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    Foodie News

    Bring on the heat! Curry Crawl featured spice like you've never seen it before

    Sarah Rufca
    Jun 26, 2012 | 4:00 pm
    • Foie gras and curry cotton candy from Uchi
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Curry Crawl winner Shiva Patel from Queen Vic Pub & Kitchen
      Photo by Karen Burd
    • Deconstructed paneer from Roots Bistro
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Chefs from Kiran's work on the Straits patio.
      Photo by Karen Burd
    • Kerala shrimp from Pondicheri
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • David Guerrero mixes his pisco sour
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Queen Vic's chickpea-covered curried crab ball
      Photo by Sarah Rufca

    Spicy foods make you cooler! It's a refrain I must have heard and repeated a dozen times at the first-annual Curry Crawl on Sunday. And while research has confirmed the counter-intuitive cooling powers of hot peppers, the crowds on the patio at Straits were just as likely to use chilled cocktails and air conditioning breaks to fight the summer heat.

    The 10 restaurants competing for curry glory were split between South Asian specialists like Pondicheri, Blu and Korma Sutra, and other top restaurants including Uchi, Roots Bistro and Samba Grille. As part of a judging panel that included Greg Morago of the Houston Chronicle, Houston Press food critic Katharine Shilcutt and TV Asia correspondent Ruchi Mukerjee, I was semi-sequestered indoors (in the sweet, sweet air conditioning) while the chefs took turns presenting and describing their curry dishes to us.

    The range of offerings went from traditional fare to molecular gastronomy and from the idea of one or two perfect bites to three-course menus and drink pairings. But as anyone who's ever made it knows, there's no such thing as a simple curry.

    For me, an early favorite was Pondicheri. Executive chef Mary Cuclis was the first to bring some real heat, serving a dry kerala-spiced prawn over coconut cilantro rice and a saffron yogurt broth that was both refreshing and kicking, with a hint of ginger. Simran Patel of Korma Sutra impressed with a tamarind-glazed duck over a brightly flavored ginger curry sauce and I liked the lighter watermelon curry over tandoori halibut by Kiran Verma of Kiran's.

    On the other end of the spectrum was a quartet of unexpected offerings from Uchi, each of which featured a different curry. I was in raptures over the whimsical foie gras and curry cotton candy, light and airy with just a touch of rich sweetness. A Thai green curry dish with mussels and green tomatoes (you might recognize it from this video) had an intense, minty freshness, while some peanut butter-y red curry cookies packed a punch.

    In the end, two restaurants sailed above and beyond the competition. Shiva Patel of Queen Vic Pub & Kitchen said she wanted to create the ultimate bite, presenting a duo of crab balls in chickpea flour over a four-alarm, Goan-style curry topped with raita and bits of sesame and fried curry leaves. To balance the heat, she also served a sweet cocktail of vodka, honey and thyme with an orange garnish for a kick of citrus — delightful.

    Samba Grille's David Guerrero took a different tack with equally inspired results. Guerrero opened with grilled octopus in a curry-chimichurri sauce and created curried pisco sours tableside, but it was his curry ice cream with marmalade, rocoto and a richly tart Peruvian fruit (that I did not write down the name of).

    When the judges panel came up with a numeric tie between the two, we gave the edge to Queen Vic, whose curry was simply unforgettable. For the first time, the judges and the crowd were in perfect agreement, awarding Shiva Patel the people's choice award as well.

    "Are you tired of curry yet?" one guest asked us. But how could anyone get tired of something so versatile and flavorful? Keep the curry coming.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

    italian cuisinewinefredericksburghill countryopeningsnews-you-can-eat
    news/restaurants-bars
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