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    Doin' it in Texas

    New wine shop and tasting room uncorks boho charm and eclectic pours in The Heights

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 28, 2022 | 2:17 pm

    The Heights will soon welcome a new wine shop and tasting room. Reata Cellars will open July 6 at 633 West 19th St.

    A Spanish word that refers to the leather rope carried by Mexican vaqueros — and also the name of the ranch in the classic film Giant — Reata unites wine industry veteran Mary Dodson with Sandy Epps, a former music industry star who also operated a wine bar in Columbus, Texas. Together, they’ve transformed a former insurance office into an intimate space where people can experience wine — primarily through drinking it, of course, but also by talking about it.

    “We wanted to make it more like if you were walking into a Spanish winery, but when we gutted it and discovered the bohemian, ’70s industrial vibe, we decided to go with it,” Epps says about the space, which has exposed brick walls and concrete floors. “It gives it a charm.”

    Adding to that charm are furniture pieces built by Epps’ daughter Allison and art that both women have collected over the years. Epps’ history in the music business also gets a nod courtesy of the framed gold and platinum records she earned as the manger for legendary Texas bands the Butthole Surfers and the Toadies.

    Dodson assembled the opening selection of approximately 60 bottles by selecting wines she knows well from her time as a wine distributor. The list is on smaller producers that customers won’t find at any of the nearby grocery stores. It comes everything from Italian sparkling wine to domestic producers and the wine produced by Houston master sommelier Guy Stout.

    “The wine selection is playful. It’s supposed to not have one direction,” Dodson says. “It’s going to come from my past and the people we love. The people who bring us what we’re looking for, which is [wines] that aren’t everywhere, that we can support.”

    “My philosophy is there’s a story in every bottle of wine,” Epps adds. “That’s our tagline. I wanted a space that was small and intimate, where we could talk about wine, share stories, and become friends.”

    Reata holds a winery license, which allows it to both import wines and make its own vintages. Those plans are still a little fluid, but Dodson sees the potential to use grapes from both Texas and other parts of the world, adorned with labels designed by Epps’ artist friends. “Any person or estate that’s affected us over the years that we’re able to be part of, we will be,” she says.

    For now, Reata plans to be open Wednesday through Saturday. With a rotating selection of five wines by-the-glass, it's an ideal pre-dinner option for people heading to nearby restaurants like Squable, Harold's, and La Lucha. Customers may snack on cheeses from Houston Dairymaids or charcuterie boards from Gourmet Foods. Over time, they plan to hold tasting events with visiting winemakers and create a buyers club for regulars.

    “Hopefully people want to hang out with us,” Dodson muses. “Other than that, it’s being playful. It’s having fun with what you’re doing. Understanding that working hard dosen’t mean not having fun. It means understanding what you’re doing and being passionate about it.”

    Reata will open with approximately 60 wines.

    Reata Cellars interior
    Photo by Brittney Ellaway
    Reata will open with approximately 60 wines.
    openingswine
    news/restaurants-bars

    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

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