BBQ brawl

Rising star Houston pitmaster brings the heat on Food Network BBQ competition show

Don Nguyen prepares a dish on BBQ Brawl.

Courtesy of Food Network

Houstonians will spot two familiar faces on the new season of Food Network’s BBQ Brawl reality cooking show. Chef Michelle Wallace (Gatlin’s BBQ) and Don Nguyen (Khói Barbecue) are among the nine contestants competing for the title of “Master of ‘Cue.”

CultureMap spoke to Nguyen before the first episode aired on Monday, May 9 about his time on the show. Although he still holds a full-time job as commodities trader, Nguyen has earned plenty of his attention for his Vietnamese-inspired barbecue pop-ups, including a CultureMap Tastemaker Awards nomination and an Eater-produced video with almost 1 million views on Youtube.

Of course, he couldn’t divulge how he fares in the competition, but those who have seen the first episode know that his fish sauce caramel chicken wings impressed the show’s three judge panel: barbecue legend Rodney Scott, Top Chef champion Brooke Williamson, and reality TV personality Carson Kressley.

“I saw the opportunity to do something new and step our of my comfort zone and try to showcase what Khói is about, marrying texas barbecue with Vietnamese-Asian flavors and techniques,” Nguyen says about his decision to participate in the show. “Just put myself out there and see how it goes.”

In the first episode, mentor Jet Tila selects Nguyen for his team, but, in a twist, Tila and fellow mentor Anne Burrell are forced to swap contestants when their team lose to Bobby Flay’s squad. Nguyen says he was open to working with any of the three.

As for his fellow contestants, don’t expect too much drama. “It was a really good atmosphere with good vibes. We all got along really well. Everybody brought something different to the table,” he says.

Nguyen expresses similar enthusiasm for Michelle Wallace. He says he didn’t know the Gatlin’s chef personally before the show, but they’ve become friendly since sharing the experience.]
“She’s awesome. She brings something different ot the table than what I do,” he says. “She bakes. It was a really welcome surprise to have the xperience with her.”

Nguyen recently revealed that he’s purchased a property north of downtown for a brick and mortar location of Khói. While it won’t open to the public for awhile, Nguyen plans to use the space for private events and tasting menu collaborations with guest chefs. Regardless, being on the show provides him with important experience as he begins the journey to making barbecue his profession.

“It gave me a lot of confidence in terms of what we’re trying to do with Khói in Houston in terms of marrying East and West, cooking with smoke, and honoring my Vietnamese heritage. It gave me a lot of confidence,’ he says.

“I came in to learn new things. I learned a lot. I accomplished my goal of growing as a person, as a cook, and as a barbecue fan.”

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New episodes of BBQ Brawl air Monday nights at 9 pm on Food Network or stream them on discovery+.

real-housewives barbecue

firing up Montrose

New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

Photo by Becca Wright

Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

“My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

“Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

“It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

“We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.