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    Take me to Avondale

    Popular Montrose restaurant swaps French focus for wine bar chic

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 16, 2018 | 2:25 pm
    L'Olivier interior
    Changes are coming to L'Olivier.
    L'Olivier Restaurant & Bar/Facebook

    An acclaimed Montrose restaurant is jumping on the reconcepting trend that’s becoming increasingly popular in Houston.

    French restaurant L’Olivier will soon become a new concept called Avondale Food & Wine, co-owner Mary Clarkson tells CultureMap. The new restaurant will serve as both a platform for chef Olivier Ciesielski to embrace a more diverse menu and allow for the addition of an all-new retail wine component overseen by local wine consultant Nate Rose.

    “After six and a half years of being open, Chef Olivier and I decided that we wanted to take a departure from where L’Olivier is currently,” Clarkson says (full disclosure: she is also a regular co-host on CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast). “We want to broaden our base as far as our diners. We want to make a more casual concept that people could be at every single day.“

    L’Olivier will serve its last meal on September 8. It will reopen as Avondale on September 13. The new restaurant will introduce itself to diners on September 12 with a special screening of Grand Cru, a documentary about winemaker Pascal Marchand, at the River Oaks Theater. Tickets are already available via Eventbrite for either the screening or the screening with bites and a wine tasting.

    Closing for a few days will allow Clarkson and Ciesielski to make a number of changes to the space. They include new art that pays tribute to Avondale, the historic neighborhood within Montrose where the restaurant is located, a new mural on the planters out front, and new lighting in the bar.

    Most importantly, the private dining room will become a retail showcase for 100 bottles of wine selected by Rose. The showroom will have its own entrance so that potential customers don’t have to walk through the restaurant just to buy wine. To facilitate the change, the restaurant will convert from a mixed-beverage liquor license to one that allows it to sell only beer and wine.

    In terms of the restaurant, Ciesielski and sous chef Ronald Shaw will collaborate on a new menu that focuses on shareable plates made with seasonal ingredients and local produce. According to Clarkson, the 15 or so items will change as often as every two weeks. Rather than staying rooted in French classics, the new direction will allow the chefs to be more creative in their techniques.

    “We want it to be reasonably priced,” Clarkson says. “A dynamic menu that is not rooted in one type of cuisine. It will have American and European influences on it, but it won’t be tied to any one cuisine.”

    Rose’s wine selections will focus on the small, boutique wineries that he built relationships with during a 10-plus year career at Spec’s. The restaurant will feature 20 by-the-glass selections that change constantly.

    “We want to be the outlet for the smallest of the small family producers that have a personal connection to our success, and we have a personal connection to their success,” Rose says. “The by-the-glass list will be constantly changing. They may turn in less than a week; it’s hard to say when you’re securing a single case of wine. The good thing about a by-the-glass program like that is people get to try wines they’d never be able to try in a traditional format.”

    Diners will have the next three weeks to make a final visit to L’Olivier. Ciesielski will run a special, five-course menu of customer favorites, and the bar will offer specials on spirits: $5 for wells and $10 for higher end bourbon and Scotch. Asked about whether her chef and business partner will miss seeing his name on the door, Clarkson has a quick reply.

    “Olivier, to his credit, has always been someone who was willing to make whatever changes are necessary to make what he’s doing a success,” Clarkson says. “I think he realized he’s done what he wanted to do with L’Olivier. He wants to do something different, and that’s what Avondale is all about.”

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    news/restaurants-bars

    fit to print

    New York Times critic awards Houston restaurant 2 stars in glowing review

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 16, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Chopnblok food spread
    Courtesy of ChòpnBlọk
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    Let’s just call 2025 the year of ChòpnBlọk. In a review published Tuesday, December 16, the New York Times has awarded the Houston restaurant two stars (“very good”).

    Written by chief restaurant critic Tejal Rao, the review touts many of the same qualities that the Times already praised when it included ChòpnBlọk on its list of America’s 50 best restaurants.

    Rao writes that she usually avoids restaurants that serve food in bowls, but she’s impressed by the way that chef-owner Ope Amosu has put a West African spin on the concept.

    “For inspiration, Ope Amosu looked to the kind of chain restaurants that were built to scale, where flavors are often subdued to appeal to the broadest possible audience, focus-grouped to death. But the delight of ChòpnBlok is in its sure sense of self, its lively, multidimensional cooking and clear, delicious vision for modern food from the Black diaspora,” Rao writes.

    She singles out specific dishes, including the Nigerian red stew with short rib, the Black Star bowl with shrimp, and the signature Motherland, made with chicken, greens, and plantains. “It’s utterly simple, but draws you in for more with the mouthwatering twang of not-too-much MSG — an international shortcut to building umami that tends to be used carefully, and layered with other forms,” she writes.

    The review also touches on the way Amosu switched the restaurant from counter service to full service — described as “warm, informal, and quick with the jokes” — and his time working at Chipotle to learn the basics of the restaurant operations.

    A two-star review is only the latest instance of ChòpnBlọk receiving national attention. In addition to the Times 50 best list, Esquire recently named it one of America’s best new restaurants. The Michelin Guide awarded it a Bib Gourmand designation for 2025. Amosu earned a semifinalist nomination for Best Chef: Texas in the 2025 James Beard Awards.

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