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    Foodie News

    Are beer floats a perfectly good waste of beer? And other questions from an ale lovers dinner

    Jason Eichorst
    Aug 3, 2011 | 2:57 pm
    Ama Dai sashimi

    Wine dinners are nothing new, but I was excited when Benjy’s on Washington continued its experimentation with local Texas breweries this summer, pairing up with Real Ale Brewing Co. for a recent six-course dinner by executive chef Mike Potowski and Real Ale owner Brad Farbstein.

    Before the dinner started, I got a sneak peek at Real Ale’s 15th Anniversary Ale, on tap at Benjy's. This is a fantastic beer that could replace a ten o’clock scotch. With a hint of molasses texture, it had to be chewed to get down. It’s an excellent, full-bodied ale similar to a port or stout. A few slices of smoked cheese would pair perfectly. Needless to say, the evening started off on the right foot.

    Beer floats remind me too much of my few attempts at sneaking beer past parents in my teenage years. Now that I’ve reached a legal age, I find it unnecessary to hide my beer in ice cream.

    As the event, began we were welcomed to our seats. Being seated is an uncomfortable experience for me — I’m always concerned about being placed at the head of the table. The position demands responsible behavior. One must stimulate conversation, liaise between staff and guests. Not everyone is capable of such demands, so of course this was my burden to bear. Thankfully my pre-dinner beverage loosened my inhibitions just enough to accept the challenge.

    By the end of the night, all were conversing and laughing, and although the alcohol might have played a role, I truly believe that it was due to positive leadership at the head of the table.

    The biggest culinary disappointment was the amuse bouche, a cheese "lollipop" encrusted with espresso grounds. Unfortunately the tangy, syrupy Sisyphus Barleywine pairing failed to cut the bitterness of the coffee and the muted flavor of the soft Polo cheese was somewhat odd in the mouth, similar to biting into a ball of butter.

    However the local ama dai (a.k.a. red snapper) sashimi with jalapeño oil and citrus vinaigrette had a nice mix of salty and tangy tones, with Rio Blanco Pale Ale as a nice, light, slightly bitter foil. Next was the forest mushroom thin-crust pizza with fontina, pine nuts and a mercifully light dash of truffle oil alongside a Full Moon Pale Rye Ale, which was a bit richer and bolder, with a nice balance of bitter and sweet flavors.

    Of course, how can you go wrong with pizza and beer?

    I was impressed by the Black Hill Farms pork rillette with Lost Gold IPA, and by the mini-cauldron of jumbo lump crab with unusual black fried rice that was served with a Firemans #4 Blonde Ale. But my personal favorite was the coco-crusted Akaushi beef braised short ribs. The meat was insanely tender (and fell apart in my mouth) and I loved the balance between savory and sweet in the short ribs. The combination with the Brewhouse Brown Ale nicely complemented the heartiness of the dish.

    I would have preferred an alternative dessert to end the meal rather than the coffee porter float with bourbon walnut ice cream. The Real Ale’s coffee porter, is one of my personal favorites but it's simply best as a stand-alone beer with maybe a side of cheese and fruit, or even some dark chocolate truffles.

    Beer floats remind me too much of my few attempts at sneaking beer past parents in my teenage years. Now that I’ve reached a legal age, I find it unnecessary to hide my beer in ice cream.

    I left satisfied and impressed, with two new beers on my favorites list —Rio Blanco Pale Ale and 15th Anniversary Ale. What more could I ask?

    Fireman's No. 4 Blonde Ale from Real Ale

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    Food experts draft the best dishes at Vietnamese restaurants in Houston

    CultureMap Staff
    Dec 12, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Moon Rabbit food spread
    Moon Rabbit/Facebook
    Two panelists selected dishes from Moon Rabbit in the Heights.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” CultureMap editor Eric Sandler recruited five of his friends and colleagues to select their favorite dishes at Vietnamese restaurants in Houston via a fantasy football-style draft.



    The panelists — Stevie Vu of the Chowdown in Chinatown Facebook group and Asia Society, Texas; Chelsea Thomas of Local Foods Group; Heights Grocer and Montrose Grocer owner Mary Clarkson; Have A Nice Day AAPI pop-up market co-founder Isabel Protomartir; Houston BBQ Festival co-founder Michael Fulmer — joined Sandler to draft Vietnamese dishes and restaurants in six categories. They are:

    • Appetizer/Salad
    • Entree
    • Sandwich
    • Soup
    • Viet-Cajun
    • Wildcard

    In the first round, Vu kicked things off by selecting the sandwiches from Chinatown institution Nguyen Ngo. Thomas followed with the duck salad at Thien An. Clarkson took the mango-papaya salad from Old Saigon Cafe, and Sandler scored the Beef 7 Ways at Chinatown favorite Saigon Pagolac. Protomartir took the Duck House’s crispy egg rolls, and Fulmer closed round one with the beef rolls at Nam Giao, which holds a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide.

    Sandler shared the full results on Instagram.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Eric Sandler (@ericsandler)


    As he noted, the draft results include some of Houston’s most prominent Vietnamese restaurant as well as a few under-the-radar choices that will give listeners some new options to try. Listen to the full episode on any podcast platform to hear the panelists explain the choices and recommend a few places that they could have drafted instead.



    In this week’s second episode, chef Christine Ha and her husband John Suh join Sandler to review the results and pick a winner. Since no one selected their restaurant The Blind Goat, each drafter is on an equal footing.

    Listen to the full episode to hear who won. Ha and Suh also share thoughts on their favorite selections by each panelist. They also catch us up on the latest happenings at both The Blind Goat and Stuffed Belly, their sandwich shop, including the recent addition of a gumbo pot pie to The Blind Goat’s menu.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by The Blind Goat (@theblindgoathtx)


    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

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