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    Food for Thought

    Central Market turns 10: Inside stories (spouse pickups, royal cheese & MarioBatali too) on H-Town's food changer

    Marene Gustin
    May 31, 2011 | 11:33 am
    • Happy 10th, Central Market!
      www.centralmarket.com
    • David Kiser of Central Market
      Photo by Steven Thomson
    • Cafe on the Run
      Photo by Francis Lum/Picasa
    • Great selection
    • Author’s Note: I buy the Thanksgiving sides there freakin’ every year and no onehas ever introduced me to a future spouse.
      Photo by Marene Gustin
    • I’ve had the fresh tortillas at Central Market. They are good. But I’ve neverfound a diamond ring in one.
      Photo by Michael Sweeney
    • H-Town's food changer

    Let’s play some foodie Jeopardy!

    I’ll take shopping for $200, Alex.

    A: Fresh gnocchi, Sacre Bleu Cabernet Sauvignon, chef-prepared almond crusted tilapia and a spouse.

    Q: What are things you can pick up at Central Market, Alex?

    Ding, ding, ding!

    Foodies know that Central Market, which celebrates turning 10 on Thursday, is a great place to shop for dinner. But apparently it’s also not a bad place to shop for a spouse.

    “One of my favorite memories from the past decade involves a friend of mine,” says Central Market’s David Kiser, head of the popular cooking school there. “She was standing in line at the Chef’s Case and struck up a conversation with an older woman who invited her to come to Thanksgiving dinner and meet her son. They’re married now with two children.”

    Author’s Note: I buy the Thanksgiving sides there freakin’ every year and no one has ever introduced me to a future spouse.

    And then general manager Phil Myers passes on this story from another employee: “One time we helped a guy coordinate his marriage proposal in the bakery. It was the first year we were open and he told me how excited they were about the store opening in Houston because he met his fiancé at the original store on North Lamar (in Austin). She loved the tortillas so much he wanted to put the ring in one and could we accommodate?

    "We did; it was great! Everyone was in on it but her. The girl said yes and we sent them to the café with balloons and a bottle of champagne.”

    I’ve had the fresh tortillas at Central Market. They are good. But I’ve never found a diamond ring in one.

    But besides these romantic moments, Central Market has seen a lot of other interesting and odd things.

    When the store opened in May of 2001 Houston wasn’t exactly a grocery wasteland. We did have Rice Epicurean Markets where you could spot blue bloods and blue hairs shopping, Fiesta Marts for Mexican specialties and the original Phoenicia Specialty Store if you were on the west side of town. But Whole Foods was just a twinkle in Houston’s eye so H-E-B’s Central Market was a draw for us inner Loopers.

    “I don’t think I’ve ever seen people so excited about a grocery store opening,” says Kiser, one of 44 “charter partners,” employees who’ve been there since the store opened. “There were people lined up waiting for the doors to open.”

    And they’ve also seen people stand in line for fajita samples as though they’d never had them. In Houston. The Art Guys have painted the floors and the largest cheddar cheese ever shown in Texas (at 12,500 pounds) was displayed. And just recently a 75-pound cheddar (puny) was carved here by Sarah Kaufmann to resemble the royal newlyweds Will and Kate. They take cheese seriously here.

    The store also does a lot for community nonprofits and for its neighbors in times of crisis.

    As Kiser tells it, the store opened to heavy crowds but then two days later Tropical Storm Allison rolled through, flooding huge sections of the city.

    “We were lucky,” he says. “We didn’t have any damage and didn’t have to close at all, so people came back here to shop.”

    The store was also one of the first to reopen and offer ice and water to customers after Hurricane Ike in 2008, even though they didn’t have electricity,

    And then there’s the cooking school Kiser presides over. Folks flock here for everything from classes in basic knife skills to demonstrations by hot local chefs and international names, like Francis Mallmann and Mario Batali.

    “That was one on my favorite experiences,” Kiser says. “I mean, Mario!”

