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    Introducing Theodore Rex

    After Harvey cleanup, acclaimed chef Justin Yu's new restaurant is ready to open

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 5, 2017 | 8:28 am

    One day before Hurricane Harvey made its landfall, Justin Yu and chef de cuisine Jason White opened the doors to Theodore Rex, Yu’s follow-up to Oxheart, for an invite-only friends and family service. It would have quietly opened that weekend, but, as Yu told the House of Carbs podcast, “just under two feet of water” flooded the space and scuttled those plans.

    Thankfully, Yu and his team got the mess cleaned up, and the new restaurant officially opens to the public Friday night. In a statement issued Thursday morning, the James Beard Award winner describes his new restaurant as “in the plainest of terms, it’s a modern bistro, though more importantly I just hope that it’s a fun place to go to.”

    While the space has been thoroughly renovated for its new incarnation — most noticeably a four-seat bar replaces the chef's counter — some elements of Oxheart remain. On the personnel side, sous chef Jason White has been promoted to chef de cuisine, server Bridget Paliwoda has returned to be the restaurant’s sommelier, and both general manager Diana Kendrick and beverage director Justin Vann (Yu’s business partner in Public Services) remain in place. In terms of design, diners will still reset their own silverware from drawers integrated into the tables, which is a nice connection between the two concepts.

    The food, however, will be all new. Whereas dishes at Oxheart tended to stay on the menu for months at a time, Yu writes that he and White will work with local producers to source ingredients for a menu that will change weekly. In addition, some limited quantity dishes like a whole roasted pork collar or braised grouper cheeks will appear as they are available.

    "It is food that both speak of a restaurant in time and place, and a restaurant that can be visited every week and we hope will still never be boring," Yu writes.

    T. Rex’s menu hasn’t appeared online yet, but Tony’s chef de cuisine Austin Waiter shared a few images on Instagram from Monday night’s invite-only service. Dishes like fried onions and a bowl of sliced persimmons are in keeping with Yu’s vegetable-forward aesthetic, but the steak in the last picture gives some indication of the ways that T. Rex represents a new direction.

    Great start to a new beginning!#dinosaursofinstagram

    A post shared by Austin Waiter (@awaiter25) on

    Oct 2, 2017 at 6:26pm PDT

    In both the early days and at the end of its run, securing reservations to Oxheart could be extremely difficult. While most of T. Rex’s tables appear to have already been snapped up online, the bar and some of the tables are reserved for walk-ins. Diners may call the restaurant for an update on wait times.

    As for the inspiration behind all these changes, Yu writes that a smoked beef rib dish he served as part of his meal at the 12 days of Christmas at the Restaurant at Meadowood helped motivate the decision to close Oxheart and move in this new direction.

    “My heart wasn’t in tasting menus anymore. I’m sure my mind will change in the future, but the format seemed more daunting than fun,” Yu writes. “It was challenging, but it wasn’t nearly as fun cooking small bits of food that valued consistency and creativity over seasonality and soul. And so we closed.”

    Just because he’s trying to cook with “seasonality and soul” doesn’t mean Theodore Rex, which Yu named after his nephew, is any less ambitious than Oxheart. In July, Yu wrote a Facebook post looking for employees in which he noted that “We want to be the best restaurant in Houston. Whatever that means.”

    Starting Friday, diners will get to decide for themselves whether he and his team are achieving that goal.
    -----
    Theodore Rex; 1302 Nance Street; 5 pm to 10 pm Thursday through Monday; 832-830-8592

    Sommelier Bridget Paliwoda, chef de cuisine Jason White, general manager Diana Kendrick, and chef-owner Justin Yu.

    Theodore Rex Bridget Paliwoda Jason White Diana Kendrick Justin Yu
    Photo by Jenn Duncan
    Sommelier Bridget Paliwoda, chef de cuisine Jason White, general manager Diana Kendrick, and chef-owner Justin Yu.
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    Chris Cusack explains

    Houston bar owner speaks out about surprise arrest for health code violations

    Eric Sandler
    May 11, 2026 | 3:50 pm
    Chris Cusack
    Photo by Sergio Trevino
    Chris Cusack owns two locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse.

