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    Unexpected Chef Change

    Hot Houston restaurant suddenly fires "triple threat" chef as it plans expansion

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 19, 2014 | 11:48 am

    "Puzzle piece didn't fit..."

    That's how restaurateur Shepard Ross describes Plinio Sandalio: the well-regarded pastry chef who was fired (not "parted ways," as the Chronicle first reported) this week from his role as co-chef at Pax Americana. The recently opened Montrose restaurant has emerged as one of 2014's hottest openings and much of that heat came from Sandalio's union with rising star chef Adam Dorris.

    When Pax first announced it was opening, Ross called Sandalio a "triple threat" thanks to his abilities with savory, pastry and cocktails. For his part, Sandalio told CultureMap he was looking forward to preparing savory dishes. "When I come home, I cook a lot of savory stuff, a lot of comfort food, a lot of braising. I wanted to switch back to savory and do that again and do that in a restaurant environment, not just at home," Sandalio said at the time.

    Even before Sandalio broke his arm this week in a car accident, they decided to move on without him.

    He did not respond to a request for comment about his current situation.

    Ross tells CultureMap that once the restaurant opened, Sandalio devoted his attention almost exclusively to pastry, which received raves from diners. With patio weather looming, Pax expects to expand its seating. Both Ross and Dorris realized the chef would need more help on the line to deal with the additional diners. Even before Sandalio broke his arm this week in a car accident and underwent surgery to repair it, they decided to move on without him.

    As long as Dorris is in the kitchen, Pax will continue to be one of the city's most interesting new restaurants. A search has already begun to find a "bad-ass sous chef," per Ross, who can assist Dorris on the line.

    Sandalio's future is less clear. He remains supremely talented. Whether he finds a kitchen in Houston that fits his talents remains to be seen.

    Pax Americana has dismissed chef Plinio Sandalio.

    Austin Photo Set: News_Adam_meet the tastemakers_pastry chefs_april 2012_plinio sandalio_the carillon
    Photo by Jessica Pages
    Pax Americana has dismissed chef Plinio Sandalio.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    when I dip, you dip

    Heights restaurant's new lunch service will only offer 1 sandwich

    Eric Sandler
    May 22, 2026 | 3:30 pm
    La Lucha french dip sandwich
    Courtesy of La Lucha
    La Lucha will begin serving French dips on Friday, June 12.

    If a sandwich hall of fame existed, one of its plaques would surely be devoted to the French dip. Its combination of thinly-sliced beef, tangy horseradish sauce, and a savory au jus is a winning formula.

    Beginning Friday, June 12, Heights restaurant La Lucha will be showcasing two takes on the venerable sandwich when it starts serving them for its new Friday-only lunch service, which will be held from 11 am-2 pm. To be clear, the two sandwiches (plus fries) will be the only menu items available at lunch — apologies to anyone hoping to ease into the weekend with La Lucha staples like fried chicken or the pharmacy burger.

    The two sandwich choices are: a West Coast style French dip that’s just shaved meat and au jus or an East Coast style that adds provolone and caramelized onions. Both are served with horseradish aioli on bread from Houston’s Royal Bakery that “gets crispy and delicious,” according to executive chef Bobby Matos.

    The meat is the same prime rib that newly opened steak joint Star Rover, La Lucha’s sister restaurant, serves as part of its viral, “I ate the 76’er” eating challenge. Priced at $26, the sandwich offers a healthy seven ounces of thinly-sliced beef.

    “They’ve done this at Little Sparrow in Atlanta but for late night. It’s been a huge success and people are digging it,” Matos explains about the motivation to introduce the offering.

    Limiting the menu to two variations of the same sandwich, fries, and beverages — both alcoholic and non-alcoholic — allows La Lucha to offer its Friday lunch service more easily than if Matos had to staff the kitchen to parepare its full menu.

    “It’s just bringing more people to the Heights and giving them a chance to get to know our restaurants,” Matos adds. “There are still people who don’t know about La Lucha, and it’s been eight years.”

    Although Matos moved to Texas from California, he says he prefers the East Coast French dip. “I want cheese and onions on mine. I like cheese on French dips,” he says.

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