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    Texas Style Recipes

    Houston "kitchen genius" helps top chef on Texas Food Bible cookbook

    Teresa Gubbins
    May 6, 2014 | 10:55 am

    Dallas chef Dean Fearing already has two cookbooks under his belt, but his new Texas Food Bible: From Legendary Dishes to New Classics ($30, Grand Central Life & Style) finds him at his most expansive and at ease.

    The book features more than 200 recipes, including trademark items such as his tortilla soup and "mop" sauce. Recipes include step-by-step methods and a "pantry" section defining Southwestern ingredients such as chiles and herbs, along with a list of sources.

    About his Granny Fearing's paper bag-shook fried chicken, he says, "I have been eating and serving this chicken for Sunday dinner my entire life."

    Texas Food Bible explores the aspects of Texas' culinary heritage that set the stage for Southwestern cuisine, while weaving in anecdotes from Fearing's family and childhood. His enthusiasm comes across on the page. For example, his definition of a habañero pepper begins, "Ooo-eee! These are hot little guys."

    The book also spotlights the people in his life. Enchiladas with jalapeño potatoes come from his assistant, Carmella. Pancakes are named for his sons, Jaxon and Campbell. About his Granny Fearing's paper bag-shook fried chicken, he says, "I have been eating and serving this chicken for Sunday dinner my entire life."

    He generously includes recipes from sous chef Eric Dreyer, such as the chicken enchilada casserole with green chile sauce; pastry chef Jill Bates; his Houston chef friend Robert Del Grande, whom he calls a "kitchen genius and magician"; and even chef Stephan Pyles.

    There's a chapter on side dishes that includes six corn recipes, fried green tomatoes and a detailed explanation with photos on how to make avocado fries. There are appealing bread and biscuit recipes, including Shiner Bock beer bread, Navajo fry bread and masa for tamales. Desserts are simple: cobblers, crisps, Texas sheet cake, pecan pie and fried peach pies — which he says are his all-time special desserts. On the back of the book is an acknowledgement from Wolfgang Puck.

    There are his obligatory nods to Dublin Dr Pepper, which he uses to braise short ribs, and Sonny Bryan's barbecue sauce, accompanied by a full page of photos from the original location on Inwood Road.

    But there are also unexpected offerings, such as the chapter on smoking and grilling, with a recipe for smoking brisket, including a tip on how to tell if it's done. He muses on the history of chili: "Rather than depend upon any one person's sense of history, I will place a bet down that chili was a stew that evolved from all kinds of cooks using the products they had on hand to create a filling meal," he says, before recalling the time he made it at the Mansion for Bill Cosby.

    He shares the original source of the famed tortilla soup: It was brought to the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek by then-owner Caroline Rose Hunt, who'd had it at the Argyle, a private club in San Antonio. "I don't know how many bowls of tortilla soup I've prepared, or how many different preparations I have eaten, but I can tell you the figure is in the thousands," he writes. "It remains my million-dollar baby!"

    -----------

    Dean Fearing will sign copies of his new cookbook at Neiman Marcus, 2600 S. Post Oak, level one (near the handbag department), on Wednesday (May 7) from 1 - 3 p.m. and at Brazos Bookstore, 2421 Bissonnet, at 7 p.m. He will be joined by chef Robert Del Grande who has a featured recipe in the book for Grilled Rib Eye Steaks with Backyard Steak Sauce.

    Dear Fearing, left, and Robert Del Grande are chefs and bandmembers.

    Dean Fearing and Robert Del Grande
    Courtesy photo
    Dear Fearing, left, and Robert Del Grande are chefs and bandmembers.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

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