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    dealing with dobbs

    Houston's restaurant community speaks out following controversial Roe v. Wade decision

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 24, 2022 | 1:59 pm
    I'll Have What She's Having women banner
    Local non-profit I'll Have What She's Having raises money for women's healthcare.
    Photo courtesy of I'll Have What She's Having

    Women and men in the Houston restaurant industry are speaking out against the Supreme Court’s decision to overturn Roe v. Wade, the historic decision which provided women with the right to an abortion. Feelings of anger and sadness are common in the wake of the 6-to-3 ruling, handed down on Friday, June 24.

    “It’s a sickening feeling to think that I don’t have control over my own body in this state where I grew up,” Mary Ellen Angel, owner of downtown charity bar Angel Share, tells CultureMap. “Can I even live here anymore? It’s jarring to think these people I’ve never met have so much control over my uterus.”

    Feges BBQ co-owner Erin Smith expressed a similar sentiment. “It’s a giant punch to the gut. The wind has been taken out of me,” she says.

    “It makes me scared for what the future of this country holds, to be honest,” Mary Clarkson, owner of Avondale Food & Wine and a regular guest on CultureMap’s What’s Eric Eating podcast says. “A lot of women in our industry don’t have affordable access to healthcare. I’m at a loss for words when I think about this decision.”

    The biggest concern for many is the loss of bodily autonomy reflected in the ruling. “This is not pro-life,” Sasha Grumman, a contestant on Top Chef Season 18 and the owner of Sasha’s Focaccia says. “This is protecting life at the expense of another life. A zygote is more important than my 34-year old, living, breathing body.”

    Men are speaking out, too.

    “I’m furious because the Supreme Court decision has effectively made women second-class citizens in our state,” Brasil chef AJ Ede says. “I’m speaking out against the overturning of Roe v. Wade not just because I have a wife and sisters. I’m speaking out because all women should have agency over their own bodies and reproductive health.

    “I’m speaking out because women and their children will be forced to stay in abusive relationships and dangerous environments if they cannot access abortions. Most importantly, I’m speaking out because abortions will not stop, they will just go underground, and women will die without access to professional, regulated care.”

    Even though the day has been difficult, people are already starting to think about the future. For some, that means trying to persuade opponents to rethink their views on abortion. For others, it means raising money or going to the ballot box.

    Smith notes that many people she speaks to don’t realize the realities of abortion. She cites a range of statistics that include declining rates, a high percentage of procedures performed for women who already have at least one child, and that as many as 11 percent are for women aged 35-39. “I’m not going to question someone’s beliefs, but I want people to understand exactly what they’re talking about — informed beliefs based on facts,” she says.

    Angel’s downtown bar donates a portion of its profits to a different charity every month. She chooses up to four candidates, and a winner is selected by the bar’s patrons. As a first step in her response, both the ACLU and Planned Parenthood will be among the potential recipients in July.

    Benjy Mason, owner of Heights cocktail bar Johnny’s Gold Brick and a partner in Midtown bar Winnie’s, remains resolved to continue the fight. “At this point, all we can do is regroup and do what we have been doing all along — continue to fight for the rights of all Americans to live their lives free of government oppression.”

    In a similar spirit, Grumman calls on those who are upset by the decision to get more active in politics. “I think more than ever we have to stand up and fight this,” she says. “We need people to show up in November. We need to vote these motherf*****s out.”

    politics
    news/restaurants-bars

    NY Times names pioneering Houston restaurant to 'greatest Mexican' list

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 14, 2026 | 9:00 am
    News, Hugo's, interior
    Photo by Julie Soefer Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau
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    The New York Times included four Texas restaurants on its list of “41 of the Greatest Mexican Restaurants Across the United States.” Published Thursday, August 13, the Texas restaurants on the list are:

    • Burnt Bean Co., a barbecue restaurant in Seguin
    • Garcia’s Mexican Food, a Tex-Mex diner in San Antonio
    • Hugo’s, an interior Mexican restaurant in Houston
    • Nixta Taqueria, a creative taco concept in Austin

    Mostly written by James Beard Award-winning food writers Brett Anderson and Bill Esparza, the duo “visited dozens of Mexicans restaurants across the country over the course of a year” to compile the list, the Times explains.

    “This list is not an attempt to rank the best Mexican restaurants,” the duo write. “It is, rather, a mosaic of great places to eat, from food trucks to corner restaurants to tasting-menu counters. We hope it tells an expansive story about Mexican cooking in America today — a dynamic cuisine all its own, and as American as any food.”

    As Texas Monthly’s No. 1 ranked barbecue joint, Burnt Bean Co. is already well known for its smoked meats, but the Times also hails its Mexican cuisine, which includes its signature Sunday morning menu with menudo, barbacoa tacos, and brisket huevos rancheros.

    “You could call it Tex-Mex barbecue, but it’s just how barbecue is eaten in a state whose Mexican border is more than 1,200 miles long,” Anderson writes

    Founded in 1962, Anderson hails Garcia’s for its consistency, affordability, and pioneering combination of smoked brisket tacos. “Garcia’s is what an idealized American diner looks like in this part of the country: housemade salsas, tortillas instead of toast and plates of nourishing food at prices that explain why some customers visit multiple times a day,” he writes.

    The article credits Hugo’s for introducing the city’s diners to a deeper understanding of the breadth of Mexican cuisine. “Aged into a fine-dining lion in the cradle of Tex-Mex, Hugo’s still features longtime staples like banana leaf-wrapped cabrito, grilled octopus and sautéed chapulines, not to mention mezcals and Mexican wine,” Anderson writes.

    “I’m so glad I took a risk taking that train to Houston and, eventually, opening Hugo’s,” Ortega said in response to CultureMap’s request for comment about being included on the list. “I had no idea how it would turn out, I just knew was it was the food that I grew up eating and it was different than what I was seeing in Houston at the time. It was – and is – the food of my heart, my family, my ancestors. The foundation of Mexican cuisine is making everything from scratch which is what we continue to do every day at Hugo’s, and at our other concepts, too. I am humbled and thankful.”

    Operated by Edgar Rico and Sara Mardanbigi, Nixta has drawn lines of Austinites eager for its creative spin on tacos, which includes Asian ingredients such as fish sauce and furikake, as well as a dessert that nods to Mardanbigi’s Persian heritage.

    “The reservations-only tasting menu, served Thursday through Saturday, further showcases the couple’s stunning creativity and ambition,” writer Priya Krishna notes. “But most of the time Nixta remains what it always has been: a counter taquería of the utmost excellence.”

    Of course, knowing that the list isn’t a ranking makes it easier to understand the decision to pick Hugo’s as Houston’s representative — both for its historical significance and continued excellence. If Anderson and Esparza had decided to seek out a newer option, they could have considered restaurants such as, Michelin-starred Mexican tasting menu concept Tatemó; Modern Mexican-American restaurant Belly of the Beast, which is led by James Beard Award-winning chef Thomas Bille; Maximo, which is led by James Beard Award-winning chef Adrian Torres; or Casaema, the breakfast and lunch concept that earned a spot on the Times’ list of its favorite dishes of 2024.

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