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    Vegging Out

    After a decade, Central City Co-Op still offers colorful personalities & veggiegoodness

    Joel Luks
    Oct 3, 2010 | 2:44 pm
    • From left: Susy Shaprio, volunteer and local grower; Michele Corbin, co-opbookkeeper and partner of co-op; Liana Winkler, volunteer; Tiffany Tyler, chairon the co-op board of directors; Pat Greer, founder; Monika Cikart, customer;and Carolyn Lambeth, director of operations.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Beautiful colors meant to inspire the most artful cooks.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Wise advise. Eat your veggies.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Jennifer Georgantas, from left, Cassie Georgantas and Pat Greer
    • Red okra? Nothing like a colorful bounty to stimulate the appetite.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • On Wednesdays, Liana Winkler puts out a sign that transforms Grace LutheranChurch into Central City Co-op.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Selection of organic apples - granny smith and gala
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Early shoppers pick up their organic vegetable shares, a weekly bounty of mostlylocal produce.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Offering more than produce, one can find organic grains, legumes, honey, coffeeand more.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • I eat at least three of these a week.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Crisp greens are plentiful.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • A fragrant selection of fruits
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Organic peas
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Volunteers unload a truck filled with organic veggies.
      Photo by Joel Luks

    It is amazing what happens in a decade. As I look back at what seems my not-so-distant past, I discover many rites of passage a twenty-something experiences: Post-graduate school, entering the workforce, discovering new talents and beginning a new career— careers, I suppose.

    Then there is the weight gain, weight loss, changing hairstyles (longer, shorter), going through stuff, seeing a shrink, and, after all that, I am a different person than 10 years ago, almost unrecognizable, but stronger, and hopefully more patient and wiser.

    Celebrating its 10th anniversary year, the Central City Co-Op is also almost unrecognizable — but also much stronger and wiser. What had started on the porch of Pat Greer’s oldest daughter, Jennifer Georgantas, is now a efficient operation of about 50 volunteers feeding 240 families, as well as six partner co-ops ranging from Clear Lake and Sugar Land to northwest Houston and Humble.

    A community of like-minded people, CCC is a place where Houstonians can find organic local food, colorful personalities and veggie goodness. The friendships, rather “sisterhood” of the ladies behind Central City Co-Op, perhaps somewhat akin to the women in Steel Magnolias, begins with small-talk chatter, as they quietly set up for yet another Wednesday, as they have for the last nine years.

    For me, 7 a.m. is early. A somewhat steamy and musky smoggy morning transforms Grace Lutheran Church on Waugh, their new locale, into a seemingly small old-fashioned town where friendships matter, people talk and Facebook is non-existent.

    Coffee is made and by 7:30 a.m., activity picks-up. Produce delivered the night before is organized in both the “open market” area, where anyone can shop, and the member area, where those who pre-ordered a “share” can claim their goods: An allotment of seasonal organic bounty.

    Rene, a driver for Country Fresh, awaits patiently in her truck while volunteers complete tasks necessary prior to unloading her organic delivery. A couple of strong men emerge from from somewhere inside the church. They know their role and do it well. Quietly, swiftly, and methodically.

    “Bye guys!” Rene exclaims. “I love you, see you next week.”

    Her charming accent and seemingly gentle eyes do not distract from her physical strength. This is a woman with whom you do not mess.

    “I feel amazingly medicated,” one of the ladies says. Telling stories of their own and their family’s health, there is comfort in sharing life’s trials and tribulations. A surgery recovery, a traffic accident, and an out-of-state move dominate the conversation, all while they pay meticulous attention to the product.

    “No depressing vegetables are allowed,” another demands. “I only want beautiful colors on my plate.”

    Through this organized hustle and bustle, by 8:30 a.m. an area of the church is transformed into a beautiful and mouthwatering market of organic goodies filled with as much local produce as available.

    “Jennifer and I were tired of paying big prices for organic fruits and vegetables,” Greer recalls. “We looked for a source to supplement the local produce we were getting from Gundermann Farms in Wharton. While talking on the phone one day and playing with a bunch of parsley, I noticed a recipe on the label, flipped it over and called a local distributor. ‘ Co-ops? why sure, we have them all over town.’ We called a few friends and here we are, celebrating our 10th anniversary.”

