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    Food for Thought

    Central Market turns 10: Inside stories (spouse pickups, royal cheese & MarioBatali too) on H-Town's food changer

    Marene Gustin
    May 31, 2011 | 11:33 am
    • Happy 10th, Central Market!
      www.centralmarket.com
    • David Kiser of Central Market
      Photo by Steven Thomson
    • Cafe on the Run
      Photo by Francis Lum/Picasa
    • Great selection
    • Author’s Note: I buy the Thanksgiving sides there freakin’ every year and no onehas ever introduced me to a future spouse.
      Photo by Marene Gustin
    • I’ve had the fresh tortillas at Central Market. They are good. But I’ve neverfound a diamond ring in one.
      Photo by Michael Sweeney
    • H-Town's food changer

    Let’s play some foodie Jeopardy!

    I’ll take shopping for $200, Alex.

    A: Fresh gnocchi, Sacre Bleu Cabernet Sauvignon, chef-prepared almond crusted tilapia and a spouse.

    Q: What are things you can pick up at Central Market, Alex?

    Ding, ding, ding!

    Foodies know that Central Market, which celebrates turning 10 on Thursday, is a great place to shop for dinner. But apparently it’s also not a bad place to shop for a spouse.

    “One of my favorite memories from the past decade involves a friend of mine,” says Central Market’s David Kiser, head of the popular cooking school there. “She was standing in line at the Chef’s Case and struck up a conversation with an older woman who invited her to come to Thanksgiving dinner and meet her son. They’re married now with two children.”

    Author’s Note: I buy the Thanksgiving sides there freakin’ every year and no one has ever introduced me to a future spouse.

    And then general manager Phil Myers passes on this story from another employee: “One time we helped a guy coordinate his marriage proposal in the bakery. It was the first year we were open and he told me how excited they were about the store opening in Houston because he met his fiancé at the original store on North Lamar (in Austin). She loved the tortillas so much he wanted to put the ring in one and could we accommodate?

    "We did; it was great! Everyone was in on it but her. The girl said yes and we sent them to the café with balloons and a bottle of champagne.”

    I’ve had the fresh tortillas at Central Market. They are good. But I’ve never found a diamond ring in one.

    But besides these romantic moments, Central Market has seen a lot of other interesting and odd things.

    When the store opened in May of 2001 Houston wasn’t exactly a grocery wasteland. We did have Rice Epicurean Markets where you could spot blue bloods and blue hairs shopping, Fiesta Marts for Mexican specialties and the original Phoenicia Specialty Store if you were on the west side of town. But Whole Foods was just a twinkle in Houston’s eye so H-E-B’s Central Market was a draw for us inner Loopers.

    “I don’t think I’ve ever seen people so excited about a grocery store opening,” says Kiser, one of 44 “charter partners,” employees who’ve been there since the store opened. “There were people lined up waiting for the doors to open.”

    And they’ve also seen people stand in line for fajita samples as though they’d never had them. In Houston. The Art Guys have painted the floors and the largest cheddar cheese ever shown in Texas (at 12,500 pounds) was displayed. And just recently a 75-pound cheddar (puny) was carved here by Sarah Kaufmann to resemble the royal newlyweds Will and Kate. They take cheese seriously here.

    The store also does a lot for community nonprofits and for its neighbors in times of crisis.

    As Kiser tells it, the store opened to heavy crowds but then two days later Tropical Storm Allison rolled through, flooding huge sections of the city.

    “We were lucky,” he says. “We didn’t have any damage and didn’t have to close at all, so people came back here to shop.”

    The store was also one of the first to reopen and offer ice and water to customers after Hurricane Ike in 2008, even though they didn’t have electricity,

    And then there’s the cooking school Kiser presides over. Folks flock here for everything from classes in basic knife skills to demonstrations by hot local chefs and international names, like Francis Mallmann and Mario Batali.

    “That was one on my favorite experiences,” Kiser says. “I mean, Mario!”

    So what’s in store for the next decade?

    “We’ll just continue to educate people no matter where they are on their food journey,” Kiser says.

    So, wanna join in the celebration? Thursday from 6:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. Central Market offers a big tented event, 2001-2011 A Delectable Decade, Celebrating 10 years of Foodie Love.

    Ten of the city’s top chefs will be there to mingle and feed the masses. Texas wine makers and farmers, live music and more round out the event. Tickets are $100 and available online. Proceeds benefit Foodways Texas, an organization founded by scholars, chefs, journalists, restaurateurs, farmers, ranchers and other Texans who've made it their mission to preserve, promote and celebrate the diverse food cultures of Texas.

    So what are waiting for? It’s going to be a foodie paradise.

    And who knows? Maybe some lucky gal will find a diamond ring in her tortilla.

    unspecified
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    Anthony's song

    Prolific Houston pizza chef fires up a new Italian restaurant in River Oaks

    Eric Sandler
    May 8, 2026 | 3:30 pm
    Anthony's New York Italian interior
    Courtesy of Anthony's New York Italian
    Anthony's New York Italian is now open near Central Market.

    One of Houston’s most prolific pizzaiolos has quietly opened a new restaurant in River Oaks. Anthony Russo, founder of Russo’s New York Pizzeria, has opened Anthony’s New York Italian in the former Pie Tap Pizza space at 3748 Westheimer.

    While Russo is known primarily for his fast casual restaurants that sling New York-style pies, Anthony’s New York Italian is both more personal and more upscale. It takes inspiration from his Italian heritage — his father grew up in Naples and his mother grew up in Sicily — as well as Russo’s Italian Restaurant, the Galveston eatery his parents operated for almost 20 years.

    “We had veal, lobster, Gulf snapper, a lot of nice, classic dishes. There’s where I grew up in the kitchen,” Russo tells CultureMap. “I was always around fine dining restaurants. My mom and dad used to bring in chefs from Italy. They were excellent chefs. That’s what we had in Galveston for 18 years.”

    With Russo’s at more than 50 locations, the time felt right to open a more upscale concept. Partially inspired by New York restaurants such as Carbone and Quality Italian, Russo thinks Houstonians will appreciate his high-end take on Italian American fare.

    The menu includes lobster fra diavolo, a 24-ounce prime porterhouse, bone-in veal parmesan, frutti di mare (shellfish with tomato sauce over pappardelle), and more. In addition, the dish utilize Italian olive oil that’s pressed by one of the chef’s friends. Anthony’s also makes all of its doughs, sauces, and sausage in house.

    Of course, Russo is making pizza, too. They’re baked in imported Italian ovens using slightly different dough and sauce recipes — along with imported mozzarella and burrata — than his more casual restaurants.

    And, no, Russo isn’t concerned that a pizzeria lasted less than a year in the space.

    “I feel confident this location is going to be a killer for us. We make homemade pasta on site here, fresh from scratch.” he says. “We're bringing fresh lobster. We're bringing fresh clams. We got a nice veal chop. I mean, these are all chef-selected ingredients. I don't think anybody's doing that in town right now.”

    The restaurant is still in such early days that it doesn’t have its own website or social media pages yet. For now, diners can follow Russo on Instagram for updates.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Anthony Russo (@chef_anthony_russo_)


    Anthony's New York Italian is open for dinner Monday-Thursday beginning at 4 pm. It’s open for lunch and dinner on Friday and Saturday beginning at 11 am. Reservations are available on OpenTable.

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