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    Eat well and do good

    Houston-area Italian restaurants join global earthquake relief fundraiser

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 8, 2016 | 1:39 pm
    Tony Vallone all’Amatriciana
    Tony Vallone uses housemade angel hair pasta in his all’Amatriciana.
    Courtesy photo

    Last month, a massive 6.2 magnitude earthquake devastated a number of towns located in the mountains approximately 85 miles east of Rome including Amatrice. Restaurants all over the world have responded by donating proceeds from their version of the town's signature dish, pasta all’Amatriciana, to earthquake relief efforts.

    The dishes basic structure — typically a combination of tomatoes, Pecorino Romano cheese, and guanciale (smoked pig's jowl) — allows for creative interpretations. While bucatini pasta is the most traditional, subbing in other shapes allows for different textural components. Also, bucatini's long tubes can make for messy eating.

    "Amatrice is one of my favorite places to visit," restaurateur Tony Vallone said in a statement. "It’s famous for its black truffles and its salumi. It’s also one of the most beautiful places in Italy. It breaks my heart to know that it was destroyed in the earthquake.”

    All three of his restaurants, casual Ciao Bello, steakhouse Vallone's, and fine dining restaurant Tony's, will donate $2 to Red Cross Italy from each plate sold in September. Vallone's version of the dish uses housemade angel hair pasta along with guanciale and Pecorino.

    Two inner loop restaurants are serving the classic version with bucatini. At Paulie's, the dish ($10 small/$17 full) comes with smoked bacon and enough red chili flakes to cause diners to sweat from its spicy kick. Although doing so offends purists, diners can cut the heat slightly by adding some of the restaurant's buttery shrimp to their order ($4 or $6). The casual, neighborhood restaurant will donate $1 from every plate sold to Red Cross Italy "until further notice," owner Paul Petronella wrote on Instagram.

    At Giacomo's cibo e vino in River Oaks, chef-owner Lynette Hawkins has added buccatini all'Amatriciana ($17 or $20 with shrimp) as a month-long special and will donate $5 from every plate sold to earthquake relief efforts. Her version uses all-natural guanciale from Niman Ranch for a salty punch.

    Also in Montrose, Divino chef-owner Patrick McCray is serving a milder, more classic all'Amatricana made with rigatoni ($20, $5 donation), but the restaurant will vary its pasta shape over the month of September. Ask sommelier Thomas Moesse to suggest a pairing from one of the city's strongest all-Italian wine lists.

    Those who prefer pizza instead of pasta can still contribute to relief efforts. Arcodoro chef-owner Efisio Farris has created a Pizza Incanto (salami, porcini mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, split peas, pecorino) and will donate $5 from every $19 pizza sold during September to Red Cross Italy.

    Know any other Italian restaurants donating to earthquake relief? Post them in the comments.

    fundraisersnews-you-can-eat
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    What's Eric Eating Episode 584

    Beard Award-winning Latin chef dishes on big Houston move and menu overhaul

    CultureMap Staff
    Sep 11, 2026 | 4:32 pm
    Exilio Latin Flair Douglas Rodriguez
    Courtesy of Exilio Latin Flair
    James Beard Award winner Douglas Rodriguez is the executive chef of Exilio Latin Flair.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Douglas Rodriguez and Bari Hospitality Group co-owner Pedro Teyuca join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Exilio Latin Flair, the company’s pan-Latin restaurant in Montrose.



    Opened in April in the former Verde Garden space, Exilio recently recruited Rodriguez to serve as executive chef and revamp its menu. Known as the “Godfather of Nuevo Latino Cuisine,” the chef brings an impressive resume to his role, including winning Rising Star Chef in the 1996 James Beard Awards, competing on season one of Top Chef Masters, and earning a Recommended designation in the Michelin Guide for Nikos, a Greek restaurant in Durham, NC. As he explains in the episode, he and Bari co-owner Tommy Nally first developed the idea for Exilio when they worked together in Vegas, so he jumped at the opportunity to bring the restaurant to life.

    Rodriguez just rolled out a new menu for Exilio that includes a total revamp of the restaurant’s ceviches and entrees. Specific dishes include tuna watermelon ceviche, mixto seafood ceviche with leche de tigre, Colombian-style chicken empanadas, snapper Veracruz, and a smoked ribeye.

    “The sauce is made with panca peppers (Peruvian red pepper), watermelon juice, yuzu juice. Then it’s slices of tuna and slices of watermelon. I kind of single them,” Rodriguez says about the tuna watermelon ceviche. “The sauce has red onion, Thai basil, tarragon, a herb you don’t usually find in a ceviche. It’s very light, refreshing, herbaceous — hits a lot of different areas in the palate for a simple, two ingredient dish.”

    The chef adds that he’s been getting to know Houston through its restaurants. He cites Mala Sichuan and Hugo’s as two places that have impressed him. He also hails Love Croissants, whose owner, chef Omar Pereney, worked for Rodriguez prior to moving to Houston.

    “I have a long list of places to explore, and I’m excited that this is a big food city,” Rodriguez adds. “I haven’t been to Maximo yet. That’s at the top of my list. I’m excited to be here and get people into the restaurant to try the food.”

    For his part, Teyuca provides an update on Bari’s plans to open a second location in The Woodlands later in September. He also shares exciting news about the company’s plans to add a sushi bar to the lounge above Georgia James, the Montrose steakhouse it purchased from Underbelly Hospitality in 2024.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 8 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Exilio Latin Flair Douglas Rodriguez

    Courtesy of Exilio Latin Flair

    James Beard Award winner Douglas Rodriguez is the executive chef of Exilio Latin Flair.

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