    I sit and share a cup of coffee with my guide, Liana Winkler, a potential incoming board member, elections pending, who is very passionate about her food and Katy Carpman, who works at a church and organizes Westside Organic, a partner co-op near Highway 6 and Little York.

    “The co-op is very seasonal in a funny way,” Carpman says. “I see increased demand in January, perhaps because of New Year’s resolutions to eat better and more organic. In the summer, we are in a lull as folks leave to spend the summer elsewhere. Then there is the start of school, when parents realize their kids are growing and they should probably feed them more.”

    Winkler has a routine. A Tuesday email lets co-op members know of what’s in store for them the next morning, including recipe ideas. Winkler plans her meals and looks forward to seeing her co-op family, “from the granola to the immaculate professional types.”

    “I don’t have a vegetable garden but I have the co-op,” Winkler says. “I want to feed myself well, and I found a community of people that have the same mindset.”

    As an avid cook, I admire the sexy and oddly shaped prickly Suyo Long cucumbers, the exotic and fragrant lemongrass, seductive figs and of course, the robust and fiery hot peppers that keep my culinary imagination on hyper-drive, encouraged by now my third cup of coffee.

    But it is the artful red okra that catches my attention and I cannot help photographing it repeatedly.

    “We also have had other cool produce you can’t find anywhere else,” Tiffany Tyler, chair of the board, says. ”Purple okra, jujubes, tiny local strawberries sweet as candy, local garlic, local muscadine grapes, local banana figs and dinosaur kale— and what kid wouldn’t want to at least try that?”

    I do, pretending to raise my hand.

    By 9 a.m., shoppers start pouring in, some with that I-just-got-out-of-bed look. The early risers are there to pick-up their pre-ordered shares. Anything left over at the end of the day is packaged and donated to the Houston Food Bank and other food pantries.

    “When people seem to find us, it is with an open mind. They have made the connection that food is grown by people, and some of it has dirt on it,” Carolyn Lambeth, director of the co-op, explains. Lambeth is sassy, witty and welcoming, keeping the co-op running smoothly. “They are ready for food exploration; they desire to enjoy new and different tastes and textures. Of course they are always excited to realize eating healthy and well can also be economical.”

    With a goal to ultimately spread this experience and model throughout Houston, including underserved communities and schools, the “gospel” of the co-op is that the fruit of the land, not the processed and prepackaged food, is what nourishes people.

    “We want to encourage and inspire sustainability in all its forms, supporting community-based agriculture and learning,” Lambeth says. She shares Greer’s herculean dreams of having a co-op in every neighborhood with a larger main location, store front, gathering place, teaching facility and restaurant.

    It’s 9:30 and the energy is contagious. I am nudged and reminded that anyone can join the party — new members and volunteers are always needed and welcomed. As I chuckle, losing track of time and somewhat late for my next appointment, I commit a fatal foodie faux-pas: I leave forgetting to purchase anything. And I had my eye on the red okra.

    Ten Years. Good reason to return. Next Wednesday.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Where to drink now

    CultureMap's 11 favorite new bars that shook up Houston in 2025

    Brianna McClane
    Dec 29, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Hotel Saint Augustine lobby bar
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Eclectic vintage finds populate the walk-up bar at Augustine Lounge in Hotel Saint Augustine.

    This was a standout year for new bars in Houston, with elevated cocktail lounges opening alongside neighborhood hangouts. Whether you’re after a cold beer while watching the Texans on a Heights patio or a tiny martini inside an emerald-green, celestial-inspired hideaway near the Galleria, these 11 openings defined Houston’s bar scene in 2025.

    Augustine Lounge
    Hotel Saint Augustine has been racking up awards since it opened — receiving a Michelin Key and best new hotel honors from both Esquire and Travel + Leisure. Its bar, Augustine Lounge, matches that acclaim with a focused drinks program featuring highlights like the Coyote Call, a mix of mezcal, port, and Blackstrap rum accented with raspberry, lime, and nutmeg. The food menu leans elevated but unfussy, with offerings such as a charcuterie board with duck prosciutto and a wagyu hot dog tucked into a brioche bun. It also hosts vinyl nights featuring DJ sets from high profile Houstonians. Augustine Lounge is located at 4110 Loretto Drive and open daily from 11 am-12 am.

