What's Eric Eating Episode 96

Meet a legendary Texas pitmaster, plus a rockin' Montrose makeover

On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," Louie Mueller Barbecue owner-pitmaster Wayne Mueller joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss the restaurant that Sandler calls "his favorite Texas barbecue joint."

The conversation begins with Mueller recounting what it was like to grow up in the business working alongside his father, legendary pitmaster Bobby Mueller. Wayne explains that he didn't appreciate the restaurant's significance as a child, but recognition from the James Beard Foundation — and a plea from his father to help manage the business — prompted him to return to Taylor and become the third generation of the family to operate the establishment.

The conversation hits a number of topics, including Mueller's thoughts on the way that homogenization in barbecue cooking methods spurred innovation in sides and desserts. While that process has removed the charm of small-town barbecue joints that each cooked things a little differently, standardization has made it possible for Texas-style barbecue to be exported across the country and around the world. Mueller has a strong opinion on which market has the most potential.

California is one of those virgin sort of territories. You've got Trudy's in L.A;, Moo's Craft, they're making a niche. You've got Horn up in the Bay Area, but those are probably the most popular and well known and doing the best, I think. But you're talking about, what, 14, 15-million their pop-ups are trying to serve? That to me is mind boggling.

Environmental pressures and regulations really make it difficult in the West Coast, but that doesn't mean there aren't inroads that can't be made and that these things can't be done. It's just a matter of someone having the fortitude to make it happen. Because the first one that breaks through and gets the whole wood-fired, offset smoker in Los Angeles approved, they're going to explode. That's what Los Angeles is like. Anything that's popular, there's all the money you need out there to invest and make it grow quickly. They're holding out. They're going to fight for tri-tip, but I think it's going to succumb.

Prior to Mueller joining the show, Sandler and co-host Matt Harris discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: an in-depth discussion about the legacy of The Pass & Provisions now that it's closed; the news that Ben Berg will open a second location of B.B. Lemon in the former Pax Americana space; and Food & Wine naming Restaurant Indigo one of the country's best new restaurants.

In the restaurants of the week segment, they discuss their experiences at Squable, the new Heights restaurant from Better Luck Tomorrow partners Bobby Heugel and Justin Yu, and Rudyard's, where chef Anthony Calleo has rolled out a new menu.

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Wayne Mueller is this week's guest.

Louie Mueller Barbecue/Facebook

Wayne Mueller is this week's guest.

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All-day cafe with boutique hotel vibes coming to downtown Houston

Rendering courtesy of Rebees

Lila's is the newest restaurant to arrive at GreenStreet, the three-block downtown complex.

Downtown Houston is adding a new restaurant to its roster with Lila’s at GreenStreet. Slated to open this fall, Lila’s is envisioned as an all-day New American restaurant that starts the day with coffee and breakfast and ends with dinner and cocktails.

Located at 1201 Fannin Street, Lila's occupies a 5,100-square-foot space in the former lobby of the office tower, with its entrance tucked into an alleyway between McCormick & Schmick’s and The Palm. The restaurant aims to capture the experience of a boutique hotel, without the hassle of overnight guests.

“We’ve spent years thinking about how hospitality can fundamentally change the experience of a place,” Matt Ragan, chief hospitality officer for Rebees, said in a statement. “With Lila’s, we’re taking the level of service, attention to detail, and sense of welcome you expect from a great boutique hotel and applying it to an everyday restaurant. We want someone grabbing coffee before work, meeting a client for lunch or settling in for dinner and drinks to feel equally at home.”

Executive chef Garee Battad will lead the kitchen, drawing on his two decades of experience largely at hotel restaurants such as Nobu at Hotel Crescent Court and Charlie Palmer at The Joule Dallas. His most recent position was as executive chef at Azumi, the elevated Japanese restaurant in River Oaks District.

“Some of the most memorable restaurants where I’ve worked have been gathering places inside great hotels, and that’s the spirit and sense of place we’re bringing to Lila’s,” Battad said. “We want every dish to feel familiar yet unexpected.”

Behind the bar, mixologist Zach Smigiel is crafting an ingredient-forward cocktail program with a focus on seasonal flavors, complemented by a wine list, local beers, and nonalcoholic beverages.

The eatery is the latest endeavor by Rebees, the Houston-based hospitality management firm behind GreenStreet, and its second venture into the culinary world. Its first was Dallas restaurant Billy Can Can, led by executive chef and partner Matt Ford, who will also develop Lila’s menu alongside Battad. Lila’s is named after a French Bulldog owned by Rebees founder Tristan Simon.

This is the hospitality firm’s second endeavor into the culinary world, joining its Dallas restaurant Billy Can Can, led by executive chef and partner Matt Ford. Ford will also be developing Lila’s menu alongside Battad.

Tenants of GreenStreet, the three-block, mixed-use development, will be able to order meals and drinks from Lila’s directly to their offices through a proprietary app.

Rendering courtesy of Rebees

Lila's is the newest restaurant to arrive at GreenStreet, the three-block downtown complex.