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    Tastemakers 2015

    What makes great restaurant service? Tastemakers nominees provide thoughtful touches

    Eric Sandler
    May 6, 2015 | 9:38 am

    When it comes to service, certain stock phrases indicate that a restaurant may be going through the motions or, even worse, indifferent to the satisfaction of their patrons.

    "Are you still working on that?"

    "My name is Jim, and I'll be taking care of you tonight."

    "My pleasure."

    If bad service is defined by false efforts at hospitality, then one sign of good service is sincerity.

    First of all, dining should never be "work," even if a few people are lucky enough to be able to make a living by dining out and sharing their experiences. While it's nice to put a name with a face, telling me your name is a false attempt to build a personal relationship where a professional one will suffice.

    The same attitude applies to "My pleasure" instead of "You're welcome" as a response to "thank you." We all take satisfaction in a job well done, but "my pleasure" is an attempt at false levity — particularly at the counter-service and corporate chain restaurants that train their employees to use it.

    If bad service is defined by false efforts at hospitality, then one sign of good service is sincerity. This manifests itself in a variety of ways, but, at its core, is expressed by sensation that the staff is truly excited that a diner has chosen to patronize their particular establishment.

    Team effort

    Yes, the entire staff, from hosts to servers to managers to valets, contributes to a diner's perception of service. Which is why the CultureMap Tastemaker Restaurant Service of the Year nominees are all restaurants, rather than individual servers or managers.

    Establishing and maintaining a culture that promotes a welcoming atmosphere and not saying no to any but the most absurd requests is a restaurant wide-ethos. Collectively, our nominees set a standard that more establishments in Houston should strive for.

    Collectively, our nominees set a standard that more establishments in Houston should strive for.

    Not surprisingly, most of our nominees are at the expensive end of the dining spectrum: from white-hot fine dining destination BCN Taste & Tradition to dual restaurant The Pass & Provisions, New American restaurant Triniti and all-conquering meat temple Pappas Bros. Steakhouse. After all, increased spending brings increased expectations, but these nominees still stand out with thoughtful touches and an air of comfort that reassures customers that the cost of a visit is, fundamentally, worth it.

    Uchi and Pax Americana are a little different in that the servers at both establishments act as guides to the menu. Their goal is to clarify unfamiliar ingredients and deliver diners both items they'll enjoy and maybe an item or two that will push a person's culinary boundaries. That both restaurants are consistently packed only underscores how important the front of house staff is in helping maintain order.

    Oxheart forgoes some of the traditional trappings of service; diners reset their own silverware from drawers embedded in the tables, for example. Also, customers only choose from either the vegetarian or non-vegetarian menus. Still, the staff offers important guidance when it comes to pairings and helps manage the sky-high expectations of patrons who have read the enthusiastic praise the restaurant has received since it opened three years ago. Also, few would deny the charm of one of chef Justin Yu's cooks explaining a dish he or she has spent hours preparing.

    Of course, our limit of seven nominees per category means some worthy nominees have been omitted. Classic Houston destinations like Brennan's and Tony's have taken excellent care of generations of Houstonians: many of whom couldn't imagine celebrating a birthday, anniversary or other special occasion anywhere else. Brasserie 19 and La Griglia deserve recognition for carefully managing the competing interests of the various members of Houston's social scene. Counter service spots like Blacksmith and Paulie's may lack servers, but they still understand the importance of good service.

    Now, if only we could get "Are you still working on that?" banished from our collective vocabulary.

    Provisions may be casual than The Pass, but the entire restaurant delivers a high level of service.

    Provisions of The Pass & Provisions
    Photo by © Julie Soefer/Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau
    Provisions may be casual than The Pass, but the entire restaurant delivers a high level of service.
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    spring branch speakeasy

    'Hidden' Houston bar offers private lockers for wine and whiskey lovers

    Eric Sandler
    Nov 6, 2026 | 4:00 pm
    Hidden Cellar Aye Candy bar speakeasy
    Photo by Hungry AF Media
    The Hidden Cellars opens on Saturday, November 7.

    A speakeasy within a speakeasy sounds like the premise of a Saturday Night Live sketch, but it’s really happening at a Spring Branch bar. Opening this Saturday, November 7, the Hidden Cellar is a new concept within Aye Candy.

    While Aye Candy’s focus is on cocktails, Hidden Cellar is devoted to wine and whiskey. With an entrance that’s literally hidden behind a painting in Aye Candy, Hidden Cellar offers an even more intimate environment than its host. The space features a long bar and lockers that will allow those who pay a fee to keep their favorite bottles stored for private consumption.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Nahima Ortega Houston Foodie | Houston Hot Spots | Cocktails (@houston5oclock)


    “The concept is designed to welcome both seasoned enthusiasts and guests simply interested in discovering something new,” a release states. “Whether enjoying a familiar whiskey, exploring a new wine, or asking the team for a recommendation, the experience emphasizes thoughtful selections, hospitality, and the pleasure of finding something worth returning for.”

    Cristy Velasco, her mother Mely, and brother Rafael opened Aye Candy in May 2024. Inspired by speakeasies in Mexico City, patrons enter the cocktail bar through a small candy shop at the entrance. Once they walk through the storefront, visitors will find a dimly lit lounge with banquettes for small groups and couches for larger gatherings.

    The Hidden Cellar will celebrate its grand opening with music by Tropical Muses beginning at 9 pm. Reservations are available by messaging the bar on Instagram.

    Hidden Cellar Aye Candy bar speakeasy

    Photo by Hungry AF Media

    The Hidden Cellars opens on Saturday, November 7.

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