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    No, Really

    Sign of the apocalypse? $4.95 burrito place Taqueria La Tapatia adds valetparking

    Sarah Rufca
    Sep 8, 2012 | 4:40 pm

    If there's one thing that's annoying about restaurants on Lower Westheimer, it's the prevalence of valet parking. Look, I get it.

    Most of these places — i.e. Indika, Mark's, Underbelly — have a clientele that's accustomed to service, one that certainly isn't afraid to spend a little more money.

    For the rest of us, the search for street parking is a reasonable cost in exchange for having a dense corridor of cool spots uninterrupted by vast swaths of expensive pavement.

    But you know things have gone too far when a valet stand pops up at the Montrose location of Taqueria La Tapatia.

    I'll debate the virtues of the all-night establishment against the likes of Spanish Flower with anyone (although "better than Ruchi's" is pretty much a given), and while the huge bar and blaring Tejano jukebox would not have worked for my once-upon-a-time late night cram sessions, the cheap but potent margaritas and queso-covered burritos still make it an occasional post-drinking destination.

    So I say this with love: Seriously, Tapatia? Valet?

    As far as I can tell, the valet stand only comes out during peak dinner hours and the service is complimentary, so maybe the volume at that time makes it worth the inherent hassle. And yet I still feel that my central question is unanswered: WHY?

    Are there people who demand a $4.95 burrito but are willing to part with a couple more bucks for a guy to handle that whole parking sitch? Is the large-ish parking lot, secondary parking lot across the street and abundant street parking south of Richmond not convenient enough?

    I would like to propose some basic guidelines for restaurants thinking about adding valet service:

    1. If the name of your restaurant has the word "taqueria," don't have valet.

    That's not a Mexican thing. If you are a "restaurante" and you want to have valet, I won't stop you (provided the rules below apply). But taquerias are not fancy. Anything called a "bar and grill" is not fancy. Same goes for diners, pubs (Queen Vic can have a waiver) and any place that might be frequented by Guy Fieri.

    It should be noted that Tapatia owners seem to agree — the website lists the restaurant name as La Tapatia Mexican Cafe.

    2. If I can eat at your restaurant for under $10, don't have valet.

    If a burrito costs $4.95 and I have to tip the valet at least $1, you have just added 20 percent to the cost of my potential meal.

    Why are you doing that? Do you want me to go eat at Chapultepec Lupita instead? Please don't make me do that.

    3. If you're going to give me a hard time about running my credit card in exchange for cash, don't have valet.

    I do not carry cash. Like, ever. Me and cash are never, ever getting back together. So if valet parking is my only option, prepare to see me at the bar, charging my credit card $5 in exchange for something to give the guys in the vests. I know the restaurant loses money on credit card fees when I do this, but you designed the system so don't get mad at me about it.

    If you don't want to lose a little money to have a valet service, now you know how I feel.

    4. If you have more than enough close, convenient parking, you probably shouldn't have valet.

    That's just greedy, right? However:

    5. If I am likely to wear uncomfortable shoes to your establishment, you should have valet.

    Heels — the really, really cute kind that feature a skinny stiletto and add about six inches to your legs — are not meant to be walked in for more than about 12 steps. Please plan your entire restaurant around this.

    6. If you employ a sommelier, you should think about offering valet.

    What does a sommelier have to do with valet? In theory, nothing, but the addition of a sommelier/mixologist/etc. marks a clear dividing line between a restaurant that is focusing on value and one that accepts additional costs to provide premium service and a better experience. In denser parts of the city, like Lower Westheimer, Montrose or Midtown, valet qualifies as a useful service.

    Any rules I missed? Leave them in the comments.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Rising Star

    Houston restaurateur dishes on swapping Tex-Mex for new retro steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 27, 2026 | 11:15 am
    Star Rover exterior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    Restaurateur Ford Fry surprised Houston diners when he announced in January that he was closing his Tex-Mex restaurant Superica and replacing it with Star Rover, a casual, family-friendly steakhouse. With Star Rover now open for dinner and weekend brunch, Fry — who also owns Star Rover's neighbor La Lucha, casual taqueria Little Rey, and River Oaks fine dining restaurant State of Grace — explains that the decision came down to both economics and his own desire to provide the Heights with something he thought was lacking.

    “This was our smallest Superica. Superica for us takes so much — every day you’re making salsas, tortillas, it’s so prep heavy,” Fry says. “We weren’t big enough to be that successful. We didn’t have enough seats to make the labor make sense.”

    Rather than compete against Houston’s seemingly limitless roster of Tex-Mex restaurants, Fry saw an opportunity for a steakhouse that occupied a space somewhere between chains like Texas Roadhouse and Outback and fine dining staples like Pappas Bros. Enter Star Rover, which already has a popular location in Nashville.

    Just as La Lucha channels Fry’s childhood memories of the San Jacinto Inn, Star Rover takes some inspiration from iconic Houston restaurant Hofbrau. Diners of a certain age will see places like Hofbrau in the restaurant’s design. The walls are adorned with framed pictures, taxidermy, vintage advertising, and more.

    “The inspiration is if you were some old Texas dude who wanted to start a steakhouse you’d find a bunch of crap and put it on the walls,” Fry says. “We want to make it cool, but it’s got to take you away from what it was. Did we achieve that? I hope so.”

    Fry tasked chef Bobby Matos with updating the Star Rover menu for Houston. It starts with a selection of steaks — chopped, filet, T-bone, ribeye, or skirt — along with a half-chicken, blackened redfish, and chicken fried chicken. All of them come with milk rolls, salad, fries, and onion rings. Diners who want a little surf and turf can add either a crab cake or a fried lobster tail.

    The appetizer menu is similarly tidy, consisting of shrimp cocktail, oysters (raw or fried), potato skins, and vegetable crudités. Desserts include a selection of pies as well as soft serve ice cream.

    Since the steaks are thinner than those served at upscale steakhouses, they’re cooked hot and fast on a plancha and basted in butter.

    “We control the costs by the size of the meat,” Fry explains. “Meat is so expensive, how do you do a family-friendly steakhouse? It’s a 12-ounce ribeye and it’s choice. We put the right amount of age on it.”

    Tucked away in the corner of the menu is text that reads “Cheeseburger?! Just ask!” People should, because it’s a hearty half-pound, New York tavern-style burger that sits on grilled onions, is topped with cheese and mayonnaise, and is served on a classic potato bun. Think of it as the thick-patty counterpart to La Lucha’s thin-patty Pharmacy Burger.

    “I call it a lowbrow steakhouse burger,” Fry says. “It’s not a Peter Luger, but it may be better and it won’t cost as much.”

    Star Rover’s weekend brunch menu features the same pancakes that had been a staple at Superica. They’re joined by some new items, including baked-to-order cinnamon rolls, breakfast tacos, and kolaches that use sausage from Houston’s Roegels Barbecue Co.

    Star Rover exterior

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    The restaurant has one other old-school touch in the form of an eating challenge called the “I Ate the 76er.” Available with 24 hours notice, diners who finish a 76-ounce steak, milk rolls, salad, onion rings, and fries in under an hour will receive the meal for free, plus a t-shirt and the opportunity to sign a winners’ wall. The challenge reflects the spirit Fry is bringing to Star Rover.

    “A lot of it is scratching that itch of something fun I want to do versus what I think the neighborhood will like,” he says. “We did a version of this in Nashville with a stage. It’s where I eat when I’m in Nashville, because it’s what I want to eat when I’m there.”

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    news/restaurants-bars
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