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    Liquor saves history

    Preserve and pour: Historic buildings house some of Houston's hottest bars

    Marcy de Luna
    Jun 5, 2010 | 9:03 am
    • La Carafe is thought to be Houston's oldest bar
      Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau
    • Monarch Restaurant and Lounge in Hotel ZaZa
    • Leon's Lounge has changed owners but promises to stay familiar
    • Hearsay is housed in downtown's second-oldest building. The owners have a newproject in store this year in Midtown
      Photo by Julie Soefer
    • Gravitas at 801 Taft St. houses Antone's Po Boys for 50 years
    • The Warwick Hotel, now the Hotel ZaZa
      Photo by Story Sloane III

    At a loss for what to do with an old empty space? Don't waste it; throw a bar in it.

    Save a building, become part of the preservationist movement, help facilitate economic growth and create a cool place to hang out with your friends all at the same time. Several long-standing structures around town have been converted into watering holes.

    Originally established in 1847 as a bakery, La Carafe is thought to be the oldest bar and commercial building in Houston (which you may have known), but here are a few other notable hot spots whose history is worthy of recognizing.

    * The original home of the Junior League, the building now housing Brennan’s Restaurant and Courtyard Bar opened its doors in the 1920s. It was designed by famed architect John F. Staub and modeled after the Don Jose Faurie House in New Orleans, where the unaffiliated Brennan’s New Orleans now stands.

    The Junior League moved to a new building in the late 1960s, which is precisely when the Brennan family was looking for a location to open their business. Newly restored after a second-floor fire during Hurricane Ike in 2008, the Courtyard Bar at Brennan’s has been moved from beneath the stairs on the first floor to a slightly larger enclosed space in the courtyard area overlooking the back fountain. The majority of the patio space has stayed intact.

    * From the same company that brought us Hearsay Gastro Lounge (located in the second-oldest commercial building downtown, formerly the W.L. Foley Building, built in 1889), the White House in Midtown is scheduled to open later this year in a neoclassical mansion built in 1913 as a private residence. The new high-end venue will feature a champagne bar upstairs with a traditional bar and restaurant on the first floor.

    * Today you will find Scott Tycer's Gravitas Restaurant at 807 Taft, but for over half a century this building was home to Antone's Famous Po' Boys. The space was renovated in 2005 to include a long, minimalist SideBar Lounge that presents a diverse cocktail menu and an impressive selection of microbrews.

    * Formerly the historic Warwick Hotel, built in 1920, the Hotel ZaZa is perhaps one of Houston’s best examples of commercial preservation. The ZaZa is home to Monarch Restaurant and Lounge, with live entertainment and all-night happy hour every Thursday.

    * When Pete Mitchell took over ownership of Leon’s Lounge in Midtown, he decided to keep most of the place the same, with a few enhancements. The building dates back to 1947 and become Leon’s Lounge in 1949. While you will see a new tile top on the bar as well as some much-needed new furniture, the rest will look more or less familiar.

    Leon’s will play music off of old LP’s, recycle bottles and paper and offer up plenty of draft beer stored in recyclable kegs.

    Are you listening, Weingarten?

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    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

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