    Certainly one of the most unusual interactions between a restaurant and City of Houston officials took place on Wednesday, May 6 when Betelgeuse Betelgeuse owner Chris Cusack was arrested for health code violations at his location on Washington Avenue.

    News of the arrest spread quickly across social media over the weekend. Now, Cusack is ready to tell his side of the story.

    Cusack, whose time operating restaurants in Houston goes back more than 15 years to Down House and its affiliated restaurants such as Hunky Dory and D&T Drive Inn, tells CultureMap the problem began on Monday, May 4 when a health department inspector came to Betelgeuse Betelgeuse and asked to see the restaurant’s grease trap.

    The only problem is that location has never had a grease trap. Prior to becoming Betelgeuse Betelgeuse, it was Liberty Station, a pioneering bar in Houston’s craft beer and craft cocktail scenes. In the early days, Betelgeuse served food from a food truck. More recently, it prepares its food next door at The Bell and Crane. Cusack acknowledges he didn’t share this information with the inspector.

    “Usually I’m a charmer with the health department, but I was a little defensive. She kept asking me. I said, ‘ma’am, we don’t make food here,’” he explains. “The tone wasn’t my finest moment, but there was no name calling or anything like that. She said, ‘where does the food come from?’ I said, ‘it doesn’t matter where it comes from. It’s produced in a commercial kitchen.’”

    Cusack says he knew there would be a follow up, but he was shocked when the inspector returned two days later with more colleagues from the health department, TABC inspectors, and Houston Police Department officers.

    “I got somewhere between 21 and 25 citations,” Cusack says about the return visit. He got dinged for everything from graffiti in the bathroom to a missing Harris County tax stamp on the photo booth he leases from a vendor (it has both State of Texas and City of Houston stamps, Cusack says).

    One inspector told Cusack he needed a food dealer’s permit. He showed the inspector that a food dealer’s permit had been issued for the restaurant's address under the former food truck’s LLC but not to the LLC that operates Betelgeuse Betelgeuse. Cusack says he had renewed the food truck’s permit in March, but that wasn’t good enough for the inspector. In Cusack’s telling, he was arrested for not having the permit, since it was also flagged as missing in an inspection from October 2025. He's the only person he knows who has ever been arrested for a misdemeanor violation of the health code.

    Cusack says he spent 21 hours in the Harris County Jail. When he got out, he says he was contacted by a more senior official within the Health Department. Once Cusack confirmed he owned both LLCs, he was told he could reopen. Both locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse have been operating normally since Friday, May 8.

    Cusack maintains he never knew about the October 2025 inspection, which is why he renewed the food dealer’s permit for the food truck’s LLC rather than applying for one under Betelgeuse Betelgeuse’s LLC. “There’s no paper trail that shows I was given this information,” he says. “I did not get the email [from the Health Department].”

    As for why things got so out of hand, Cusack theorizes he was a victim of Houston Mayor John Whitemire’s crack down on “reckless behavior” on Washington Avenue and stepped up enforcement on bars generally that led to the temporary closure of near northside cocktail bar Rabbit’s Got the Gun.

    Cusack says he’s a “huge supporter” of efforts to reduce crimes like street racing, drug dealing, and sex trafficking along Washington and in its surrounding neighborhoods. Still, he feels targeting by the city for being impolite to a health inspector.

    He plans to fight both the arrest and the citations in court. “I want the charges dropped, and I want it expunged completely from my record. That’s the first thing, and I’m going to try very hard to do it,” he says.

    “That’s going to end up costing thousands of dollars just to deal with the sheer volume,” he adds.

    CultureMap contacted Mayor Whitmire’s office. A representative said the mayor was not aware of the situation and has no comment on an open investigation.

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