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    Restaurant Owner Assaults Critic

    Scorned restaurant owner "verbally assaults" food critic Alison Cook over Top 100 snub in street confrontation

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 26, 2014 | 1:34 pm

    One Houston restaurant owner helped answer the question posed in CultureMap on Thursday about Chronicle restaurant critic Alison Cook's newly released list of Houston's 100 best restaurants. Does the list matter?

    Well, it matters enough to Fusion Taco owner Julia Sharaby that she decided to express her displeasure with it. While most people are content to air their grievances on social media or in the comments section, Sharaby took a more direct approach.

    Just witnessed intoxicated owner of @fusiontaco verbally assault @alisoncook on the street downtown. Unreal hostility. Absolutely surreal.

    — Misha (@tastybits) September 26, 2014

    According to tweets sent by semi-retired local food blogger Misha Govshteyn and his wife Season Paquette, Sharaby hurled insults at Cook in front of Public Services, the new bar from Oxheart chef Justin Yu and sommelier Justin Vann that opened last week.

    Neither Govshteyn nor Paquette provided any details of Sharaby's invective, but the confrontation was apparently heated enough that Public Service's doorman felt compelled to escort the group to their car.

    Perhaps Sharaby took some inspiration from the movie Chef, in which Jon Favreau's character unleashes an epic rant at a critic when the he visits Favreau's restaurant after slamming it in a review. Favreau's character gets fired for his honesty, but, of course, Sharaby is the owner of Fusion Taco.

    CultureMap contacted Sharaby's representative for a response but has yet to receive a reply.

    Cook may not have published a formal review between June 24 and Sept. 16 while she prepared her Top 100 list, but good places can still be overlooked despite anyone's best efforts. Even if Sharaby has a point that her restaurant is potentially worthy of inclusion — Fusion Taco does serve tasty food, and the restaurant has made an admirable transition from being a food truck — haranguing the person who decides your restaurant's fate doesn't seem like the smartest way to generate future consideration.

    Favreau's character finds redemption when he opens a food truck, but Sharaby's already done that. Maybe she can create a "Top 100" taco full of teeny-tiny Oxheart-style vegetables. That seems like a better response to a perceived slight than public shouting matches.

    Or just rant on Twitter. That's what it's for.

    Julia Sharaby — pictured here in her food truck days — wasn't going to take a snub from food critic Alison Cook quietly.

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    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

    italian cuisinewinefredericksburghill countryopeningsnews-you-can-eat
    news/restaurants-bars

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