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    a new pub for montrose

    Bustling Texas comfort food restaurant and bar serves up new Montrose location

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 12, 2019 | 9:25 am
    FM Kitchen & Bar Montrose rendering
    A rendering of the new FM Kitchen.
    Courtesy of FM Kitchen & Bar

    Texas comfort food is coming to Montrose. FM Kitchen & Bar will replace the shuttered East Hampton Sandwich Co location at 907 Westheimer Rd., the restaurant announced; it should open later this year.

    As at the original location, chef Ryan Hildebrand’s menu will feature burgers, sandwiches, and comfort food dishes like fried shrimp and chicken fried steak. The chef tells CultureMap that he’ll tweak the menu for Montrose a bit by adding more sandwiches, which seems like a logical move, given the location’s proximity to two high-profile burger joints.

    While the food will be mostly familiar, the experience and design will be different. The original FM Kitchen features a massive, 3,000-square-foot patio that has made it one of the Washington corridor’s most popular outdoor dining destinations; however, the new location only has about 100 square feet of outdoor seating. Although that means the two restaurants will offer slightly different experiences, Hildebrand explains that he and business partner Chong Yi decided to evolve the concept slightly rather than seek out a similar location in a suburb like Katy or The Woodlands.

    “I think while conceptually it’s adjusted for the environment and the neighborhood, at its core is a basic, simple attempt at doing quality, simple fare,” Hildebrand says. “It’s a little more bar-centric. I think even the design is kind of a shotgun space, so the bar is basically half the space. I think it’s appropriate for the neighborhood.”

    In addition to the long bar, the new FM will have more of a pub feel courtesy of booth seating. The cocktail offerings will be elevated to match the neighborhood. Like its new neighbor Velvet Taco, the restaurant will stay open later on the weekends.

    Veterans of the Houston food scene may recall that Hildebrand originally planned to open the first FM concept, known at different times as both Brande and FM 903, at the location that it will now occupy. On that level, coming to Montrose is the homecoming the restaurant never had.

    Opening a second location prompts the obvious question of whether additional outposts are in the works. Hildebrand affirms that’s definitely in his plans.

    “With the work we’ve put in on the Montrose location, the scalability and flexibility is giving the powers that be the confidence to look forward and do more, assuming we do a good job,” he says. “If we do a good job, I could see many more.”

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    oh bevin

    Houston bartender's new book celebrates cocktails and sexuality

    Craig D. Lindsey
    Apr 14, 2026 | 1:15 pm
    Bevin Biggers Aphro cocktail
    Photo by Troy Ezequiel Montes
    Bevin Biggers writes about sex and cocktails in her new book, Aphro.

    “There's a lot of stigma about sexuality, especially with black women.”

    Louisiana-born, Houston-based mixologist/multidisciplinary artist Bevin Biggers says as she’s flipping through the pages of her literary debut Aphro: A Cocktail Book on the Sexual Response Cycle. A veteran of Houston’s bar and restaurant scene, who has worked nightspots from Montrose to the Heights and collaborated with big-name alcohol brands (and who also isn’t afraid to call out shady establishments), Biggers has created a project that’s part cocktail manual and part Black, female sexuality manifesto.

    “We already have a lot of other s**t going on and then, on top of that, it's sex, too,” says Biggers, while sipping on a drink at a Midtown watering hole. She points out that, when it comes to media representation, Black women have been stuck with many stereotypical caricatures/portrayals throughout the decades: maids, baby mommas, lesbians, jezebels, sistas who are just plain ol’ angry. But as for Black women who freely explore their sexuality with no shame or repercussions, the culture usually comes up empty.

    “[White women] can be explorative and do all these different things. Black women do it and it’s ‘she’s a whore’ or whatever, right? So, all these caricatures kind of negatively impact how we live, and I talk about all of that here,” she says.

    Aphro originally began a decade ago as a bar concept. After years of becoming a pro in the mixology game, even honing her craft-cocktail skills while living in New York (where she became a fan of the city’s Museum of Sex), she wanted to make it a full-fledged business. Unfortunately, this hasn’t been a good time to open a bar (“Bars are expensive,” she confirms).

    Eventually, it morphed into a book project where Biggers drops sex talk, cocktail recipes, and surprising bits of African American history. “There's a lot of Black bartenders back in the day who freed their wives, their children, and themselves from slavery, using bartenderships,” she says.

    The sex lives of African Americans during and after slavery is a subject Biggers has done extensive research on. Last November, she gave her Substack readers an Aphro taste when she posted a lengthy study on chattel slavery and its impact on the orgasm gap. “It's still a real cocktail book – there are still many pages of recipes,” she assures. “But, here, I talk about stereotypes, caricatures of black women, the orgasm gap, chattel slavery, and how things almost connect to current times.” She also included a questionnaire she sent women regarding orgasms. “I asked very specific questions, and I got a lot of f—ed-up answers, which was the whole point ”

    Funded by a grant from Houston Arts Alliance, Biggers worked with Toronto-based Sure Print & Design to put Aphro into book form. She collaborated with local photographer Rosebeth Akharamen in serving up glorious color shots of the suggestively-named cocktails, made from “aphrodisiac ingredients,” Biggers had conceived.

    Drinks range from “Late Night Cinemax,” (consisting of mezcal, corn puree, chipotle honey, coconut, and a popcorn garnish) to “Locally Deflower” (which includes Texas sized herbs and “delicate floral notes to evoke a softer intimacy”). These 20 recipes are the result of Biggers spending over a decade getting to know more about classic cocktails and modern bartending techniques.

    “I come from Hiram Clarke, where it’s just Hennessy, Alize, Crown Royal,” she says. “And, then, when I came to start bartending, I was learning about Fernet and Montenegro and IPAs and good considerations of beers, and I was like, what the hell is all this? But I want to learn. I want to know what y'all know,” she says.

    We also get seductive shots of Biggers herself, all glammed up in several swanky locations, including her own living room. “I didn’t see any of these photos when she took them because we were in a rush, because of the makeup artists, and I had to do my makeup all over again,” she says. “So, this was all trust, and she knocked it out the park.”

    For Biggers, it’s all worth it if her fellow cocoa-colored beauties buy her book and start feeling more grown, Black, and sexy about themselves. “The inspiration is always being curious about this topic, but it was such a big deal in my community, of not wanting to be accused of being fast,” she says. “Even something that's mutual, it's always, what did you do to him? If it's kissing, it’s you kissed him, and it's not like, y'all kissed each other, you know. There was always punishment for something that's kind of natural. Then, when you're curious about something like that, you start to learn about it in dangerous ways… You learn through strangers, because your parents are not telling you anything about this stuff. You learn through movies. You learn through putting viruses on the f—ing computer, because you typed in the wrong thing, and now, the home computer, the family computer is f—ed up.”

    Biggers ordered a limited run of Aphro volumes that she sells on her website, which also has related merch like color prints and an adult coloring book. She still has dreams of turning her book into a watering hole one day. Until then, she’ll continue her mission of instructing women (and men) on how to stir up your sex life – as well as a stiff drink.

    ----

    Biggers will host an Aphro book release party/talk at Los Perros Cafe on Friday, April 17, at 7 pm. RSVP here.


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