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    Foodie News

    Westheimer Row restaurant rises again: Fights back from name change, turmoil with new menu, late hours

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 16, 2014 | 2:17 pm

    La Fendee owner Saina Esfandiari wants everyone to know that the Middle Eastern restaurant on Westheimer Road is still standing — and more committed than ever to being successful.

    La Fendee's been through months of turmoil with restaurant insiders circulating word of an impending closure, a sudden name change that made it seem like it had closed and reopened as a different restaurant and more. But now La Fendee is La Fendee again — only with later hours and new menu items.

    "We never closed. We never had plans to close down," Esfandiari insists to CultureMap.

    New menu items, including souvlaki and baklava, have proven to be popular additions.

    The restaurant brought in a management company and briefly changed its name to Cafe Layal, but Esfandiari, an optometrist who divides her time between her practice and the restaurant, realized that wasn't the answer to revitalizing the restaurant. "I decided to handle it myself," she says.

    One of the first steps? Changing the name back to La Fendee.

    To draw in more people, La Fendee has also extended its hours to 3 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays and midnight during the week. New menu items, including souvlaki and baklava, have proven to be popular additions. Reasonable prices — a gyro sandwich with hummus is only $6.95 — further add to La Fendee's neighborhood appeal. Of course, regular customers still enjoy smoking one of the dozen or so varieties of flavored tobacco from a hookah on the shaded patio.

    Esfandiari says business is "coming back slowly" as word spreads among customers that the family is back in control. The restaurant has never advertised, but she wants people to know they're still around.

    La Fendee is surviving the Houston restaurant scene's turmoil — serving up the same, well-executed Middle Eastern classics that have kept it in the Esfandiari family since 2007.

    This gyro sandwich and hummus plate is $6.95.

    La fendee June 2014 gyro
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    This gyro sandwich and hummus plate is $6.95.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    What's Eric Eating Episode 584

    Beard Award-winning Latin chef dishes on big Houston move and menu overhaul

    CultureMap Staff
    Sep 11, 2026 | 4:32 pm
    Exilio Latin Flair Douglas Rodriguez
    Courtesy of Exilio Latin Flair
    James Beard Award winner Douglas Rodriguez is the executive chef of Exilio Latin Flair.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Douglas Rodriguez and Bari Hospitality Group co-owner Pedro Teyuca join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Exilio Latin Flair, the company’s pan-Latin restaurant in Montrose.



    Opened in April in the former Verde Garden space, Exilio recently recruited Rodriguez to serve as executive chef and revamp its menu. Known as the “Godfather of Nuevo Latino Cuisine,” the chef brings an impressive resume to his role, including winning Rising Star Chef in the 1996 James Beard Awards, competing on season one of Top Chef Masters, and earning a Recommended designation in the Michelin Guide for Nikos, a Greek restaurant in Durham, NC. As he explains in the episode, he and Bari co-owner Tommy Nally first developed the idea for Exilio when they worked together in Vegas, so he jumped at the opportunity to bring the restaurant to life.

    Rodriguez just rolled out a new menu for Exilio that includes a total revamp of the restaurant’s ceviches and entrees. Specific dishes include tuna watermelon ceviche, mixto seafood ceviche with leche de tigre, Colombian-style chicken empanadas, snapper Veracruz, and a smoked ribeye.

    “The sauce is made with panca peppers (Peruvian red pepper), watermelon juice, yuzu juice. Then it’s slices of tuna and slices of watermelon. I kind of single them,” Rodriguez says about the tuna watermelon ceviche. “The sauce has red onion, Thai basil, tarragon, a herb you don’t usually find in a ceviche. It’s very light, refreshing, herbaceous — hits a lot of different areas in the palate for a simple, two ingredient dish.”

    The chef adds that he’s been getting to know Houston through its restaurants. He cites Mala Sichuan and Hugo’s as two places that have impressed him. He also hails Love Croissants, whose owner, chef Omar Pereney, worked for Rodriguez prior to moving to Houston.

    “I have a long list of places to explore, and I’m excited that this is a big food city,” Rodriguez adds. “I haven’t been to Maximo yet. That’s at the top of my list. I’m excited to be here and get people into the restaurant to try the food.”

    For his part, Teyuca provides an update on Bari’s plans to open a second location in The Woodlands later in September. He also shares exciting news about the company’s plans to add a sushi bar to the lounge above Georgia James, the Montrose steakhouse it purchased from Underbelly Hospitality in 2024.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 8 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Exilio Latin Flair Douglas Rodriguez

    Courtesy of Exilio Latin Flair

    James Beard Award winner Douglas Rodriguez is the executive chef of Exilio Latin Flair.

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