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    Food for Thought

    The lost dog that's driving change in the restaurant pet ordinance: Lucy is onthe job, all paws in

    Marene Gustin
    Aug 10, 2011 | 2:20 pm
    • You could be hearing the pitter-patter of paws on patios pretty soon.
      Photo via Paws on Patios/Facebook
    • And that was the beginning of Paws on Patios.
      Photo via Paws on Patios/Facebook
    • Some reports say pet tourism is the next big thing in the travel industry.
      Photo via Paws on Patios/Facebook
    • So, are you in favor, or not in favor, of Paws on Patios?
      Photo via Paws on Patios

    You could be hearing the pitter-patter of paws on patios pretty soon.

    “We’re in the final stages of writing up the exceptions to allow restaurants that want to apply for a variance to allow dogs on their patios,” says Kathy Barton, spokesperson for the city’s Health and Human Services Department.

    I’ve written about this doggy dilemma before — actually last year about this same time when Mayor Annise Parker was looking for someone to step up and spearhead the issue.

    And someone did.

    Pat Walsh, a civil engineer, found Lucy, the now 6-year-old French spaniel, wandering around an indoor mall. And they’ve been together ever since.

    “She’s been my constant companion,” Walsh says. “We run at Memorial Park and we go to whatever bars and restaurants will let us in.”

    Some patios do allow dogs, either because they aren’t aware of the city ordinance banning “live animals on the premises of a food establishment” or, in some cases, because they would rather accommodate their pet-loving patrons than bow (wow?) to city hall. As one restaurant manager told me, “Sure we let our customers bring them but they know to sit by the patio gate and if anyone looks disapproving they make a quick getaway.”

    Allowing well-behaved pets on patios could be a boost to some restaurant businesses and even put Houston on the map for people who travel with their pets. There are more than one million Americans who travel with their pets.

    Anyway, one day Walsh and Lucy had joined some friends on the side patio of Empire Café when a waiter politely told him Lucy had to go.

    “He was very nice about it,” Walsh recalls. “He said he liked dogs but the restaurant could get fined if Lucy stayed. That’s when we started talking about how we could get the ordinance changed.”

    And that was the beginning of Paws on Patios.

    Walsh put together a Facebook community page, compiled data from other Texas cities — like Dallas, Austin, San Antonio and Boerne — that have ordinances allowing dogs, talked to restaurants, city officials and got 1,631 signatures on a petition to change the ordinance.

    “I’ve been talking to the mayor for several years about getting this changed,” says Ryan Rice of Life + Dog magazine and HoustonDogBlog.com. “But with everything I have going on, I didn’t have time to rally the troops. Pat’s done a great job of leading this grass roots effort and engaging all the stakeholders. He’s very diplomatic."

    And, although Rice is looking forward to taking his Cavalier King Charles spaniel Isabella to a restaurant patio, he has some words of advice.

    “It’s important to understand we need to be responsible pet parents.”

    Because, just like an unruly two-legged patron, a misbehaving pooch can also get the boot.

    But allowing well-behaved pets on patios could be a boost to some restaurant businesses and even put Houston on the map for people who travel with their pets. There are more than one million Americans who travel with their pets. According to the U.S Travel Association more than 49 percent of United States adult leisure travelers consider their pet to be part of the family and 18 percent of U.S. adult leisure travelers usually take their pets with them when they travel.

    Some reports say that pet tourism is the next big thing in the travel industry.

    “And we have so many dog parks here,” Walsh says, “It would be great for people who go to them not have to take their dogs home before they go get something to eat. And it would be good for our city to show that we’re on a par with Dallas and Austin.”

    A key component to the proposed change would be the choice to get a variance. Walsh says it’s important that it be market-driven, that only restaurants that want to allow dogs do so. Ones that don’t can still ban them, just like smoking on restaurant patios. The restaurant chooses whether they want dogs on their patios and the patrons choose whether they want to eat there.

    Which means you naysayers (yes, I’m talking to you, Ken Hoffman, and whoever it was that sicced the health department on Barnaby’s — it’s a restaurant named for a dog for crying out loud) will have the option to not dine at a dog friendly eatery.

    By the way, Walsh already has 18 restaurants that support the Paws on Patio movement, including Barnaby’s, T’afia, Beaver’s and even Kata Robata. And I’m sure there are a lot more out there who will sign on if their patrons ask them to, like Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar in River Oaks.

