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    Food for Thought

    The best fried chicken in Houston: Think champagne, not fast food

    Marene Gustin
    Jun 28, 2011 | 11:05 am
    • National Fried Chicken Day is July 6.
    • Max's Wine Dive has T-shirts with the slogan “Fried chicken and champagne, whythe hell not?” Seriously, why the hell not indulge in their combo?
    • Ziggy Gruber's South Bronx Fried Chicken
      Photo by Marene Gustin

    I once wrote that when I was very young and we didn’t have a lot of money, we could only afford to eat meat once a week, when Mom would make crispy fried chicken for Sunday supper after church.

    I actually had to apologize to Dad for that because, technically, yes, sliced bologna is meat. Thanks for pointing that out Dad.

    Anyway, Mom got her recipe from Grandma, who probably got it from her mother. My Dad remembers his Ma (his step grandmother) killing a chicken in their backyard for special occasions and frying it up.

    “Fried chicken was a big deal,” he says.

    Fried chicken was a staple in the South, still is, but as I grew up I got away from eating it. First, because even though when I was a struggling twentysomething and loved me a cheap biscuit and a piece from Popeye’s, I eventually eschewed fast food because of the whole factory farm business and how it grew from the fast food industry to destroy the family farm, create Frankenstein animals that are horribly treated and slaughtered, and pollute our land and water.

    Good fried chicken is heaven on earth when it’s hot right out of the kitchen, but the true test is if it’s still wonderful served cold the next day.

    Scuse me, I’ll climb down off my soapbox now, but if you want the facts check out Nicolette Hahn Niman’s Righteous Porkchop. Yes, that Niman.

    Anyhow, I quit eating fried chicken at fast food joints and didn’t make it myself because I’m not good with the whole hot oil thing. You know, burning yourself and setting off the smoke alarm.

    But in light of National Fried Chicken Day on July 6 (what, it’s not on your calendar?) I’ve decided to get back to my roots and luckily Houston has some great places to eat real fried chicken.

    First off, there’s the legendary Frenchy’s Chicken, not the franchises mind you, but the original one in the Third Ward. The spicy, Cajun, never greasy chicken here is worth the wait in the long lines. It’s a real Houston institution. I once attended a River Oaks dinner party where the host drove to the Third Ward and brought back a mess of Frenchy’s fried chicken and collard greens and served it on fine china with a chilled Pouilly-Fuissé. Best. Dinner. Party. Ever.

    That was a few years ago, but today more and more chef-driven restaurants are doing real Southern fried chicken.

    Phil Mitchell of Phil & Derek’s Restaurant and Wine Bar subscribes to the Cajun theory, using regular milk and flour and special Cajun spices to coat his birds, which turn up in Cobb salads and on the Sunday brunch buffet with waffles and syrup.

    Of course, if you’re into wings and waffles, The Breakfast Klub is a go-to must. The Klub is the first place I ever tasted wings and waffles and the blending of crispy chicken and sweet Belgian waffles with syrup was eye opening.

    Max’s Wine Dive, a forerunner of the gastro explosion on Washington Ave. that opened in 2006, made its reputation with gourmet down home fried chicken. Its house-made jalapeño and buttermilk-marinated chicken, deep-fried slow and low, is a delicious foodie tribute to childhood eats. It’s why they have T-shirts with the slogan “Fried chicken and champagne, why the hell not?” made up.

    Seriously, why the hell not indulge in that combo?

    Craving a fried chicken fix for lunch? Check out Randy Evans’ Haven on Thursday when the $10 Blue Plate Special offers a sublime old school fried chicken meal. No wings and waffles here, but for a different take on fried do try the amazing dish of fried chicken livers with andouille cream gravy atop buttermilk biscuits.

    While this is nothing like anything I ever ate growing up, it is truly a decadent comfort food. Maybe not the most heart and waist friendly dish on the menu but one should try at least once in your life.

    Least you think fried chicken is only an American Southern dish, note that fried foods have been prepared in Europe since the Middle Ages. Fried chicken was known as pollo fritto in Italy, as Ga Xao in Vietnam and the Scotts had a tradition of deep frying chicken in lard long before Scottish immigrants brought it to America.

    And look no further than Houston’s own Kenny & Ziggy’s Deli for some comfort-fried chicken that is decidedly not Southern. At least not south of the Mason-Dixon Line.

    Third-generation deli man Ziggy Gruber makes a special dish called South Bronx Fried Chicken that’s crunchy and juicy. He mixes matzo meal with flour for an extra crunchy crust. It’s a Jewish take on a Southern dish. But if you want to indulge in this tasty treat you need to get on the email list. Gruber only makes it occasionally and you’ll only know about it when he sends out an email blast.

    However you make it, the hallmark of good fried chicken is that it’s tasty, crunchy and not dried out on the inside. And not too greasy. If it takes an entire role of paper towels to eat a wing, it’s just not right.

