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    Foodie News

    Midtown's newest restaurant features burgers and park views, but don't call it Shake Shack

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 18, 2015 | 7:06 am

    For a neighborhood that's known for being Houston's nightlife hotspot, Midtown has surprisingly few places to eat after 11 p.m. Even on the weekends, the traditional option of Mai's has only been recently supplemented by Jinya Ramen, but, other than Cafe Layal and Christian's Tailgate, nothing exists right in the thick of the bustling scene on Bagby.

    At least until Tuesday, when Rico's Morning + Noon + Night makes its debut at Bagby Park on the corner of Bagby and Gray. Rico's is a quick serve kiosk that offers breakfast, lunch, dinner and, on the weekends, late night eats. Named after Cyclone Anaya's owner Rico Valencia, the restaurant serves a menu of classic American fare like hamburgers and hot dogs developed by Cyclone's corporate chef Jason Gould.

    "The main concept was to come up with something that would fit in well with this urban living environment and make it appealing to everybody," Gould says. "So we thought, 'what better than classic burgers and hot dogs?'"

    Gould explains that the Midtown District wanted an attraction that would help make the park a destination to supplement the movie screenings and concerts that are already held at the space. Valencia pitched the Rico's concept that's able to maximize the 400 square foot kitchen by utilizing the Midtown location of Cyclone Anaya's for part of the prep. Free wifi and outlets mean that area residents have a new space to "work from home," particularly on sunny days.

    If the idea of classic American fare and a park setting reminds some people of a certain New York-based, rapidly expanding fast food empire — i.e., Shake Shack — well, that's just a coincidence. "We don't want to think that we stole the idea," Gould says. "The big thing was, what will work in this space? We wanted to have food that we could produce, drinks that we could offer, beer and wine, which we think is great for a park environment. We figured burgers, beer and hot dogs was the best thing."

    At breakfast, the menu features breakfast tacos as well as lighter items like orange juice, granola and smoothies. At lunch and dinner, Rico's offers hot dogs, burgers, fries and shakes, as well as beer and wine, all of which can be eaten in the restaurant's outdoor seating area or on the park's grass.

    "Late night we're doing what we're labeling as 'drunk food'," Gould says. "It will kind of be a mish-mash of different things, more heavy on some things. Chili cheese fries will be on the regular menu, but maybe at night we'll put bacon in it and cook them in lard just to make them more interesting."

    Rico's makes an effort to keep things as local as possible. Both the burger meat and the all-beef hot dogs come from 44 Farms, buns and rolls come from Slow Dough Bread Co. and the tomatoes are from Atkinson Farms. Beverage options include local craft beer and locally roasted Katz Coffee, as well as all-natural Maine Root sodas.

    Of course, serving a six-ounce patty on a potato bun that's easy to hold with one hand won't slow down the Shake Shack comparisons, but only Rico's will serve it in Tex-Mex form topped with guacamole, jalapenos, salsa and queso. The H-Town dog features a bacon-wrapped hot dog that's topped with ketchup and onion jam for a nice balance of sweet and salty flavors.

    "We're doing it with ketchup because the mustard overpowered the flavor. It was too strong," Gould explains. "The tangy-ness of the tomato lends itself to the sweetness of the onion jam."

    Now, when Midtown revelers leave the Dogwood or Pub Fiction, their choices within walking distance won't be limited to food trucks. Rico's will be ready to satisfy almost any craving.

    The Rico's Tex-Mex burger is topped with guacamole, salsa, queso and jalapenos.

    Rico's Tex Mex Burger
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    The Rico's Tex-Mex burger is topped with guacamole, salsa, queso and jalapenos.
    lunchopeningsburgerscraft-beertex-mexbreakfast
    news/restaurants-bars

    Chris Cusack explains

    Houston bar owner speaks out about surprise arrest for health code violations

    Eric Sandler
    May 11, 2026 | 3:50 pm
    Chris Cusack
    Photo by Sergio Trevino
    Chris Cusack owns two locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse.

    Certainly one of the most unusual interactions between a restaurant and City of Houston officials took place on Wednesday, May 6 when Betelgeuse Betelgeuse owner Chris Cusack was arrested for health code violations at his location on Washington Avenue.

    News of the arrest spread quickly across social media over the weekend. Now, Cusack is ready to tell his side of the story.

    Cusack, whose time operating restaurants in Houston goes back more than 15 years to Down House and its affiliated restaurants such as Hunky Dory and D&T Drive Inn, tells CultureMap the problem began on Monday, May 4 when a health department inspector came to Betelgeuse Betelgeuse and asked to see the restaurant’s grease trap.

    The only problem is that location has never had a grease trap. Prior to becoming Betelgeuse Betelgeuse, it was Liberty Station, a pioneering bar in Houston’s craft beer and craft cocktail scenes. In the early days, Betelgeuse served food from a food truck. More recently, it prepares its food next door at The Bell and Crane. Cusack acknowledges he didn’t share this information with the inspector.

    “Usually I’m a charmer with the health department, but I was a little defensive. She kept asking me. I said, ‘ma’am, we don’t make food here,’” he explains. “The tone wasn’t my finest moment, but there was no name calling or anything like that. She said, ‘where does the food come from?’ I said, ‘it doesn’t matter where it comes from. It’s produced in a commercial kitchen.’”

    Cusack says he knew there would be a follow up, but he was shocked when the inspector returned two days later with more colleagues from the health department, TABC inspectors, and Houston Police Department officers.

    “I got somewhere between 21 and 25 citations,” Cusack says about the return visit. He got dinged for everything from graffiti in the bathroom to a missing Harris County tax stamp on the photo booth he leases from a vendor (it has both State of Texas and City of Houston stamps, Cusack says).

    One inspector told Cusack he needed a food dealer’s permit. He showed the inspector that a food dealer’s permit had been issued for the restaurant's address under the former food truck’s LLC but not to the LLC that operates Betelgeuse Betelgeuse. Cusack says he had renewed the food truck’s permit in March, but that wasn’t good enough for the inspector. In Cusack’s telling, he was arrested for not having the permit, since it was also flagged as missing in an inspection from October 2025. He's the only person he knows who has ever been arrested for a misdemeanor violation of the health code.

    Cusack says he spent 21 hours in the Harris County Jail. When he got out, he says he was contacted by a more senior official within the Health Department. Once Cusack confirmed he owned both LLCs, he was told he could reopen. Both locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse have been operating normally since Friday, May 8.

    Cusack maintains he never knew about the October 2025 inspection, which is why he renewed the food dealer’s permit for the food truck’s LLC rather than applying for one under Betelgeuse Betelgeuse’s LLC. “There’s no paper trail that shows I was given this information,” he says. “I did not get the email [from the Health Department].”

    As for why things got so out of hand, Cusack theorizes he was a victim of Houston Mayor John Whitemire’s crack down on “reckless behavior” on Washington Avenue and stepped up enforcement on bars generally that led to the temporary closure of near northside cocktail bar Rabbit’s Got the Gun.

    Cusack says he’s a “huge supporter” of efforts to reduce crimes like street racing, drug dealing, and sex trafficking along Washington and in its surrounding neighborhoods. Still, he feels targeting by the city for being impolite to a health inspector.

    He plans to fight both the arrest and the citations in court. “I want the charges dropped, and I want it expunged completely from my record. That’s the first thing, and I’m going to try very hard to do it,” he says.

    “That’s going to end up costing thousands of dollars just to deal with the sheer volume,” he adds.

    CultureMap contacted Mayor Whitmire’s office. A representative said the mayor was not aware of the situation and has no comment on an open investigation.

    crimeinterview
    news/restaurants-bars
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