    “Absolutely we would be onboard with that,” managing partner Sam Governale says. “I have no problem with dogs on our patio.”

    Paws freedom just months away?

    The way it stands right now, the draft will be ready next week, then Paws on Patios, the Greater Houston Restaurant Association and other stakeholders will review the language, which is expected to include things like no pets on chairs and tables, pets must be licensed and vaccinated, patio must have an outside entrance and so on. Then it goes to city council for a vote.

    Then, according to the health department, there would be a variance posted online that a restaurant could download and mail in with a fee to get their patios pet approved.

    Gee, a fee. So that’s, like, more money for the city, which really, really could use some right about now.

    Anyway, Barton says we could start taking our pups to sup in a few months. If everything falls into place.

    So, are you in favor of paws on patios? And being on par with other cities' restaurant scenes? If so, then you really need to join the movement and let your favorite restaurants and councilmembers know.

    Obviously, I’m OK with this. More like two-paws up about it. Four, if I had four, but, well, I’m just a human.

    unspecified
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    Food trends

    Halal BBQ is booming in Texas, with Houston making a major contribution

    Associated Press
    Aug 25, 2026 | 4:30 pm
    Levant BBQ
    Levant BBQ
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    At 9 am on a scorching Saturday in June, nearly 100 people were already lined up outside Goldee’s BBQ, a small, wooden-shack restaurant in Fort Worth.

    First in line was 30-year-old Thanh Huynh, who had been sitting in a lawn chair on the joint’s rustic porch since 6:30 am.

    “I have, like, a whole list, and I’m going to spend lots of money here. It’ll be worth it,” he said, laughing while rattling off a long order of meats and sides from his phone’s Notes app as a sweet, smoky scent from nearby pits hung in the air.

    Opened in 2020 by a group of his friends, the restaurant was named the No. 1 barbecue spot in the state by Texas Monthly a year later, and then won a Bib Gourmand award from the prestigious Michelin Guide, given for “great food at a great value.”

    The restaurant serves classic Texas barbecue like craft pork belly, sausage, and ribs. But it also offers halal brisket, turkey, and lamb.

    "Halal" means meat raised and butchered in accordance with Islamic guidelines. It refers to the method in which the animals are slaughtered, one that focuses on humane treatment, cleanliness, and acknowledging the value of life — similar in concept to kosher food in Judaism.

    A growing number of halal places have opened around Fort Worth in recent years, and there are also non-halal restaurants that use halal beef, such as burger institution Kincaid's, the new Burger Vault in Keller, and the forthcoming Tick Tock Taco in Colleyville.

    Growing Texas trend
    At a time when Republican leaders are increasingly targeting the state’s growing Muslim communities, halal barbecue joints like Goldee’s are thriving in Texas. Across the state, Muslim pitmasters are gaining recognition for putting their own spin on one of Texas’ most iconic culinary traditions.

    At least a dozen barbecue spots now serve halal meats, including Yearby’s Barbecue & Waterice, run by Black Muslim couple CJ and Sabrina Henley, soon-to-be in Plano; and Levant Mediterranean BBQ, a restaurant with locations in Houston and Frisco that's bringing its menu of smoked beef and lamb to Sugar Land in late 2026 or early 2027. Truboy BBQ, which started as a mail order halal barbecue supplier, opened a brick-and-mortar restaurant in Missouri City last year.

    Goldee's Barbecue Goldee's Barbecue draws halal diners. Goldee's Barbecue/ Facebook

    “Now there are so many options, and for us to have highly rated barbecue, it’s a blessing,” said Haris Ghaffar, who drove an hour from Celina and stood in 90-degree weather for nearly two hours with a friend for the halal options at Goldee’s.

    Growing up in the 1990s, Ghaffar said a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich was one of the few halal meals he could eat while dining out. Back then, halal food was seen as serving a small community. Today, it’s a multibillion-dollar industry that’s part of the American culinary mainstream, said James Beard Award‑winning food writer Farhan Mustafa, who wrote about the rise of American halal barbecue for Bon Appétit magazine in 2025.

    “Halal food is American food,” said Mustafa, who is based in Seattle. “It belongs on your plate. It belongs in the casual chat. It belongs in hip hop tracks. It’s the most American thing there is.”

    Mustafa said Muslims are part of a growing list of communities putting their stamp on Texas barbecue. “Whether they’re first, second or third-generation Muslims or Muslim Americans or just Americans, they’re bringing what they know and what excites them,” he said.