    Bar Doko
    Created by Duckstache Hospitality experts (Kokoro, Handies Douzo, Himari, and Aiko) as a companion to its sushi restaurant Doko, Bar Doko has an intimate, 16-seat atmosphere and an extensive selection of Japanese whisky. Small bites shine here, including a masu crudo topped with smoked trout roe and a Jidori egg salad toast. Beverage options range from highballs, martinis, sake, beer, and wine to inventive cocktails like the “Sora” Sky, made with sesame-infused tequila, Maven cold brew, toasted barley, coffee liqueur, and vanilla miso foam. Bar Doko is located at 3737 Cogdell Street, Suite 135, and is open daily from 4 pm-2 am.

    Bar Madonna
    One doesn’t need a room at the Marlene Inn — a grand neoclassical home turned nine-room hotel — to enjoy this elegant watering hole. Bar Madonna takes its name from a striking, 10-foot painting of the Virgin Mary, relocated from an 18th-century Italian church. Leading the beverage program is Tom Hardy, formerly of Hotel Saint Augustine, whose menu balances Old World influence with New Orleans flair.

    This is a seated-only bar, offering 12 interior seats plus additional patio seating, and while reservations aren’t required, they’re often helpful. Signature libations include the Wild Ouest, a tequila-forward blend with poblano, lime, and mezcal inspired by “cowboy boots down the Champs-Élysées.” Bar Madonna is open Monday-Thursday from 3-10 pm, Friday from 3-11 pm, Saturday from 12-11 pm, and Sunday from 12-10 pm.

    Berwick’s Bird of Paradise
    A tropical escape awaits at Berwick’s Bird of Paradise, created by veteran bartender Robin Berwick of Midtown's beloved Double Trouble. The space was fully renovated to invoke a resort bar attached to an imaginary hotel, complete with playful design touches and a mythical “owner” depicted on the wall. Tropical drinks anchor the menu — think spicy, frozen tequila riffs and a coconut-infused Crocodile Tears Martini — alongside a selection of bar bites like smash burgers, chicken wings, and a Bikini sandwich. Known colloquially as "Be Bop," the bar has quickly attracted locals, industry regulars, and neighbors. Open Tuesday-Thursday from 4 pm-12 am, Friday-Saturday from 3 pm-1 am, and Sunday from 2 pm-10 pm, Berwick’s Bird of Paradise is at 2020 Studewood Street.

    Donna’s
    The newest cocktail destination on this list, Donna’s quickly built a following after opening Thanksgiving weekend in the former Ready Room space. Named after the grandmother of co-founder Jacki Schromm, the bar is a collaboration between the veteran bartender and Anvil owner Bobby Heugel. Together, the duo aims to create a house-party atmosphere, with energetic weekends balanced by more laid-back weeknights. A vintage stereo system — complete with a reel-to-reel and a turntable — sets the soundtrack, loud enough to entertain but low enough for conversations. The Jacki’s Martini, a 50-50 mix of gin with Cocchi Americano and Dolin Blanc vermouth, nods to both the “Bobby’s Martini” at Refuge and Squable’s “Terry’s Martini.” Donna's is open daily from 2 pm-2 am at 2626 White Oak Drive.

    Endless Bummer
    Walk the line between Houston and hell at Endless Bummer, the tiki bar next to Beteleguese Beteleguese’s Montrose location. Skeletons, imps, and tiki idols fill the 50-seat space, turning Endless Bummer into an immersive experience displaying works by local artists. The cocktail menu reimagines tropical standards like daiquiris, mai tais, and punches, while originals include the Banana Hammock — a banana-coffee vodka drink — and the Bitter Bird, made with Jamaican rum, Campari, pineapple, yuzu, and strawberry. Located at 4500 Montrose Boulevard, Endless Bummer is open Wednesday-Sunday, from 5 pm-12 am.

