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    Take me to Avondale

    Popular Montrose restaurant swaps French focus for wine bar chic

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 16, 2018 | 2:25 pm
    L'Olivier interior
    Changes are coming to L'Olivier.
    L'Olivier Restaurant & Bar/Facebook

    An acclaimed Montrose restaurant is jumping on the reconcepting trend that’s becoming increasingly popular in Houston.

    French restaurant L’Olivier will soon become a new concept called Avondale Food & Wine, co-owner Mary Clarkson tells CultureMap. The new restaurant will serve as both a platform for chef Olivier Ciesielski to embrace a more diverse menu and allow for the addition of an all-new retail wine component overseen by local wine consultant Nate Rose.

    “After six and a half years of being open, Chef Olivier and I decided that we wanted to take a departure from where L’Olivier is currently,” Clarkson says (full disclosure: she is also a regular co-host on CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast). “We want to broaden our base as far as our diners. We want to make a more casual concept that people could be at every single day.“

    L’Olivier will serve its last meal on September 8. It will reopen as Avondale on September 13. The new restaurant will introduce itself to diners on September 12 with a special screening of Grand Cru, a documentary about winemaker Pascal Marchand, at the River Oaks Theater. Tickets are already available via Eventbrite for either the screening or the screening with bites and a wine tasting.

    Closing for a few days will allow Clarkson and Ciesielski to make a number of changes to the space. They include new art that pays tribute to Avondale, the historic neighborhood within Montrose where the restaurant is located, a new mural on the planters out front, and new lighting in the bar.

    Most importantly, the private dining room will become a retail showcase for 100 bottles of wine selected by Rose. The showroom will have its own entrance so that potential customers don’t have to walk through the restaurant just to buy wine. To facilitate the change, the restaurant will convert from a mixed-beverage liquor license to one that allows it to sell only beer and wine.

    In terms of the restaurant, Ciesielski and sous chef Ronald Shaw will collaborate on a new menu that focuses on shareable plates made with seasonal ingredients and local produce. According to Clarkson, the 15 or so items will change as often as every two weeks. Rather than staying rooted in French classics, the new direction will allow the chefs to be more creative in their techniques.

    “We want it to be reasonably priced,” Clarkson says. “A dynamic menu that is not rooted in one type of cuisine. It will have American and European influences on it, but it won’t be tied to any one cuisine.”

    Rose’s wine selections will focus on the small, boutique wineries that he built relationships with during a 10-plus year career at Spec’s. The restaurant will feature 20 by-the-glass selections that change constantly.

    “We want to be the outlet for the smallest of the small family producers that have a personal connection to our success, and we have a personal connection to their success,” Rose says. “The by-the-glass list will be constantly changing. They may turn in less than a week; it’s hard to say when you’re securing a single case of wine. The good thing about a by-the-glass program like that is people get to try wines they’d never be able to try in a traditional format.”

    Diners will have the next three weeks to make a final visit to L’Olivier. Ciesielski will run a special, five-course menu of customer favorites, and the bar will offer specials on spirits: $5 for wells and $10 for higher end bourbon and Scotch. Asked about whether her chef and business partner will miss seeing his name on the door, Clarkson has a quick reply.

    “Olivier, to his credit, has always been someone who was willing to make whatever changes are necessary to make what he’s doing a success,” Clarkson says. “I think he realized he’s done what he wanted to do with L’Olivier. He wants to do something different, and that’s what Avondale is all about.”

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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 516 and 517

    Food experts draft the best dishes at Vietnamese restaurants in Houston

    CultureMap Staff
    Dec 12, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Moon Rabbit food spread
    Moon Rabbit/Facebook
    Two panelists selected dishes from Moon Rabbit in the Heights.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” CultureMap editor Eric Sandler recruited five of his friends and colleagues to select their favorite dishes at Vietnamese restaurants in Houston via a fantasy football-style draft.



    The panelists — Stevie Vu of the Chowdown in Chinatown Facebook group and Asia Society, Texas; Chelsea Thomas of Local Foods Group; Heights Grocer and Montrose Grocer owner Mary Clarkson; Have A Nice Day AAPI pop-up market co-founder Isabel Protomartir; Houston BBQ Festival co-founder Michael Fulmer — joined Sandler to draft Vietnamese dishes and restaurants in six categories. They are:

    • Appetizer/Salad
    • Entree
    • Sandwich
    • Soup
    • Viet-Cajun
    • Wildcard

    In the first round, Vu kicked things off by selecting the sandwiches from Chinatown institution Nguyen Ngo. Thomas followed with the duck salad at Thien An. Clarkson took the mango-papaya salad from Old Saigon Cafe, and Sandler scored the Beef 7 Ways at Chinatown favorite Saigon Pagolac. Protomartir took the Duck House’s crispy egg rolls, and Fulmer closed round one with the beef rolls at Nam Giao, which holds a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide.

    Sandler shared the full results on Instagram.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Eric Sandler (@ericsandler)


    As he noted, the draft results include some of Houston’s most prominent Vietnamese restaurant as well as a few under-the-radar choices that will give listeners some new options to try. Listen to the full episode on any podcast platform to hear the panelists explain the choices and recommend a few places that they could have drafted instead.



    In this week’s second episode, chef Christine Ha and her husband John Suh join Sandler to review the results and pick a winner. Since no one selected their restaurant The Blind Goat, each drafter is on an equal footing.

    Listen to the full episode to hear who won. Ha and Suh also share thoughts on their favorite selections by each panelist. They also catch us up on the latest happenings at both The Blind Goat and Stuffed Belly, their sandwich shop, including the recent addition of a gumbo pot pie to The Blind Goat’s menu.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by The Blind Goat (@theblindgoathtx)


    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

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