    And good fried chicken is heaven on earth when it’s hot right out of the kitchen, but the true test is if it’s still wonderful served cold the next day.

    Which kinda makes me wonder why National Fried Chicken Day is July 6 and not July 3, so you can stuff your July Fourth picnic basket with cold fried chicken. And maybe a chilled bottle of Pouilly-Fuissé.

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    where to drink on Derby Day

    These Houston restaurants and bars are going all out for Derby Day 2026

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 27, 2026 | 5:04 pm
    Permission Whiskey Kentucky Derby party
    Courtesy of Permission Whiskey & Service Co.
    Permission Whiskey goes all out with a bluegrass band and a live horse.

    Bust out the big hats, iron that seersucker, and flaunt those florals, because the Kentucky Derby takes place this Saturday, May 2. Since many Houstonians enjoy any excuse to dress up and celebrate the Southern side of our city’s cultural gumbo, the popularity of these parties seems to increase every year.

    This roundup includes both all-out, adults-only affairs and a couple of family-friendly options. With the mint juleps flowing and parking tight at most of these places, we strongly encourage catching a ride instead of driving.

    Read on for our picks for Houston’s best Derby Day celebrations.

    Brasserie 19
    The River Oaks restaurant’s annual Derby Day party is a see-and-be-seen affair that’s known for its fiercely-contested best hat competition, as well as its brunch atmosphere and free-flowing mint juleps. 11 am.

    Chapman & Kirby
    The EaDo venue’s 10th annual Talk Derby To Me party is a brunch-based affair that begins at 2 pm. Attendees are encouraged to dress in their Derby finest, including statement hats, bold floral looks, and polished menswear. 2 pm (Free admission until 4 pm with RSVP).

    Credence
    For the second year in a row, chef and restaurateur Levi Goode is hosting his lavish “Hats & Horses” Derby party with an array of small bites, Maker’s Mart cocktails, a raw bar with oysters, and the race on a giant screen. Attendees can win prizes for best hat, best dressed, and more. Tickets start at $100 for general admission, with enhanced options such as VIP tickets ($250) and reserved tables also available. A portion of proceeds will benefit Dress for Success Houston. 4 pm.

    Guard & Grace
    The downtown steakhouse’s Run for the Rosé Derby Party will feature tastings of rosé, white, orange, and sparkling wines from more than 15 vendors, paired with bites from the restaurant and a live viewing of the Kentucky Derby. Proceeds from a raffle will benefit Women of Wine Charities. 4 pm.

    Heights Bier Garten
    Winner of Bar of the Year in the 2021 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards, the bar’s 10th annual "Run for the Roses" party will feature best hat and best dressed prizes, along with Southern-inspired drink specials, giveaways, a photo booth, a DJ, and more. Reservations are encouraged. 11 am.

    Julep
    Alba Huerta’s James Beard Award-winning cocktail bar goes all out for Derby Day with a tented outdoor celebration that includes three cocktails bar. In addition, CultureMap Tastemaker Awards Best New Restaurant winner Aiko and cult-favorite Mexican restaurant Karanchos will serve bites, photo-worthy floral displays will abound, and Clutch City Band will perform. Festive Derby attire is strongly encouraged. 1 pm.

    King Steak
    The Uptown restaurant’s Derby party will feature a festive atmosphere, complete with prizes for “Best Dressed” and “Boldest Hat.” Sip on $10 mint juleps and champagne specials with nibbling on complimentary passed hors d’oeuvres. 3 pm.

    Long Weekend
    The recently-opened family friendly restaurant will celebrate its first Derby Day with a special menu of race-inspired bites, a special drink menu, and a $100 gift card for the winner of the best hat contest.

    Permission Whiskey & Service Co.
    Kentucky native and Permission owner Peter Nolan always goes all out for Derby Day with a bluegrass band, trumpet performance, ice sculptures, and a live horse. The winner of the best dressed contest will win a custom gift. Tickets, $25, are available via the link above. 1 pm.

    The Union Kitchen - Kingwood
    The popular neighborhood restaurant will celebrate Derby Day with themed cocktails made with Old Forester and Woodford Reserve bourbons, starters such as horseradish deviled eggs and smoked pimento cheese crostini, and entrees such as a Kentucky hot brown sandwich, grilled short ribs, and honey-bourbon grilled chicken. In addition, mini ponies will be available for photo ops and one person will win a best dressed competition. Reservations are encouraged. 12 pm.

    William Price Distilling
    Located in Garden Oaks, the event will include traditional cocktails such as the mint julep and Old Fashioned, along with the race on a big screen, giveaways, and a prize for best hat. Free to attend, but RSVP is required. 2 pm.

    Permission Whiskey Kentucky Derby party

    Courtesy of Permission Whiskey & Service Co.

    Permission Whiskey goes all out with a bluegrass band and a live horse.

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