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    What's Eric Eating Episode 68

    Get the scoop on Houston's sexy new seafood spot, plus a tasty West African pop-up

    CultureMap Staff
    Sep 27, 2018 | 1:45 pm

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," Sambrooks hospitality owner Michael Sambrooks and director of operations Steve Breaker join CultureMap food editor to discuss their newly formed restaurant group, Sambrooks Hospitality. Known as the owner of Montrose barbecue joint The Pit Room, Sambrooks recently acquired Pi Pizza, Lee's Fried Chicken & Donuts, and Star Fish from Cherry Pie Hospitality.

    Sambrooks and Breaker begin by discussing their entrance into the hospitality industry and how their paths crossed at Reef, where Sambrooks worked as a server and Breaker served as a manager. From there, Sambrooks started The Pit Room, which earned a spot on Texas Monthly's list of the state's 50 best barbecue joints courtesy of its creative blend of Central Texas-style smoked meats with Tex-Mex touches like queso and tortillas made with smoked brisket fat.

    Finally, the two discuss their plans for the new acquisitions. While Sambrooks and Breaker have only minor changes planned for Lee's (starting with a new neon sign) and Pi Pizza (Chicago-style deep dish and more sandwiches), bigger changes are coming to Star Fish.

    "We want to make that a flagship, high-end restaurant for our group that is going to express our personalities, our style of food, the things that we want to see on a high-end seafood menu," Sambrooks says. "It's probably going to be a total redo — nothing wrong with what was there before — but we want to show what we would like to see in that style of concept. We've got a lot of ideas on how that's going to look. Instead of bigger plates, it's probably going to be more simple, elegant plates with a few components . . . We might do a little minor construction of the interior. The team so far has been great helping us out with the transition."

    Prior to Sambrooks and Breaker joining the show, Sandler and co-host Megha Tejpal discuss the news of the week. Their topics include the revelation that celebrity chef Jonathan Waxman will be opening a cafe at Bellaire's new H-E-B, Adair Concepts takeover of the restaurant at Evelyn's Park, Robert Del Grande's new menu at The Hobby Center's new restaurant Diana American Grill, and Delicious Concepts owner Ken Bridge's purchase of a Bentley with bitcoin.

    In the restaurants of the week segment, Tejpal and Sandler describe their experience at ChòpnBlọk, a pop-up series that's serving as a test kitchen for a forthcoming fast casual restaurant that aims to bring West African flavors into the mainstream. They rate the positives and negatives of their meal and discuss whether the concept is likely to achieve its goal of becoming the West African equivalent of Local Foods. In addition, they share some first impressions of the new breakfast offerings at BuffBurger.

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on iTunes or Google Play. Listen to it every Saturday at 11 am on SportsMap 94.1.

    Michael Sambrooks and Steve Breaker are this week's guests.

    Michael Sambrooks Steve Breaker
    Courtesy photo
    Michael Sambrooks and Steve Breaker are this week's guests.
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    TK's dinner at Baso

    Star chef Thomas Keller feasts at Michelin-recognized Houston restaurant

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 19, 2026 | 4:56 pm
    Thomas Keller Baso Max Lappe Jacques Varon
    Courtesy of Baso
    Edwin Castro, Fernando Acosta, Max Lappe, Thomas Keller, Jacques Varon, Aaron Gutierrez, Adam Blodgett, and Sam Ainslie.

    It isn’t every day that the dean of American chefs dines at a Houston restaurant, but that’s what happened Sunday, October 18 when culinary superstar Thomas Keller visited Baso in the Heights.

    Best known for his restaurants The French Laundry in Yountville, California and Per Se in New York City, both of which hold three Michelin stars, Keller has won multiple James Beard Awards, including the highly covered prizes for Outstanding Chef and Outstanding Restaurateur. The French Laundry held the No. 1 spot in the World’s 50 Best in both 2003 and 2004. Netflix documentary series Chef’s Table profiled him in a 2025 episode.

    Baso co-executive chef Max Lappe tells CultureMap that Charles Carroll, executive chef of the River Oaks Country Club, sent an email to let the restaurant know that Keller wanted to visit while he was in town.

    “I slapped my laptop shut and my heart sank into my ankles,” Lappe says “I felt like I was going to collapse. It was a feeling I rarely experience, just the mail, how much excitement it brought me.”

    “I didn’t believe it for the first 10 seconds. How could this be real? He’s the most important American chef of all time,” Baso owner and co-executive chef Jacques Varon adds. “I’ve had people I admire and respect greatly dine with us but never someone like this come into the restaurant.”

    Rather than throw the restaurant’s entire menu at Keller and his friend, the chefs let him order most of his meal, including sweet shrimp, pepper toast, okra, maitake mushroom, endive salad, and the signature pork chop with pork jowl condiment. The chefs sent Keller two roasted oysters — he liked them enough order to two more — and a tomato dish. He had a slice of Basque cheesecake for dessert.

    “We discussed, how do we take care of him, especially for someone who’s traveled so much and eaten at the best restaurants in the world,” Lappe says. “I imagine there’s — maybe burden isn’t the right word — but it can be selfish to take over a meal and feed someone like your grandma tried to feed you.”

    According to Lappe and Varon, Keller was an excellent guest. He posed for pictures with the staff (see above) and praised the experience. The staff signed a Baso hat as a souvenir.

    Keller’s visit is only the latest accolade for Baso, a live fire restaurant that applies Basque culinary techniques to Texas ingredients. In the spring, Varon and Lappe earned their first James Beard Award semifinalist nomination in the Emerging Chef category. More recently, not only did Baso retain its Recommended status in the Michelin Guide, Varon and Lappe earned the Young Chef Award. Still, Keller’s compliments moved both chefs.

    “As best as you can do when Thomas Keller is in your restaurant, I was pretty calm and collected,” Lappe says about the moment when he delivered one of Keller’s dishes to his table. “I could feel my lip quivering. As soon as I walked back to the kitchen, I walked into a closet and had to let it out a little bit.”

    “He told Gus [Valenga, one of Baso’s captains], ‘I didn’t know restaurants like this exist in Houston,’” Varon says. “That sent me to the moon. That’s one of the most complimentary things I’ve ever been told in my life.”

    Thomas Keller Baso Max Lappe Jacques Varon

    Courtesy of Baso

    Edwin Castro, Fernando Acosta, Max Lappe, Thomas Keller, Jacques Varon, Aaron Gutierrez, Adam Blodgett, and Sam Ainslie.

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