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    chefs on the move

    2 hot Houston chefs suddenly depart from acclaimed restaurants

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 10, 2021 | 1:50 pm
    Brennan’s of Houston
    Brennan's is on the lookout for a new executive chef.
    Photo courtesy of Brennan’s of Houston

    One of this year’s most promising new restaurants and a Houston dining institution have both recently seen their executive chefs depart after relatively short stints. Both Degust and Brennan’s of Houston have plans to move forward without chefs Brandon Silva and Matt Staph, respectively.

    Silva’s departure from Degust comes as the bigger surprise. The chef, a veteran of Uchi, Holley’s, and multiple stages in Europe, joined the Kirby Group in 2016 to oversee culinary operations at bars such as Heights Bier Garten and Holman Draft Hall. Earlier this year, he partnered with the group to open Degust, the intimate, tasting menu concept in Spring Branch.

    “It has been my goal to reach this place since I started cooking,” Silva said at a media preview event in January. “It has been in the works for the past four-and-a-half years.”

    Silva tells CultureMap that things simply didn’t work out as expected.

    “Like certain things, we didn’t see eye to eye, we had creative differences,” he says. “That’s where I’m at now. That’s why I left.”

    Kirby Group operating partner Steven Salazar says Degust will move forward with sous chefs Javier Beccera and Rico Mackins serving as co-chefs. Salazar expects them to introduce a new menu in October, and the restaurant will tweak its design slightly to reflect their interests. Sommelier Dale Ellington remains in charge of beverages.

    “With chefs Javier and Rico, that place will be in good hands. I put together a really solid team. They’ve very creative guys,” Silva says.

    As for Brennan’s, Matt Staph’s departure is the restaurant’s third executive chef to leave since 2020, following the departure of Joe Cervantez to open Pier 6 Seafood and Joey Chavez who became a private chef. Staph joined the restaurant in April after working as chef de cuisine at Chris Shepherd’s One Fifth.

    “After working together for awhile, Matt let us know he was going to look for something else. We wish him well,” Brennan’s proprietor Alex Brennan-Martin says. “It was a little bit of a surprise to us, but we wish him well.”

    Staph, for his part, was succinct about the situation. “At the end of the day it just wasn’t the right fit for me,” he writes in a message. “Good luck to them, but I have bigger and brighter things in my future.”

    For now, general manager Carl Walker and Creole chef Jose Arevalo are leading the kitchen. Brennan-Martin says he’s interested in interviewing candidates but not willing to rush the process at a time when so many restaurants are still struggling to find staff.

    “We’re not on any big time frame either. We’ll just see this thing through,” he says. “As I have come to say to a lot of people who ask me about the business, I’ve got a two word answer for you, ‘we’ll see.’ I’m out of the prediction business.”

    chefs
    news/restaurants-bars

    A CultureMap Exclusive

    Ronnie Killen sets closing date for his Michelin-rated comfort food eatery

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 22, 2026 | 9:48 am
    Kelly Louis, Ronnie Killen, Mollye Hildebrand, Ryan Hildenbrand
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Kelly Louis, Ronnie Killen, Mollye Hildebrand, and Ryan Hildenbrand at the 2025 Texas Michelin Guide ceremony.

    Since the Michelin Guide’s arrival in Texas, it has been rare for any included restaurant to close, but Killen’s, chef Ronnie Killen’s Southern restaurant that holds a Bib Gourmand designation, will serve its final meals on Sunday, July 19.

    Open since 2020 in the space previously occupied by Hickory Hollow, Killen’s serves a Southern-inspired menu based on chef Killen’s family recipes. That includes chicken fried steak and fried chicken, as well as Killen’s signature items such as barbecue and smoked pork belly bites. Last year, chef Killen recruited chef Ryan Hildebrand (formerly of Triniti) to elevate the menu and upgraded the restaurant with new furniture, dinnerware, and silverware.

    All of which is to say that chef Killen’s decision to sell the property for $3.5 million to a new owner — who plans to convert it into a gas station — comes as a bit of a surprise. As he tells CultureMap in an exclusive interview, a number of reasons played into the decision.

    Why Killen’s is closing

    First, the chef has been consolidating his operations over the past few years. Closing Killen’s follows the 2023 closure of Mexican-inspired Pearland restaurant Killen’s TMX; the 2024 shuttering of Killen’s STQ, his live fire steakhouse in Briargrove; and the 2025 closures of both of his restaurants in The Woodlands, Killen’s Steakhouse and Killen’s Barbecue.

    As Killen has discussed before, a number of injuries and surgeries have limited his mobility and caused him considerable pain. A couple months ago, he had another back procedure that’s left him unable to bend over to tie his shoes but has improved his overall health.

    “The chronic pain was so much worse than it was [before the surgery]. I’m not taking drugs everyday not to be in pain,” Killen says.

    In addition, the chef’s confidence in the restaurant’s location has also waned due to increased crime in the area. In one particularly bizarre incident, he spent $8,000 to remove graffiti by a mentally unstable woman who accused the restaurant of causing harm to her stuffed monkey.

    “When I first bought the place, I could walk to H-E-B and get stuff. I was never asked for money. or worried about getting held up,” he says. “Now, i get asked for money three different times on every corner. I think the area has gotten worse.”

    Finally, despite the Michelin recognition and new energy chef Hildebrand brought to the restaurant, it simply hasn’t performed as well financially as it needed to in order to stay open. The money he’ll make from selling the land is far more than the restaurant will earn, even over the next couple of years.

    “If the place were doing $10 million a year, I would have looked at the restaurant value instead of the land value,” Killen says.

    Ryan Hildebrand’s perspective

    Chef Hildebrand understands Killen’s business decision to cash out and move on. He went through a similar process at Triniti, his critically-acclaimed fine dining restaurant that closed in 2017. He’s committed to staying with the restaurant until it closes — at which point, he’ll be looking for a new job.

    “I’ve been an owner,” Hildebrand says. “I’ve owned the real estate. When someone makes you an offer and the restaurant isn’t doing what you wanted, you have a decision.”

    Ultimately, Hildebrand thinks the changes he made — including adding more seafood and other items to move the restaurant slightly upmarket — confused regular customers who just wanted the restaurant’s original dishes and heaping portions.

    “The challenge was to not shock the system too harshly. To hang onto the clientele that was existing and that was loyal. They were entrenched in barbecue,” Hildebrand says. “We had to maintain the identity and at the same time change things. We probably needed to rebrand the whole show. Shut it down. Change the name. Change the menu.”

    Still, he's proud of the work he did in the eight months he spent at the restaurant, and he's eager to take on his next challenge.

    "I definitely want to stay in Houston," he says. "We’re home. We’re much happier. The search starts now. You can announce it. I am wildly available."

    Closing Killen’s will leave Ronnie Killen with just five restaurants — three locations of Killen’s Barbecue in Pearland, Cypress, and Hobby Airport; Killen’s Burgers in Pearland; and Killen’s Steakhouse, which is currently closed for renovations that Ronnie Killen hopes will help it earn a Michelin star (more on that in the weeks to come).

    “It’s just business and timing,” Killen says. “Trust me, it’s very hard. That place means so much to me. It was built with recipes that my grandmother and my godmother made. It was the food I ate as a kid that made me want to become a chef.”

    chefsclosingsnews-you-can-eatinterview
    news/restaurants-bars

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