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    Top Restaurant Fights Rumors

    Critic beloved Galleria restaurant fights off closing rumors: Chef proud, but he'd like to be busier

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 23, 2014 | 2:42 pm

    Another week. Another set of rumors that a restaurant is in trouble.

    Unlike the buzz about Trenza (which was refuted by the chef to CultureMap), this week's name may surprise Houstonians who've read a series of positive reviews about it, including its selection by both CultureMap and Texas Monthly as one of 2013's best new restaurants.

    Despite the positive press is Osteria Mazzantini about to close?

    "Not at this time," chef/owner John Sheely tells CultureMap, although he acknowledges that closing rumors are swirling.

    "Of course, we're not as busy as we hoped we'd be. I'm happy with what we've done so far. Our staff's been wonderful."

    "I'm not looking for anybody" to take over the space, Sheely adds, although he says he has been approached by people who see the restaurant's monthly TABC numbers and think they could do better. In the newly released TABC mixed beverage gross tax receipts report for May, Osteria Mazzantini reported approximately a third of the sales as neighboring restaurant Caracol ($6,041 in taxes paid versus $19,235).

    Even though Caracol is roughly twice Mazzantini's size, that discrepancy has attracted suitors eager to take advantage of the restaurant's prime Galleria location.

    "Of course, we're not as busy as we hoped we'd be," Sheely admits. "I'm happy with what we've done so far. Our staff's been wonderful."

    Asked about whether he's had conversations with either The Union Kitchen or Ruggles Green, Sheely says those names "may a ring a bell" but he elects to decline to comment on either one specifically.

    Sheely says he's also heard the rumor that he's ill and will be closing the restaurant. "My health is fine," he says.

    As for the future of Osteria Mazzantini, everything is status quo for now.

    "We're still there every day," Sheely says. "We're doing our best."

    John Sheely is standing up for his new restaurant Osteria Mazzantini.

    Osteria Mazzantini with John Sheely standing in front of mural
    Photo by Paula Murphy
    John Sheely is standing up for his new restaurant Osteria Mazzantini.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Chris Cusack explains

    Houston bar owner speaks out about surprise arrest for health code violations

    Eric Sandler
    May 11, 2026 | 3:50 pm
    Chris Cusack
    Photo by Sergio Trevino
    Chris Cusack owns two locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse.

    Certainly one of the most unusual interactions between a restaurant and City of Houston officials took place on Wednesday, May 6 when Betelgeuse Betelgeuse owner Chris Cusack was arrested for health code violations at his location on Washington Avenue.

    News of the arrest spread quickly across social media over the weekend. Now, Cusack is ready to tell his side of the story.

    Cusack, whose time operating restaurants in Houston goes back more than 15 years to Down House and its affiliated restaurants such as Hunky Dory and D&T Drive Inn, tells CultureMap the problem began on Monday, May 4 when a health department inspector came to Betelgeuse Betelgeuse and asked to see the restaurant’s grease trap.

    The only problem is that location has never had a grease trap. Prior to becoming Betelgeuse Betelgeuse, it was Liberty Station, a pioneering bar in Houston’s craft beer and craft cocktail scenes. In the early days, Betelgeuse served food from a food truck. More recently, it prepares its food next door at The Bell and Crane. Cusack acknowledges he didn’t share this information with the inspector.

    “Usually I’m a charmer with the health department, but I was a little defensive. She kept asking me. I said, ‘ma’am, we don’t make food here,’” he explains. “The tone wasn’t my finest moment, but there was no name calling or anything like that. She said, ‘where does the food come from?’ I said, ‘it doesn’t matter where it comes from. It’s produced in a commercial kitchen.’”

    Cusack says he knew there would be a follow up, but he was shocked when the inspector returned two days later with more colleagues from the health department, TABC inspectors, and Houston Police Department officers.

    “I got somewhere between 21 and 25 citations,” Cusack says about the return visit. He got dinged for everything from graffiti in the bathroom to a missing Harris County tax stamp on the photo booth he leases from a vendor (it has both State of Texas and City of Houston stamps, Cusack says).

    One inspector told Cusack he needed a food dealer’s permit. He showed the inspector that a food dealer’s permit had been issued for the restaurant's address under the former food truck’s LLC but not to the LLC that operates Betelgeuse Betelgeuse. Cusack says he had renewed the food truck’s permit in March, but that wasn’t good enough for the inspector. In Cusack’s telling, he was arrested for not having the permit, since it was also flagged as missing in an inspection from October 2025. He's the only person he knows who has ever been arrested for a misdemeanor violation of the health code.

    Cusack says he spent 21 hours in the Harris County Jail. When he got out, he says he was contacted by a more senior official within the Health Department. Once Cusack confirmed he owned both LLCs, he was told he could reopen. Both locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse have been operating normally since Friday, May 8.

    Cusack maintains he never knew about the October 2025 inspection, which is why he renewed the food dealer’s permit for the food truck’s LLC rather than applying for one under Betelgeuse Betelgeuse’s LLC. “There’s no paper trail that shows I was given this information,” he says. “I did not get the email [from the Health Department].”

    As for why things got so out of hand, Cusack theorizes he was a victim of Houston Mayor John Whitemire’s crack down on “reckless behavior” on Washington Avenue and stepped up enforcement on bars generally that led to the temporary closure of near northside cocktail bar Rabbit’s Got the Gun.

    Cusack says he’s a “huge supporter” of efforts to reduce crimes like street racing, drug dealing, and sex trafficking along Washington and in its surrounding neighborhoods. Still, he feels targeting by the city for being impolite to a health inspector.

    He plans to fight both the arrest and the citations in court. “I want the charges dropped, and I want it expunged completely from my record. That’s the first thing, and I’m going to try very hard to do it,” he says.

    “That’s going to end up costing thousands of dollars just to deal with the sheer volume,” he adds.

    CultureMap contacted Mayor Whitmire’s office. A representative said the mayor was not aware of the situation and has no comment on an open investigation.

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