    So what’s in store for the next decade?

    “We’ll just continue to educate people no matter where they are on their food journey,” Kiser says.

    So, wanna join in the celebration? Thursday from 6:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. Central Market offers a big tented event, 2001-2011 A Delectable Decade, Celebrating 10 years of Foodie Love.

    Ten of the city’s top chefs will be there to mingle and feed the masses. Texas wine makers and farmers, live music and more round out the event. Tickets are $100 and available online. Proceeds benefit Foodways Texas, an organization founded by scholars, chefs, journalists, restaurateurs, farmers, ranchers and other Texans who've made it their mission to preserve, promote and celebrate the diverse food cultures of Texas.

    So what are waiting for? It’s going to be a foodie paradise.

    And who knows? Maybe some lucky gal will find a diamond ring in her tortilla.

    unspecified
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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 523 and 524

    Acclaimed Austin duo dish on their wine-obsessed neighborhood restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Jan 16, 2026 | 1:08 pm
    Birdie's Arjav Ezekiel Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel
    Photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly
    Birdie's owners Arjav Ezekiel and chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel and beverage director Arjav Ezekiel join CultureMap Houston editor Eric Sandler to discuss their Austin restaurant Birdie’s.



    Widely considered one of Austin’s top restaurants, Birdie’s has earned local, regional, and national acclaim, including a place of the 2025 Time100 Next list, Food & Wine magazine’s 2023 Restaurant of the Year, and a 2025 James Beard Award for Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service to Ezekiel. In a 2024 column, James Beard Award winner Chris Shepherd recommended that Houstonians visit Birdie’s the next time they’re in Austin.

    Sandler’s conversation with the duo begins with a little bit about how they met while working together in New York and their decision to move to Austin. From there, it turns to Birdie’s counter service model that’s unusual for a restaurant of its quality. Sandler asks whether not offering traditional table service has lowered the restaurant’s profits.

    “It’s the opposite. Because we have a leaner labor force in the dining room, our margins are probably double what they would be if we were a traditional restaurant,” Ezekiel explains. “What we’re able to do is take a portion of that margin and invest it back into our team. We talk about ‘Conscious Capitalism’ a lot. That extra margin pays for paid family leave that we offer to everybody on our team, the month of paid and planned vacation every year, the subsidized health insurance, the subsidized mental therapy we offer. We needed to find more change under the cushions, so we could invest it back into our team.”

    Initially, Birdie’s opened with an a la carte menu. In 2025, it switched to a prix fixe format that offers diners six courses for $80. The switch means the restaurant serves fewer diners per night, which has shortened the wait to order from up to an hour to 20 minutes or less. Chef Malechek-Ezekiel explains that this change has also expanded the range of dishes she’s able to serve and broadened the techniques she uses to create them.

    “We can cook fish confit. We can use the Japanese robata grill to cook on charcoal. We can hot smoke fish to order. Now, I feel like, wow, look what we can do now. Before, we had the skills, but we couldn’t physically do it with how tiny our space is.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear more about how Birdie’s guides diners through its wine list, which of the monthly prix fixe menus has been the most successful, and the couple’s thoughts on potentially opening a new restaurant.



    In this week’s other episode, Craft Pita chef-owner Raffi Nasr joins Sandler to discuss some recent news in the world of Houston restaurants. Their topics include Tex-Mex restaurant Superica transforming into a casual steakhouse; the imminent opening of delivery-focused Shredders Pizza; and a change in operations at Weights + Measures.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Nasr and Sandler describe their recent meal at Oru, a new sushi restaurant in the Heights from the team behind Michelin-recognized omakase counter Neo and Upper Kirby hand roll concept Kira. Listen to hear their favorite dishes as well as Sandler’s quibbles with a couple of aspects of the experience.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Birdie's Arjav Ezekiel Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel

    Photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly

    Birdie's owners Arjav Ezekiel and chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel are this week's guests.

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