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    Take me to Avondale

    Popular Montrose restaurant swaps French focus for wine bar chic

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 16, 2018 | 2:25 pm
    L'Olivier interior
    Changes are coming to L'Olivier.
    L'Olivier Restaurant & Bar/Facebook

    An acclaimed Montrose restaurant is jumping on the reconcepting trend that’s becoming increasingly popular in Houston.

    French restaurant L’Olivier will soon become a new concept called Avondale Food & Wine, co-owner Mary Clarkson tells CultureMap. The new restaurant will serve as both a platform for chef Olivier Ciesielski to embrace a more diverse menu and allow for the addition of an all-new retail wine component overseen by local wine consultant Nate Rose.

    “After six and a half years of being open, Chef Olivier and I decided that we wanted to take a departure from where L’Olivier is currently,” Clarkson says (full disclosure: she is also a regular co-host on CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast). “We want to broaden our base as far as our diners. We want to make a more casual concept that people could be at every single day.“

    L’Olivier will serve its last meal on September 8. It will reopen as Avondale on September 13. The new restaurant will introduce itself to diners on September 12 with a special screening of Grand Cru, a documentary about winemaker Pascal Marchand, at the River Oaks Theater. Tickets are already available via Eventbrite for either the screening or the screening with bites and a wine tasting.

    Closing for a few days will allow Clarkson and Ciesielski to make a number of changes to the space. They include new art that pays tribute to Avondale, the historic neighborhood within Montrose where the restaurant is located, a new mural on the planters out front, and new lighting in the bar.

    Most importantly, the private dining room will become a retail showcase for 100 bottles of wine selected by Rose. The showroom will have its own entrance so that potential customers don’t have to walk through the restaurant just to buy wine. To facilitate the change, the restaurant will convert from a mixed-beverage liquor license to one that allows it to sell only beer and wine.

    In terms of the restaurant, Ciesielski and sous chef Ronald Shaw will collaborate on a new menu that focuses on shareable plates made with seasonal ingredients and local produce. According to Clarkson, the 15 or so items will change as often as every two weeks. Rather than staying rooted in French classics, the new direction will allow the chefs to be more creative in their techniques.

    “We want it to be reasonably priced,” Clarkson says. “A dynamic menu that is not rooted in one type of cuisine. It will have American and European influences on it, but it won’t be tied to any one cuisine.”

    Rose’s wine selections will focus on the small, boutique wineries that he built relationships with during a 10-plus year career at Spec’s. The restaurant will feature 20 by-the-glass selections that change constantly.

    “We want to be the outlet for the smallest of the small family producers that have a personal connection to our success, and we have a personal connection to their success,” Rose says. “The by-the-glass list will be constantly changing. They may turn in less than a week; it’s hard to say when you’re securing a single case of wine. The good thing about a by-the-glass program like that is people get to try wines they’d never be able to try in a traditional format.”

    Diners will have the next three weeks to make a final visit to L’Olivier. Ciesielski will run a special, five-course menu of customer favorites, and the bar will offer specials on spirits: $5 for wells and $10 for higher end bourbon and Scotch. Asked about whether her chef and business partner will miss seeing his name on the door, Clarkson has a quick reply.

    “Olivier, to his credit, has always been someone who was willing to make whatever changes are necessary to make what he’s doing a success,” Clarkson says. “I think he realized he’s done what he wanted to do with L’Olivier. He wants to do something different, and that’s what Avondale is all about.”

    closingsnews-you-can-eatwineopenings
    news/restaurants-bars

    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    news/restaurants-bars

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