    More than salt and pepper
    Texas barbecue is typically defined by salt-and-pepper brisket and pork ribs, but this new crop of halal pitmasters are adding inventive twists, often based on their own family heritages.

    Zain Shafi, a pitmaster and co-owner of Goldee’s, previously ran Sabar Barbecue, a food truck that offered Pakistani-infused halal dishes, such as brisket with rub that included spices like bay leaf and coriander.

    Sabar was nominated for Best BBQ in CultureMap's 2025 Tastemaker Awards, and made the list of Texas Monthly's Top 50 Barbecue Restaurants of 2025. The restaurant was also featured in a recently published BBQ book Texas BBQ: The Art of Low and Slow. He closed Sabar in December 2025 after two years.

    Sabar BBQ Sabar Barbecue offered a Pakistani twist on BBQ. Sabar Barbecue

    Shafi brought tandoori smoked turkey to Goldee’s menu. And sourcing halal cuts, he said, was a natural choice because they are “the highest quality” meats.

    Goldee’s chef and part owner Nupohn Inthanousay also blends his Laotian heritage, serving a smoked Lao “sai oua” sausage with sticky rice and a fiery, tangy dipping sauce.

    At Kafi BBQ in Irving, owner Salahodeen Abdul-Kafi brings halal Wagyu beef and Iraqi spices to classic Texas barbecue, challenging what he said is the “traditional old guard of Texas barbecue.”

    “My goal at Kafi BBQ is to make the best barbecue in Texas,” Abdul-Kafi said. “I have not been shy about that at all, and making the best barbecue in Texas does not necessarily have to include pork.”

    A former Silicon Valley tech worker, he moved to Texas six years ago in search of a Muslim community. On weekends in his backyard, he smoked brisket for friends. By 2024, he bought a smoker and opened Kafi BBQ.

    He said he spent months testing and perfecting recipes and finding local producers. Abdul-Kafi attributes his obsession with crafting a stand-out menu to the Islamic concept of “Ihsan”— an Arabic term meaning doing something with excellence for the sake of God.

    On a Sunday afternoon this summer, the restaurant’s red booths were packed with diners, drawn to menu items like the 13-spice Wagyu brisket, pomegranate-glazed beef belly burnt ends and Iraqi-inspired spicy beef sausage.

    “That sausage, I’d probably put it at the top sausage I’ve ever had, and we eat barbecue a lot. This place is unique,” said Jonathan Tate, a Fort Worth resident who came to Kafi BBQ with a friend after reading about it on a Facebook foodie group.

    “I don’t necessarily have to have it halal, but it’s nice to know they took good care of the food, the meat,” his friend Jon Sklar said, before going back in line to order oxtail.

    Kafi BBQ Meat at Kafi BBQ in Irving. Kafi BBQ

    'We love barbecue'
    Although political rhetoric against Muslims in Texas has become increasingly hostile — some GOP lawmakers even discussed a ban on halal food at a conference this month — pitmasters like Abdul-Kafi see the rise of halal barbecue as an effective counterargument.

    “It’s an example of exactly the opposite of what the Islamophobes talk about, right?” he said. “They say, ‘oh, Muslims don’t integrate, they stay alone, they don’t help society and all this stuff.’ And it’s like, I’m sitting here contributing to the most well-known cuisine of Texas.”

    One of the diners at Kafi BBQ, Houston native Muhammad Sohail, 23, said the restaurant reflects who he is — a proud Texan and Muslim. “This place is super important because I can see halal within the culture of Texas, which is my culture at this point,” Sohail said. “We love the food. We love meat. We’re Muslims and we love barbecue.”

    After finishing a big lunch with 10 relatives, Areeba Ali, a Dallas native of Indian heritage, said the restaurant’s appeal cuts across communities, which she said is evidence that halal barbecue isn’t a niche but resonates broadly with Texans. “If you look around in the restaurant, you see everybody in there — it’s not just one demographic in there,” Ali said.

    For Mustafa, that success is ultimately a testament to the resilience of Muslim American communities.

    “No matter how much they try to erase us, our food is here to stay,” he said. “You will see the power of just good food and the fact that most people really seem to understand that this is just as American as anything else.”

    ---

    This story was written and produced by Religion News Service and distributed by The Associated Press. It also includes information from the CultureMap archives.

    halalhalal barbecuemuslim communitiespitmastersreligiontexastexas barbecuetrendsculinary traditionsgoldee'sbarbecue
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