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    Beyond the Beltway

    Finger lickin' good: Houston's ethnic fried chicken gives new meaning to theSouthern classic

    Ruthie Miller
    Jun 28, 2012 | 10:30 am
    • Banana Leaf's fried chicken is dry rubbed with a Malaysian spice blend beforefrying.
      Photo by Ruthie Miller Johnson
    • Mala Sichuan makes fried chicken into bite-sized, juicy bits of joy.
      Photo by Ruthie Johnson Miller
    • You'll find the city's best Korean fried chicken at ToreOre inside the Super HMart. Seek it out.
      Photo by Ruthie Johnson Miller

    What is it that makes fried chicken taste best in summer? The Sticky Months bring a hellfire that reigns over us like a dictator spurned — yet somehow a plate of hot-hot-hot fried chicken fits right into the forecast. There’s just something ritualistic about burning your hands on a searing drumstick, biting into it and letting the juices run down your chin, and then coming away with glistening fingers — all in the name of crisp greatness.

    “Fried chicken” here often refers to the Southern classic, and we’ve got plenty of great ones in town at places like the Barbecue Inn, Frenchy’s, Max’s Wine Dive, and Bistro Zelko. Other restaurants — Haven, Beaver’s, and Revival Market among them — offer it as an occasional summer special.

    There’s just something ritualistic about burning your hands on a searing drumstick, biting into it and letting the juices run down your chin, and then coming away with glistening fingers — all in the name of crisp greatness.

    But in Houston’s cultural Cuisinart of a culinary landscape, we’ve got a veritable jackpot of ethnic variations, too. Sample your way through them to note the delicious cultural variations. Here are a few favorites.

    Toreore (Korean)

    Just inside the front door of the Super H Mart on Blalock is ToreOre, a fantastic Korean fast-food chain that serves fried chicken and fried chicken only. Like most Asian versions, the chicken is seasoned after frying; thus, while the regular version is decent, the flavored versions (like the hot-sweet-spicy chicken or garlic chicken) are your best bet for a karate chomp. Every order at ToreOre comes with a side of pickled radishes, adding a lovely vinegary crunch to your meal.

    Mala Sichuan (Szechuan)

    Fried chicken is a festive dish in in the Szechuan cuisine of southwestern China, traditionally served at weddings, banquets, and family celebrations. It’s typically a peppercorn-laden dish that’s explosive, alluring, and addictive. The chicken is chopped into bite-sized pieces, then wok-fried at super-high temps. The skin becomes quickly crunchalicious, while the ulterior meat remains relatively soft. The version at Mala Sichuan is delicious and fiery, albeit a bit too salty for me.

    Pollo Campero (Guatemalan)

    While fried chicken in China is a celebratory dish, in the Americas it sits squarely in the comfort zone. Pollo Campero is a Guatemalan chain that revolves around a cozy old family recipe for fried chicken. Unlike most versions — where much of the flavor is in the breading — Pollo Campero’s chicken first marinates in a citrus bath, and then gets a Latin spice blend, to ensure that the wow factor goes from skin to bone. The breading is thinner than our southern staple, yet crispy, crunchy, and undeniably caliente.

    Banana Leaf (Malaysian)

    Malaysia, which borrows some culinary traditions from other Asian cultures, offers a distinct version of fried chicken. The chicken is usually rubbed with a dry mix of ginger, lemongrass, garlic, and curry powder before wok-frying. Banana Leaf’s version has an incredible, intense flavor on the mostly dark meat pieces, but was lacking in moisture. The surrounding onions, peppers, and mangos added a nice sweetness to match the heat found in the sauce.

    These fried chickens are decadent, distinct, and delicious. Who’s up for a fried chicken crawl?

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    What's Eric Eating Episodes 516 and 517

    Food experts draft the best dishes at Vietnamese restaurants in Houston

    CultureMap Staff
    Dec 12, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Moon Rabbit food spread
    Moon Rabbit/Facebook
    Two panelists selected dishes from Moon Rabbit in the Heights.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” CultureMap editor Eric Sandler recruited five of his friends and colleagues to select their favorite dishes at Vietnamese restaurants in Houston via a fantasy football-style draft.



    The panelists — Stevie Vu of the Chowdown in Chinatown Facebook group and Asia Society, Texas; Chelsea Thomas of Local Foods Group; Heights Grocer and Montrose Grocer owner Mary Clarkson; Have A Nice Day AAPI pop-up market co-founder Isabel Protomartir; Houston BBQ Festival co-founder Michael Fulmer — joined Sandler to draft Vietnamese dishes and restaurants in six categories. They are:

    • Appetizer/Salad
    • Entree
    • Sandwich
    • Soup
    • Viet-Cajun
    • Wildcard

    In the first round, Vu kicked things off by selecting the sandwiches from Chinatown institution Nguyen Ngo. Thomas followed with the duck salad at Thien An. Clarkson took the mango-papaya salad from Old Saigon Cafe, and Sandler scored the Beef 7 Ways at Chinatown favorite Saigon Pagolac. Protomartir took the Duck House’s crispy egg rolls, and Fulmer closed round one with the beef rolls at Nam Giao, which holds a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide.

    Sandler shared the full results on Instagram.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Eric Sandler (@ericsandler)


    As he noted, the draft results include some of Houston’s most prominent Vietnamese restaurant as well as a few under-the-radar choices that will give listeners some new options to try. Listen to the full episode on any podcast platform to hear the panelists explain the choices and recommend a few places that they could have drafted instead.



    In this week’s second episode, chef Christine Ha and her husband John Suh join Sandler to review the results and pick a winner. Since no one selected their restaurant The Blind Goat, each drafter is on an equal footing.

    Listen to the full episode to hear who won. Ha and Suh also share thoughts on their favorite selections by each panelist. They also catch us up on the latest happenings at both The Blind Goat and Stuffed Belly, their sandwich shop, including the recent addition of a gumbo pot pie to The Blind Goat’s menu.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by The Blind Goat (@theblindgoathtx)


    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

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