Restaurant Owner Assaults Critic

Scorned restaurant owner "verbally assaults" food critic Alison Cook over Top 100 snub in street confrontation

One Houston restaurant owner helped answer the question posed in CultureMap on Thursday about Chronicle restaurant critic Alison Cook's newly released list of Houston's 100 best restaurants. Does the list matter?

Well, it matters enough to Fusion Taco owner Julia Sharaby that she decided to express her displeasure with it. While most people are content to air their grievances on social media or in the comments section, Sharaby took a more direct approach.

Just witnessed intoxicated owner of @fusiontaco verbally assault @alisoncook on the street downtown. Unreal hostility. Absolutely surreal.

— Misha (@tastybits) September 26, 2014

According to tweets sent by semi-retired local food blogger Misha Govshteyn and his wife Season Paquette, Sharaby hurled insults at Cook in front of Public Services, the new bar from Oxheart chef Justin Yu and sommelier Justin Vann that opened last week.

Neither Govshteyn nor Paquette provided any details of Sharaby's invective, but the confrontation was apparently heated enough that Public Service's doorman felt compelled to escort the group to their car.

Perhaps Sharaby took some inspiration from the movie Chef, in which Jon Favreau's character unleashes an epic rant at a critic when the he visits Favreau's restaurant after slamming it in a review. Favreau's character gets fired for his honesty, but, of course, Sharaby is the owner of Fusion Taco.

CultureMap contacted Sharaby's representative for a response but has yet to receive a reply.

Cook may not have published a formal review between June 24 and Sept. 16 while she prepared her Top 100 list, but good places can still be overlooked despite anyone's best efforts. Even if Sharaby has a point that her restaurant is potentially worthy of inclusion — Fusion Taco does serve tasty food, and the restaurant has made an admirable transition from being a food truck — haranguing the person who decides your restaurant's fate doesn't seem like the smartest way to generate future consideration.

Favreau's character finds redemption when he opens a food truck, but Sharaby's already done that. Maybe she can create a "Top 100" taco full of teeny-tiny Oxheart-style vegetables. That seems like a better response to a perceived slight than public shouting matches.

Or just rant on Twitter. That's what it's for.

Julia Sharaby — pictured here in her food truck days — wasn't going to take a snub from food critic Alison Cook quietly.

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Bowling over Houston

Gluten-free Austin restaurant picks River Oaks for first Houston store

Rendering of Honest Mary's in River Oaks

Rendering by Mark Odom Studio

Honest Mary's, an Austin-based eatery, is expanding with a new location in Houston's River Oaks in fall 2025.

It will be a Houston homecoming for restauranteur Nelson Monteith with the fall 2025 debut of Honest Mary’s in River Oaks.

“It’s a joy and honor to bring a brand we’ve worked hard to create in Austin and finally be able to share that concept with friends and family in Houston,” Monteith said in a statement. “There’s a bit of built-in comfort in knowing there are folks here who are already fans of Honest Mary’s. They’ve been asking us for years to open a location in Houston, and now it’s happening.”

Located at 2047-A West Gray St., Honest Mary's will occupy the current La Madeleine space. It is not known at this time when La Madeleine will close, but construction on Honest Mary's is expected to begin in May 2025.

Monteith and his wife, Mary, launched Honest Mary’s in 2017 after embracing mindful eating to improve their health. Since then, the Austin-based eatery that describes itself as serving "life-giving fast food" has expanded to four locations, with the upcoming River Oaks spot marking its arrival in Houston.

“There’s healthy food, fresh food, and fast food,” he said. “We wanted to create something that fits into that sweet spot without sacrificing quality or convenience. The trend towards healthy eating and the reality of busy lifestyles aren’t slowing down. We offer a place that caters to both.”

At the center of Honest Mary’s menu are five signature bowls ranging from poke to vegetarian, including the smoky poblano ($10.25) that features a basmati rice base with fresh vegetables of wild arugula, sweet corn, and pickled onions in a creamy poblano sauce. Co-partner and chef Andrew Wiseheart, known for Austin’s Contigo and Ladybird Taco, leads the kitchen.

Honest Mary's menu features healthy, gluten-free bowls. Guests can choose from five signature bowls at Honest Mary's, or create their own.Courtesy of Honest Mary's

Diners can build their own bowls by selecting a base like quinoa, proteins including grilled chicken and tuna, and vegetables such as sweet potatoes. Pickled onions, cucumber salad, and avocado are among the topping selections, with sauces like lemon garlic and cashew-lime crema.

Scratch-made sipping broths round out the menu, with the chicken bone broth packed with celery, carrots, onions and parsley, or an umami-rich seaweed and mushroom broth.

A selection of house-made aguas frescas and teas, local craft beer, wine, kombucha, and organic cold-pressed juices will be available, as will Honest Mary’s popular almond butter cookies sweetened with maple syrup and topped with a sprinkle of Maldon salt.

Rendering by Mark Odom Studio

Honest Mary's, an Austin-based eatery, is expanding with a new location in Houston's River Oaks in fall 2025.

With its fully gluten-free menu, Honest Mary’s caters to a range of dietary preferences, including vegetarian, vegan, and dairy-free. To align with Monteith’s dedication to nutrition, Honest Mary’s uses seed oils sparingly and prioritizes local and organic ingredients when possible.

“River Oaks Shopping Center has a unique blend of history and vibrant new concepts, making it the ideal home for us,” Monteith said. “We aim to be a neighborhood spot where people can enjoy delicious, healthy food.”

Lunden McGill and John Frazier of Baker Katz brokered the deal for the 2,200-square-foot space and additional patio with seating for 38 inside and 44 outside. Mark Odom Studio is responsible for architecture and design.

Honest Mary’s signature elements of terra cotta and blue tilework will be incorporated to provide consistency between all five locations, while Art Deco-inspired decor of lush greenery, warm wood tones and natural light will align the space with the River Oaks Shopping Center’s structure.

Takeaway, delivery, and dine-in will be provided daily from 11 am to 9 pm.

news-you-can-eat openings honest mary's