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    Poitín on the ritz

    Irish restaurateur's anticipated Sawyer Yards spot debuts in 2 weeks

    Eric Sandler
    May 1, 2018 | 12:05 pm

    One of this year's most eagerly anticipated restaurants has set its opening date.

    Poitín, the ambitious all-day concept from Balls Out Burger owner Ian Tucker, will open to the public on May 14, the restaurant announced May 1. Located in the Sawyer Yards development at 2313 Edwards St., Poitín (put-cheen) takes much of its inspiration from The Exchequer, Tucker's award-winning gastropub in Dublin that's rated as one of the best cocktail bars in Ireland.

    “Poitín celebrates the diversity of Houston with its menu, its cocktail program and its overall unpretentious atmosphere,” Tucker said in a statement. “Just as the City of Houston opens its doors to immigrants from around the world, Poitín welcomes all-comers. As an immigrant myself, I have been embraced by the Houston community and have envisioned this restaurant to be a culinary embodiment of the city’s inclusive spirit.”

    At almost 10,000 square feet, the space seems fairly massive, but it's been divided into a 116-seat dining room, three different private rooms, and a 1,200-square-foot patio that looks towards the downtown skyline. Tucker tapped local firm Studio RED Architects to create the space's industrial look, while designer Erin Hicks (Helen Greek Food & Wine, El Big Bad) contributed "finishes and textures."

    Tucker has tapped top talent in both the dining room and the kitchen to bring Poitín to life. Executive chef Dominick Lee comes to the restaurant after a well-regarded stint at Kiran's, and pastry chef Dory Fung's resume includes time at Yauatcha, Aqui, and the Houston Country Club. In the dining room, general manager Todd Leveritt's (Museum Park Cafe, El Big Bad) staff includes beverage director Sarah Cuneo (Anvil, The Pastry War); bar manager Christa Havican (Goodnight Charlie's, Reserve 101); and sommelier Shannon Noelle Crow (13 Celsius).

    As he told CultureMap in February, Lee's menu takes its inspiration from his New Orleans childhood, time living in Houston, and "bold flavors from culinary capitals around the world." Dishes include slow-braised lamb neck with harissa and ras al hanout; Marble Ranch wagyu steak with chimichurri, papa rellanos, and dulce de leche carrots; and herb-infused ricotta ravioli with cherry tomatoes, spinach-parmesan cream, and hen of the woods mushrooms.

    Cuneo is working with Exchequer veteran Kevin Doherty on the cocktail menu. Expect at least a few drinks made with the restaurant's namesake spirit, which it describes as a kind of Irish moonshine that's only recently begun to be imported into the United States. Crow's wine list will feature natural, organic, and/or sustainable wines, many of which will be priced at $65 or less per bottle.

    Last year, Tucker told CultureMap that he wanted to create a space with amazing food and amazing drinks. In two weeks, diners will get to decide for themselves whether he's succeeded.

    Mussels a la plancha.

    Poitin mussels a la plancha
    Photo by Trevor Gerland
    Mussels a la plancha.
    news-you-can-eatopenings
    news/restaurants-bars

    Chris Cusack explains

    Houston bar owner speaks out about surprise arrest for health code violations

    Eric Sandler
    May 11, 2026 | 3:50 pm
    Chris Cusack
    Photo by Sergio Trevino
    Chris Cusack owns two locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse.

    Certainly one of the most unusual interactions between a restaurant and City of Houston officials took place on Wednesday, May 6 when Betelgeuse Betelgeuse owner Chris Cusack was arrested for health code violations at his location on Washington Avenue.

    News of the arrest spread quickly across social media over the weekend. Now, Cusack is ready to tell his side of the story.

    Cusack, whose time operating restaurants in Houston goes back more than 15 years to Down House and its affiliated restaurants such as Hunky Dory and D&T Drive Inn, tells CultureMap the problem began on Monday, May 4 when a health department inspector came to Betelgeuse Betelgeuse and asked to see the restaurant’s grease trap.

    The only problem is that location has never had a grease trap. Prior to becoming Betelgeuse Betelgeuse, it was Liberty Station, a pioneering bar in Houston’s craft beer and craft cocktail scenes. In the early days, Betelgeuse served food from a food truck. More recently, it prepares its food next door at The Bell and Crane. Cusack acknowledges he didn’t share this information with the inspector.

    “Usually I’m a charmer with the health department, but I was a little defensive. She kept asking me. I said, ‘ma’am, we don’t make food here,’” he explains. “The tone wasn’t my finest moment, but there was no name calling or anything like that. She said, ‘where does the food come from?’ I said, ‘it doesn’t matter where it comes from. It’s produced in a commercial kitchen.’”

    Cusack says he knew there would be a follow up, but he was shocked when the inspector returned two days later with more colleagues from the health department, TABC inspectors, and Houston Police Department officers.

    “I got somewhere between 21 and 25 citations,” Cusack says about the return visit. He got dinged for everything from graffiti in the bathroom to a missing Harris County tax stamp on the photo booth he leases from a vendor (it has both State of Texas and City of Houston stamps, Cusack says).

    One inspector told Cusack he needed a food dealer’s permit. He showed the inspector that a food dealer’s permit had been issued for the restaurant's address under the former food truck’s LLC but not to the LLC that operates Betelgeuse Betelgeuse. Cusack says he had renewed the food truck’s permit in March, but that wasn’t good enough for the inspector. In Cusack’s telling, he was arrested for not having the permit, since it was also flagged as missing in an inspection from October 2025. He's the only person he knows who has ever been arrested for a misdemeanor violation of the health code.

    Cusack says he spent 21 hours in the Harris County Jail. When he got out, he says he was contacted by a more senior official within the Health Department. Once Cusack confirmed he owned both LLCs, he was told he could reopen. Both locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse have been operating normally since Friday, May 8.

    Cusack maintains he never knew about the October 2025 inspection, which is why he renewed the food dealer’s permit for the food truck’s LLC rather than applying for one under Betelgeuse Betelgeuse’s LLC. “There’s no paper trail that shows I was given this information,” he says. “I did not get the email [from the Health Department].”

    As for why things got so out of hand, Cusack theorizes he was a victim of Houston Mayor John Whitemire’s crack down on “reckless behavior” on Washington Avenue and stepped up enforcement on bars generally that led to the temporary closure of near northside cocktail bar Rabbit’s Got the Gun.

    Cusack says he’s a “huge supporter” of efforts to reduce crimes like street racing, drug dealing, and sex trafficking along Washington and in its surrounding neighborhoods. Still, he feels targeting by the city for being impolite to a health inspector.

    He plans to fight both the arrest and the citations in court. “I want the charges dropped, and I want it expunged completely from my record. That’s the first thing, and I’m going to try very hard to do it,” he says.

    “That’s going to end up costing thousands of dollars just to deal with the sheer volume,” he adds.

    CultureMap contacted Mayor Whitmire’s office. A representative said the mayor was not aware of the situation and has no comment on an open investigation.

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    news/restaurants-bars

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