Sorry, Lewis

Houston's famous Starbucks at 'the end of the universe' flames out

Farewell, shuttered Starbucks.

Photo by Eric Sandler

One of Houston's most famous Starbucks locations appears to have served its last latte. The windows have been papered over and the signage has been removed from the coffee shop at 2029 W. Gray St., which is usually a sign that a business has shuttered.

Of course, coffee fans won't have to go far to get their Frappuccino fix. The Starbucks across the street at 2050 W. Gray St. remains open — and had a lengthy line at its drive-thru this morning.

A representative for Weingarten Realty, owner of the River Oaks Shopping Center, responded to CultureMap's request for comment about the closure with the following statement: "The Starbucks at 2029 W Gray has closed. The closing was planned prior to the COVID-19 pandemic. We cannot announce a new tenant at this time."

That Houston was home to a Starbucks across the street from another Starbucks inspired comedian Lewis Black's epic rant about having found the end of the universe. We've embedded it below to save anyone the trouble of googling "Lewis Black Starbucks."

If the sudden increased demand from the closing of its neighbor makes the still-open Starbucks too busy, fret not. Consider the Starbucks counter in the nearby Kroger at 1938 West Gray St. or the Starbucks at 2801 S. Shepherd Dr., which also has a drive-thru.

Admittedly, in a time of a global pandemic, the closure of a Starbucks may not seem like a major loss, especially when another Starbucks exists directly across the street, but the twin Starbucks — and the epic rant they inspired — fostered a certain amount of civic pride. An Instagram post about the closure by the Houstorian, James Glassman, has drawn over 700 likes and 100 comments as of Friday morning, with many people expressing sadness at the shuttering.

CultureMap has contacted both Starbucks and Weingarten Realty, owner of the River Oaks Shopping Center, to confirm the closure and inquire about the future of the space. We will update this article if we receive a response.

coffee closings

firing up Montrose

New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

Photo by Becca Wright

Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

“My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

“Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

“It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

“We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

Photo by Becca Wright

Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.