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    mamma mia

    Guy Fieri-favorite Houston chef opens fine new Italian restaurant in River Oaks

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 21, 2022 | 9:45 am
    Roberto Crescini Fresco Café Italiano Guy Fieri Diners Drives In Dives
    Davanti chef Roberto Crescini with Guy Fieri.
    Courtesy of Food Network

    Two veterans of the Houston food scene have teamed up to open a new Italian restaurant that will be opening for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Chef Roberto Crescini and Francisco “Paco” Calza will open Davanti Ristorante Italiano on July 6.

    Located near Central Market at 2900 Weslayan St., Davanti will serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner with a menu built around Crescini's freshly made pastas that diners can combine with different sauces and proteins. Other menu items will include pizzas and Italian desserts like tiramisu. Italian wines and craft beers from both Europe and America will anchor the beverage program.

    “We will work to have a warm, courteous, and efficient service,” Calza said in a statement. “While at the same time offer the best beer and wine pairings for Roberto’s cuisine”

    The closure earlier this year of Fresco Café Italiano, chef Crescini's former restaurant, provided the opportunity for the two men to work together. In a release, the duo explain that they share a passion for high quality European ingredients. Calza, who will remain in his role at BCN while contributing to Davanti, adds that chef Crescini makes the best pasta he's ever eaten.

    Crescini first made his mark locally as the opening chef for Bellaire favorite Enoteca Rossa. At Fresco Café Italiano, he earned devoted fans for his fresh pastas. The chef appeared alongside Food Network star Guy Fieri on a 2021 episode of Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.

    Calza has a similarly sparkling resume. After working as the general manager of Cafe Annie for many years, he joined chef Luis Roger to open Spanish fine dining restaurant BCN in 2014. As BCN's general manager, he played a key role in helping BCN establish its reputation as one of Houston's best restaurants with top flight service that matched the quality of its food.

    openingsnews-you-can-eat
    news/restaurants-bars

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    Chris Shepherd gives thanks for underrated wine and talented Houston doctors

    Chris Shepherd
    Jan 2, 2026 | 1:00 pm
    Sandlands wine bottles
    Photo by Chris Shepherd
    Chris has been enjoying wines from California's Lodi region.

    I know my articles have been a bit scarce these past few months, and I owe you an apology. Life shifted in a big way. In September, my wife Lindsey was diagnosed with breast cancer, and our world narrowed, in the best possible way — to home, health, and the fight in front of us.

    The first and most important thing I’m thankful for is early detection and the city we live in. Having MD Anderson here in Houston is a gift I’ll never take lightly. Lindsey is doing great with treatment. She’s an absolute warrior, and this experience has a way of reframing everything. It forces you to look back, take inventory, and find purpose in both the good and the hard. Today, we’re focusing on the good.

    I love documenting delicious bottles, great bites, and the people we share them with. Every year, I scroll back through my photos to see if my drinking patterns have changed. The answer? A little, but not dramatically. That’s part of what makes wine so fascinating — it’s alive, always evolving, and so are we.

    Chablis and Sangiovese were heavy hitters in 2024 and carried right into 2025. But on the white side, I found myself diving deeper into Aligoté, Burgundy’s other white grape. While Chardonnay is the big dog, Aligoté deserves your attention. Think green apple, citrus, herbal, and floral notes, with bright energy and lift. The real bonus? You can drink Aligoté from top Burgundy producers at a much friendlier price point. It punches well above its weight and belongs on your table.

    I’ve also been blown away by Chardonnay from northern Oregon. Early mistakes with clones led to wines that never quite found balance, but producers committed to getting it right with different clones that did much better in cooler sites, with less oak and shorter barrel time. Barrels should be nurturing vessels, not seasoning agents. Producers like North Valley, Soter, and Alexana are making some of the best Chardonnay I’ve had in years, and I am here for it.

    This past year also brought new adventures, including a month-long stay in Healdsburg, California in July. With a Southern Smoke event and another trip already planned, we packed up the cats, rented a house, and lived somewhere else for a while. It was magical and something I hope we do again.

    While out there, my friend Tegan Passalacqua (Turley Vineyards, Sandlands) invited me to Lodi to taste what’s happening in that region. Lodi has long been known for bulk wine, but the story runs much deeper. Sitting just outside the Sierra Foothills, the region was shaped by massive geological shifts millions of years ago that helped it draw settlers searching for gold in the 1800s. They brought vines with them: Zinfandel, Syrah, and countless lesser-known varieties that are finally getting their moment.

    Zinfandel, genetically linked to Tribidrag (Croatia) and Primitivo (Italy), has been thriving there since the 1850s. After its boom in the early 2000s and an era of ultra-ripe, high-alcohol styles it lost some favor. But tastes change. What’s coming from Lodi’s old vines today is refined, balanced, and beautiful.

    “Think head-trained, dry-farmed, own-rooted vines — some 100 to 150 years old — producing wines that speak clearly of place,” Passalacqua tells me. His Zins sit around 14.5-percent alcohol, elegant and structured, a far cry from the 16-17-percent monsters of decades past.

    One of my newest obsessions is Old Vine Cinsault from the Bechthold Vineyard, planted in 1885. Traditionally a blending grape in southern France, here it shines on its own with bright red fruit and soft tannins — an incredibly crushable wine. If you love lighter Pinot Noir or Gamay, this will make you smile. Look for bottles from Sandlands, Turley, Lorenza, Birichino, and others.

    So here’s the takeaway, like always: break down the walls you’ve been drinking behind. Try something new. Aligoté and Lodi aren’t new but they don’t need to be. They just need people willing to make them cool again. Trust me, they’re delicious and deserving.

    And in the words of the late, great Jerry Garcia:

    Sandlands wine bottles

    Photo by Chris Shepherd

    Chris has been enjoying wines from California's Lodi region.

    Wake up to find out that you are the eyes of the world
    The heart has its beaches, its homeland and thoughts of its own
    Wake now, discover that you are the song that the morning brings
    The heart has its seasons, its evenings and songs of its own

    Happy New Year, team. Never forget to be kind and show love.

    chris shepherdwine
    news/restaurants-bars

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