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    It's a new dawn

    Acclaimed Houston chef pivots from downtown restaurant

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 24, 2020 | 1:47 pm

    Dawn Burrell is moving on. The chef, who earned a James Beard semifinalist nomination in the Best Chef: Texas category, has parted ways with Kulture, the downtown restaurant where she’s worked as the executive chef for the past two-and-a-half years.

    Burrell tells CultureMap that a number of factors contributed to her decision, primarily her need to help her mother recover from a stroke she suffered in February. For the chef, working in close proximity to a large group of people — especially people who make not be taking the same precautions she is to prevent contracting COVID-19 — presents too much of a risk to both her health and her mother’s.

    “My focus right now is my mother,” Burrell says. “While the world is sorting itself out, this is an opportunity to make sure she’s okay.”

    Like many downtown restaurants, Kulture is currently closed. Burrell says she told Kulture owner Marcus Davis that she would be interested in helping the restaurant transition to operating without her, but that’s still up in the air.

    Instead of working at a restaurant, Burrell is expanding Pivot, the meal delivery service she started in conjunction with local non-profit I’ll Have What She’s Having. Pivot provides meals for two, four, or six people along with personal anecdotes from Burrell. They're available from her website, chefdawnburrell.com.

    The menus draw from a variety of experiences and globally-inspired flavors. Beyond Kulture’s focus on Southern and Caribbean-inspired dishes, Burrell also worked as a sous chef at Uchi and Uchiko. Dishes include salmon croquettes with smoked crème fraiche, warm pea and potato salad, lentil hummus, and fonio "tabbouleh."

    “During these trying times, Pivot also strives to meet the current need of working families,” Burrell said in a release. ‘It is designed in order to alleviate some of the pressures and day-to-day responsibilities that come with maintaining a household and feeding a family wholesome meals.”

    Burrell also acknowledges that she’s working on another restaurant project but isn’t ready to divulge the details yet beyond that she’s considering a cloud kitchen-type operation that would allow her to work with a relatively small team and limit her potential for exposure.

    “I don’t want to have to be around a lot of people in order to do my job,” Burrell says. “That’s what the restaurant industry requires. That’s why i decided to chef the way I’m working currently until we can find a way to be around each other.”

    Dawn Burrell holds a dish she sells via the Pivot meal delivery service.

    Dawn Burrell shrimp dish
    Photo by Amy Scott Photography
    Dawn Burrell holds a dish she sells via the Pivot meal delivery service.
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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 516 and 517

    Food experts draft the best dishes at Vietnamese restaurants in Houston

    CultureMap Staff
    Dec 12, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Moon Rabbit food spread
    Moon Rabbit/Facebook
    Two panelists selected dishes from Moon Rabbit in the Heights.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” CultureMap editor Eric Sandler recruited five of his friends and colleagues to select their favorite dishes at Vietnamese restaurants in Houston via a fantasy football-style draft.



    The panelists — Stevie Vu of the Chowdown in Chinatown Facebook group and Asia Society, Texas; Chelsea Thomas of Local Foods Group; Heights Grocer and Montrose Grocer owner Mary Clarkson; Have A Nice Day AAPI pop-up market co-founder Isabel Protomartir; Houston BBQ Festival co-founder Michael Fulmer — joined Sandler to draft Vietnamese dishes and restaurants in six categories. They are:

    • Appetizer/Salad
    • Entree
    • Sandwich
    • Soup
    • Viet-Cajun
    • Wildcard

    In the first round, Vu kicked things off by selecting the sandwiches from Chinatown institution Nguyen Ngo. Thomas followed with the duck salad at Thien An. Clarkson took the mango-papaya salad from Old Saigon Cafe, and Sandler scored the Beef 7 Ways at Chinatown favorite Saigon Pagolac. Protomartir took the Duck House’s crispy egg rolls, and Fulmer closed round one with the beef rolls at Nam Giao, which holds a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide.

    Sandler shared the full results on Instagram.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Eric Sandler (@ericsandler)


    As he noted, the draft results include some of Houston’s most prominent Vietnamese restaurant as well as a few under-the-radar choices that will give listeners some new options to try. Listen to the full episode on any podcast platform to hear the panelists explain the choices and recommend a few places that they could have drafted instead.



    In this week’s second episode, chef Christine Ha and her husband John Suh join Sandler to review the results and pick a winner. Since no one selected their restaurant The Blind Goat, each drafter is on an equal footing.

    Listen to the full episode to hear who won. Ha and Suh also share thoughts on their favorite selections by each panelist. They also catch us up on the latest happenings at both The Blind Goat and Stuffed Belly, their sandwich shop, including the recent addition of a gumbo pot pie to The Blind Goat’s menu.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by The Blind Goat (@theblindgoathtx)


    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

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