restaurant.

"No one has done it yet," Liao says of this style of restaurant in the suburb, but he thinks it "will eventually catch on." A family friend owns the space, and former customers have become investors. Can a small, chef-driven, dinner-only restaurant succeed in the suburbs?

"It's only 38 seats," Liao says. "I'm not trying to turn tables."

Preview will feature Ora King salmon from New Zealand as in this dish that includes an apple emulsion, edamame puree and pickled lemon.

Preview Modern Seafood Cuisine New Zealand ora king salmon with apple emulsion, edamame puree and pickled lemon

Photo by © Ruby Chu

Preview will feature Ora King salmon from New Zealand as in this dish that includes an apple emulsion, edamame puree and pickled lemon.

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true to forme

Beard-recognized Houston chef's rooftop restaurant now open in Midtown

Photo by Rebekah Flores

The Branch serves breakfast daily.

A two-time James Beard Award finalist has opened his latest project. The Branch, a new concept from chef Chris Williams, officially opens this Thursday, October 1.

Part of Williams’ Lucille’s Hospitality Group, The Branch is intended to be a wellness-focused concept that utilizes seasonal ingredients and a rotating raw bar. Located on the 12th floor of the Forme, a luxury high-rise at 5501 La Branch, the 20,000-square-foot space offers both dining and lounge spaces along with a rooftop patio. It’s open for breakfast daily along with lunch and dinner Thursday-Sunday.

In the morning, diners may opt for the Harvest Table, a $20, Continental-style breakfast that includes pastries, a yogurt and honey bar, cheese, charcuterie, and fresh fruit. A la carte selections consist of staples such as chilaquiles, avocado and tuna toast, a crab cake Benedict, a Southwest omelet (black beans, corn, and avocado topped with pico de gallo, crema, and arugula salad), and more.

At lunch and dinner, the raw bar menu starts with a daily crudo special, oysters with bourbon mignonette, a tuna toastada, shrimp cocktail, and more. From there, diners turn to the “Fresh & Pressed” section of sandwiches, including Williams’ take on a club, Cuban, and a vegetarian pressed sandwich. Salads, wings, cheese, and charcuterie round out the daytime selections.

They’re paired with a number of house cocktails, beer, and wines by-the-glass. Two desserts complete the experience. Many of the cocktails are low ABV and can be made spirit-free.

Lucille’s Hospitality Group is known for its Southern-inspired Museum District restaurant Lucille’s and Lucille’s 1913, a nonprofit that operates farms that provide access to fresh food in underserved areas.

“We’re excited to partner with The Forme,” Williams said in a statement. “It’s not only an opportunity to utilize our culinary toolkit through room service and an entirely different dining experience across the street from Lucille’s, but it’s also another opportunity to create equity in one of the country’s most dynamic culinary cities. The space itself is truly special, with some of the best views in Houston and a setting unlike anything else in the city. We’re excited to create an experience that complements the neighborhood that has been our home for the past 17 years.”

The Forme is a 33-story high-rise that’s focused on wellness, productivity, and community. In addition to The Branch, its amenities include a 20,000-square-foot fitness and recovery area, a 9,000-square-foot outdoor pool deck with pool and expansive hot tub, and 20,000 square feet of flexible coworking space.

Photo by Rebekah Flores

The Branch serves breakfast daily.