Buzzed Over Steakhouse Dead

Steakhouse from Houston meat masters fizzles: Chef plans New Orleans-style cafe instead

Looks like another vaporware restaurant has gone up in smoke. With a series of tweets Thursday night, Hubcap Grill owner Ricky Craig put the final nail in the coffin of CK's Steakhouse, his planned joint venture with Ronnie Killen.

Brain storming a name for my new concept to open on 19th st next to Hubcap. Just me, myself, and I. Eatery/patio-lounge coming soon

— Ricky Craig (@Hubcap_Grill) June 27, 2014

My new concept on 19th st will be old world style / New Orleans style. Just simple honest good food and craft beer & wine. Garden patio

— Ricky Craig (@Hubcap_Grill) June 27, 2014

Reached for comment, Craig tells CultureMap that "I've waited patiently for a year . . . the last time I talked to (Killen), he said if I couldn't wait he understood. I can't go on 'a chance.'"

"News to me," Killen responded via text when asked for comment. "He's opening a new place in Kemah. Oh well."

With Killen reportedly working with Reef chef/owner Bryan Caswell on a venture known as the Montrose Meat Market that would feature Killen's barbecue, Craig says he's decided to move forward with a lease and option to purchase the CK's property, which is next to his Hubcap location on 19th Street. He adds that Hubcap is debt-free, which gives him the freedom to pursue the project now. "It's all my money," he says.

The concept would have brought together two of Houston's foremost meat masters, but permitting issues and other delays pushed back CK's. In the meantime, Killen opened a barbecue joint that's been one of 2014's hottest newcomers, and Craig is set to open Hubcap's third location in Kemah as soon as next week.

Craig declined to reveal too many of his plans for the new concept, although he did tweet that he's considering New Orleans-style cocktails, a patio and sandwiches like muffulettas and po-boys. Asked about whether he plans to bring back his celebrated pasta sauce from his parents' former restaurant Craiganale's Italian Deli Cafe, he responds affirmatively. "The pasta sauce and meatballs are already on the menu, (along with) oxtails and pork neck bones. But that's on the weekly dinner specials."

Craig has a space, a menu and the money to make it happen. Whatever it's called, sounds like this new restaurant is definitely happening.

Ricky Craig tweeted Thursday night that he's moving forward with a new concept for the lot that was to become CK's Steakhouse.

Ricky Craig, Hubcap Grill, hamburger, burger

Photo by © Chuck Cook Flickr

Ricky Craig tweeted Thursday night that he's moving forward with a new concept for the lot that was to become CK's Steakhouse.

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firing up Montrose

New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

Photo by Becca Wright

Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

“My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

“Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

“It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

“We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

Photo by Becca Wright

Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.