    Good God, Nadine’s
    Designed to feel like the home of “everyone’s favorite eccentric aunt,” Good God, Nadine’s delivers a warm, casual atmosphere paired with playful, comfort-forward drinks. The Washington Corridor bar offers 17 beers and wines on tap, along with cocktails like the Mango Sticky Rice, made with vodka, coconut milk, mango, and pandan. Food options range from po' boys to cast-iron cornbread and oysters on the half shell. Patrons can choose between three distinct areas: an indoor bar, an air-conditioned patio, and a garden patio. Good God, Nadine’s sits at 33 Waugh Drive, and is open Tuesday-Saturday from 4 pm-12 am, and Sunday from 12 pm-8 pm.

    The Kid
    With a comfortable bartop, moody-but-visible lighting, and ample seating — The Kid nails the feel of a classic neighborhood hang. Inside, charming baby goat figurines — aka “kids” — peek out from behind chicken wire room dividers, while an astroturfed patio outside offers a prime spot to catch a game. From the team behind Flying Fish, Flying Saucer, and Rodeo Goat, the bar continues the group’s tradition of approachable comfort food, including burgers and loaded tater tots. Drink options include the La Fresita, a refreshing creation of tequila, strawberry, peach, lemon, and prosecco. Happy hour is weekdays from 4 pm-7 pm, with $8 cocktails and wines, plus an all-day happy hour on Tuesdays. Located at 1815 N. Durham Drive, The Kid is open Monday-Thursday, 4 pm-12 am, and Friday and Saturday, 4 pm-2 am.

    Hotel Saint Augustine lobby bar
    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Eclectic vintage finds populate the walk-up bar at Augustine Lounge in Hotel Saint Augustine.

    Moon
    Perched above Tavola, Moon is an elegant cocktail lounge inspired by the cosmos. A joint concept from the Bastion Collection — the hospitality group behind Michelin-starred Le Jardinier at the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston — and Cafe Natalie, Moon’s food options range from a black truffle croque monsieur to the Dark Side of the Moon, a chocolate moelleux with hazelnut crunch. House cocktails like the Nightfall, featuring spiced WhistlePig rye, dark rum, Oloroso sherry, and cherry, sit alongside classics such as French 75s, wines, mocktails, tiny martinis, and shots. For those craving something off-menu, head bartender Joao Diniz is known for crafting bespoke drinks on request. Moon is located at 1800 Post Oak Boulevard, Suite 6110, and is open Tuesday-Thursday from 5 pm-12 am, and Friday and Saturday from 5 pm-2 am.

    Starduster Lounge
    There’s something both nostalgic and timeless about Starduster Lounge, a Heights neighborhood bar that puts a subtle cosmic spin on West Texas style. Will Thomas, co-founder of White Oak Music Hall and owner of Dan Electro’s, teamed up with Benjy Mason of Johnny’s Gold Brick and Winnie’s to transform the nearly 100-year-old building into a charming destination with a rustic yet refined interior of leather, vintage tile, and wood, and a spacious, tree-shaded backyard. The menu is constantly evolving, but standout drinks include the Pecan or Pecan?, with rye, bourbon, and Licor 43. Steak night is on Thursdays, with other food offerings announced via the bar’s Instagram. Happy hour is Monday-Friday, 4 pm-6 pm, with half-off cocktails. Starduster Lounge is located at 3921 N. Main and is open Monday-Friday from 4 pm-2 am, and Saturday and Sunday from 2 pm-2 am.

    CultureMap editor Eric Sandler's Honorable Mention: Montrose Grocer
    Building on her experience as the owner of Avondale Food & Wine and Heights Grocer, Houston entrepreneur Mary Clarkson opened this wine shop next to Catbirds. What distinguishes it from Heights Grocer is that MG also has a carefully-chosen selection of wines by-the-glass and bottle available for drinking on-site. Paired with snacks in the form of sandwiches and charcuterie boards and enhanced by a soundtrack of 4,000 records, Montrose Grocer has become a popular spot with hospitality workers and wine lovers who appreciate its low key atmosphere and affordable prices. (Full disclosure: Clarkson and Sandler are friends. She is a regular contributor to CultureMap's "What's Eric Eating" podcast.)

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